New York City: Momofuku Nishi (January 2017)




My spouse and I visited Momofuku Nishi for lunch on a Sunday afternoon in mid-January 2017. Nishi is open daily for lunch and dinner, although it closes for a few hours between meals. Because Nishi does not accept reservations for lunch, we arrived at opening time so that we could be seated immediately, but approximately 10 minutes later, patrons filled all tables and stools. The restaurant has no formal drinks bar, so there is little space to wait. Nishi accepts dinner reservations using the Open Table system, although you are reserving only a spot at a communal table or counter that you will share with other diners. (Nishi is not a place for a quiet romantic date, but it might be a fun place for a first date because of all the activity.)

In early 2016, chef/owner David Chang opened Nishi (which means “West” in Japanese) in Chelsea on Eighth Avenue near West 22nd Street. The space includes regular-heigh light-wood communal tables with backless stools in the front half of the space, with one high-top communal table (with high backless box-shaped stools) toward the middle, and two different bars on either side of the rear of the space that offer high stools for dining in proximity to the semi-open kitchen. Decorative accents are minimal, but include a painting of a woman in a bathing suit riding a huge bicycle. The overall simple décor and furnishings resembles other Momofuku restaurants. Chang also operates Momofuku Noodle Bar (see our review from January 2015), Ssam Bar (July 2013), Ko (May 2011 and May 2012), Ma Peche (July 2012 and January 2011), Fuku (February 2017), Fuku+, and Milk Bar in New York city, as well as other restaurants in Sydney Australia (August 2012), Las Vegas, Washington DC, and Toronto Canada. 

Nishi serves a unique blend of Asian-Italian-Korean-American cuisine. We shared the Impossible Burger as our starter; we wanted try this signature item, but neither of us wanted to “give up” our main course option for the plant-based burger. (Although the burger is vegetarian, it tastes like meat and even “bleeds” a bit when you cut or bite it.) As main courses, we ordered the jajangmyeon (pork sausage, chili pan mee, fried egg) and the butter noodle (Nishi’s take on cacao e pepe that uses a chickpea miso protein sauce to coat the pasta instead of traditional Pecorino, then tops it with freshly ground black pepper and a fried egg), accompanied by a side of the papaya salad (Nishi’s spin includes unripened papaya, miso, and toasted rice). For dessert, we shared a slice of the butterscotch Bundt cake topped with a buttermilk sour cream. Nishi has a no-tipping policy, so prices include service. 

We loved our lunch at Momofuku Nishi and we applaud the creativity of David Chang as he expands his restaurant empire!












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