New York City (July 2012)

My spouse and I visited New York City for the day (no overnight) in mid-July 2012. We enjoyed a beautiful lunch at Jean George, followed by drinks at the Campbell Apartments. Our main focus for visiting the city on this very hot day was to take a cooking class at David Chang's Ma Peche restaurant, where we had dined once previously.

  • Ma Peche Cooking Class Link to my review
  • Jean Georges Link to my review
  • Campbell Apartment Link to my review

  • Theatre: Much Ado About Nothing at the Pennsylvania Shakespeare Festival (July 2012)

     Much Ado About Nothing is a comedic play by William Shakespeare thought to have been written in 1598 and 1599, as Shakespeare was approaching the middle of his career. The play was included in the First Folio, published in 1623. Much Ado About Nothing is generally considered one of Shakespeare's best comedies because it combines elements of mistaken identities, love, robust hilarity with more serious meditations on honour, shame, and court politics.

    By means of "noting" (which, in Shakespeare's day, sounded similar to "nothing" as in the play's title,and which means gossip, rumour, and overhearing), Benedick and Beatrice are tricked into confessing their love for each other, and Claudio is tricked into rejecting Hero at the altar on the erroneous belief that she has been unfaithful. At the end, Benedick and Beatrice join forces to set things right, and the others join in a dance celebrating the marriages of the two couples.

    At Messina, a messenger brings news that Don Pedro, a prince from Aragon, will return that night from a successful battle, Claudio being among his soldiers. Beatrice, Leonato's niece, asks the messenger about Benedick and makes sarcastic remarks about his ineptitude as a soldier. Leonato explains that "There is a kind of merry war betwixt Signior Benedick and her."

    Upon the arrival of the soldiers, Leonato welcomes Don Pedro and invites him to stay for a month, Benedick and Beatrice resume their "merry war," and Pedro's illegitimate brother Don John is introduced. Claudio's feelings for Hero, Leonato's only daughter, are rekindled upon seeing her, and Claudio soon announces to Benedick his intention to court her. Benedick, who openly despises marriage, tries to dissuade his friend but Don Pedro encourages the marriage. Benedick swears that he will never get married. Don Pedro laughs at him and tells him that when he has found the right person he shall get married.

    A masquerade ball is planned in celebration of the end of the war, giving a disguised Don Pedro the opportunity to woo Hero on Claudio's behalf. Don John uses this situation to get revenge on his brother Don Pedro by telling young Claudio that Don Pedro is wooing Hero for himself. A furious Claudio confronts Don Pedro, but the misunderstanding is quickly resolved and Claudio wins Hero's hand in marriage.

    Meanwhile, Benedick disguises himself and dances with Beatrice. Beatrice proceeds to tell this "mystery man" that Benedick is "the prince's jester, a very dull fool." Benedick, enraged by her words, swears he will have revenge. Don Pedro and his men, bored at the prospect of waiting a week for the wedding, harbour a plan to match-make between Benedick and Beatrice. They arrange for Benedick to overhear a conversation in which they declare that Beatrice is madly in love with him but afraid to tell him; that their pride is the main impediment to their courtship. Meanwhile, Hero and her maid Ursula ensure Beatrice overhears them discuss Benedick's undying love for her. The tricks have the desired effect: both Benedick and Beatrice are delighted to think they are the object of unrequited love, and both accordingly resolve to mend their faults and reconcile.

    Meanwhile, Don Pedro's brother Don John, the "bastard prince", plots to prevent the wedding, embarrass his brother and wreak misery on Leonato and Claudio. He informs Don Pedro and Claudio that Hero is unfaithful, and arranges for them to see John's associate Borachio enter her bedchamber where he has an amorous liaison (actually with Margaret, Hero's chambermaid). Claudio and Don Pedro are taken in, and Claudio vows to humiliate Hero publicly.

    At the wedding the next day, Claudio denounces Hero before the stunned guests and storms off with Don Pedro. Hero faints. Her humiliated father Leonato expresses the wish that she would die. The presiding friar intervenes, believing Hero to be innocent. He suggests the family fake Hero's death in order to extract the truth and Claudio's remorse. Prompted by the day's harrowing events, Benedick and Beatrice confess their love for each other. Beatrice then asks Benedick to slay Claudio as proof of his devotion, since he has slandered her kinswoman. Benedick is horrified and at first, denies her request. Leonato and his brother Antonio blame Claudio for Hero's apparent death and challenge him to a duel. Benedick then does the same.

    Luckily, on the night of Don John's treachery, the local Watch apprehended Borachio and his ally Conrade. Despite the comic ineptness of the Watch (headed by constable Dogberry, a master of malapropisms), they have overheard the duo discussing their evil plans. The Watch arrest the villains and eventually obtain a confession, informing Leonato of Hero's innocence. Though Don John has fled the city, a force is sent to capture him. Claudio, stricken with remorse at Hero's supposed death, agrees to her father's demand that he marry Antonio's daughter, "almost the copy of my child that's dead" and carry on the family name.

    At the wedding, the bride is revealed to be Hero, still living. Claudio is overjoyed. Beatrice and Benedick, prompted by their friends' interference, finally and publicly confess their love for each other. As the play draws to a close, a messenger arrives with news of Don John's capture – but Benedick proposes to postpone his punishment to another day so that the couples can enjoy their new-found happiness. Don Pedro is lonely because he hasn't found love. Thus Benedick gives him the advice "Get thee a wife."

     Link to the review by The Morning Call here











    New York City: Ma Peche (July 2012)

    Cooking class at má pêche: Next Time I Eat Homemade Pasta, I Will Appreciate It Fully
    My spouse and I participated in a noodle making class in the Balcony Bar of má pêche at the Chambers Hotel in July of 2012. For $75 per person, we learned how to make two types of noodles (alkaline, which uses no eggs, and a more traditional egg noodle). We booked our tickets through Eventbrite using a link on the má pêche website. The restaurant offered at least three classes this summer: the noodle class was the second (the first was a dashi and kimchi class, and the third was a bartending class). Class size is limited to about 16 people, seated at four small tables and the bar. Although the tables are extremely small, and space is quite confined, they made the close quarters work well. We watched two chefs from David Chang's test kitchen, Dan Felder  and Veronica Trevizo, make and work the dough and then incorporate other ingredients to create delicious dishes. We were encouraged to walk around to get a better look at the ingredients and process, and we were invited to touch the dough if we wished. We feasted on two dishes that we watched the chef make - one Asian dish with noodles and dashi and one Italian dish with hand-torn pasta. Each course was complemented by a tasting of three different beverages - one wine, one beer, and one sake. Momofuku Ko's beverage director, Beth Lieberman, was knowledgeable and informative. Hailey, the woman running the class/restaurant (not the chef) was very welcoming and enthusiastic. We received a thank you note afterwards for participating in the class, which was a nice touch. 


    Ma Pêche  at the Chambers Hotel: Excellent Casual Lunch
    My spouse and I visited Ma Pêche (whose name means “Mother Peach”) for lunch in mid-January 2011. We had been hearing great things about owner David Chang, and this was one of his properties at which it seemed easy to secure a reservation (via Open Table, unlike how you reserve for his other restaurants) and it was also near our sightseeing goal. The restaurant itself is on the basement level (so no windows, although that didn’t bother), with a bar on the street level/positioned on a balcony overlooking the dining room. The menu featured both a la carte and prix-fixe offerings (3 courses for $25). The prix-fixe menu didn’t seem like much of a deal; the a la carte menu was reasonable enough, and the prix-fixe menu didn’t offer the items that we most wanted to try. This is a casual restaurant; no tablecloths, not even silverware place settings on the table (chopsticks are provided in a glass in the center of the table), but both the restaurant and the menu really “fit the bill” for what we wanted on the day that we visited. (We’ve since been to Chang’s Momofuku Ko, which was one of the most memorable meals we’ve ever eaten.) We loved all the items that we tried. From the Petite Assiette section of the menu, we ordered summer rolls (with pork, lettuce, hoisin) and venison and pork terrine (with pickled vegetables and violet mustard). From the Sandwichere section, we ordered duck confit banh mi (with liver, hoisin, pickled vegetables). From the Poisson & Viande section, we ordered brisket from Niman Ranch (with rice noodles, cabbage, herbs). All items were priced between $9.00 and $15.00, which we felt was accurate for the quality and quantity. The restaurant offers no dessert options; visit Milk Bar on the street level if you need something sweet afterward. From some reviews that I’ve read online, people seem to pan this restaurant in favor of Chang’s others, but we wouldn’t hesitate to return if it fit into our schedule. 










    New York City: Jean-Georges (July 2012)

    My spouse and I dined at Jean Georges for Sunday lunch in July 2012. We had looked forward to eating at this Michelin 3-star restaurant for years, but we were only satisfied (not awed) with our experience. Our Sunday lunch reservation was not difficult to obtain, made easier by booking through Open Table. When we arrived at 11:30 am for our 11:45 am reservation, we were told that they did not begin seating until precisely 11:45, and we were directed to wait in either the Trump Hotel lobby (which was smallish and very busy, probably because it was check-out time), the bar at Nougatine (which was full), or the outdoor patio at Nougatine (which looked lovely; however, the weather was steamy, hot, and humid). We elected to wait in the hotel lobby, along with two other couples who were also waiting to be seated. We weren't offered drinks as we sat in the lobby; however, someone did come to fetch us at 11:45 when our table was ready, which was a pleasant surprise; we thought that we would be forgotten and have to present ourselves again to the hostess desk. The Jean Georges restaurant is attractive, with stark white modern decor, high ceilings, and three walls of windows; however, you must traipse through casual "little sister" restaurant Nougatine to enter; on Sunday at 11:45, it seemed that all the hotel guests were present having breakfast. The doors between the two restaurants remained open the entire time of the lunch service, so the Jean Georges setting was less than serene. To compound things, we were seated at the front corner of the room, and although the table position gave us a great view of Jean Georges, it also allowed the noise and commotion from Nougatine to color our dining experience. A service stand was positioned right next to our table, so servers were constantly stopping there to enter orders and pick up/put back wine bottles and water pitchers. I'm not sure that there is an ideal table in this space; several service stands surround the room, and some of the tables are a bit close together. One table for two was tucked into an alcove; a nice, private spot except for the table immediately fronting it. The dining room appears to hold approximately 50 or so guests, at tables for parties of 2, 4, and 6. Two menu options are available for lunch - a 6-course tasting for $128 (set menu without choices), or a 2-course menu for $38 (with several choices from each of three categories); with the 2-course menu, additional course are available for $19 and dessert is available for $12. For the 2-course menu, certain dishes such as egg caviar, foie gras, white asparagus, and scallops come with a supplemental price. We chose the 6-course tasting menu, and were mostly happy. We (and all diners, even those with the 2-course menu) started with a 3-part amuse-bouche of a shooter of popcorn soup, a cube of marinated watermelon topped with feta cheese, and a sort of pickle slice. Next came an egg custard topped with caviar and complemented by a basil sauce. We also dined on yellowtail ribbons with avocado and radish, ravioli with peas and tomatoes, skate with spring vegetables, and rack of lamb with a chili sauce. All the dishes were beautifully presented, and the ingredients were delicious; however, the accompaniments for the skate and the lamb were absolutely redundant in both appearance and taste. The cherry dessert tasting  was amazing, with four components - a sort of deconstructed black forest cake, cherries jubilee, crème brûlée, and sorbet. Following dessert, we received chocolate mignardises and the Jean Georges signature homemade vanilla bean marshmallows. Service was acceptable, with some servers clearly having a better handle on things than others. One of our wait staff appeared to just be learning, and she cleared our bread plates and glasses much sooner than they should have been. We felt that the beverage service was a bit slow, and our glasses were often empty (which is surprising - if they had offered more drinks, they would have made more money). Our lunch was not perfect, but it was a good meal with decent service at a fair price (when you compare its price with the other Michelin 3-stars in town like Per Se and Masa).






    New York City: Campbell Apartment ((July 2012)

    My spouse and I visited this somewhat hidden bar in Grand Central Terminal in July of 2012. The bar is located in the former office of Vanderbilt financier John Campbell. The property is owned by Hospitality Holdings, who also own the bars called the Empire Room, the World Bar, the Carnegie Club, and Bookmarks, as well as Madison & Vine (Madison & Vine is a full-service restaurant that participates in the Open Table reservation system). The brass plaque outside the steps leading into the Campbell Apartment states that the hours are from 3:00 pm on; however, the website and the menus state that the bar opens at 12:00 noon. Although the brass plaque is attractive and probably costly to replace, I would think it would be a worthwhile investment because the current sign doesn't list the correct hours. Another discrepancy - the website mentions that the Campbell Terrace (outdoor seating in a sort of porte-cochere facing Vanderbilt Avenue) is only open on weekdays from 2:00 pm on, but it was open on the Sunday afternoon that we visited. We had heard about this bar/lounge for years, but after seeing it featured by Anthony Bourdain in one of the TV shows, it moved up on our "to visit" list. As other reviewers have mentioned, the drinks are approximately $15 to $18 each, which is an expensive but not uncommon price for a cocktail in New York City. I had a Flapper's Delight (champagne, papaya, and amaretto), which was garnished with an orange curl and served in a champagne glass. It tasted fine, but ordinary; I had expected the papaya to make it taste more exotic. My spouse ordered a Kentucky Ginger, which was more tasty and unusual, served in a rocks glass and garnished with a sprig of rosemary. As for the surroundings, we visited on a hot, summer mid-afternoon, and we felt that it was very dark inside. Lighting is limited to a few lamps on the bar and some wall sconces positioned evenly around the room. There are no ceiling lights except for a very few tiny lights in the upper balcony area, which covers less than 1/3 of the main room. It didn't appear that the lighting could be increased as the daylight decreased, leading us to believe that it would be extremely dark in the evening. The ceilings are enormously high (and beautifully and intricately decorated), so what little light is available is quickly diffused. It was quite warm inside the bar room; a huge industrial fan blew warm air from near the large fireplace (filled with an antique safe) to compensate, but it merely moved the air around rather than cool it. We first tried to sit at the end of the bar, feeling that it was more atmospheric than the lounge seating, but the bar stools were incredibly uncomfortable. They looked fine and were made of leather, but they tipped uncomfortably forward. We instead sat on one of the sofa/chair/cocktail table groupings, although that furniture wasn't overly comfortable. In keeping with the Prohibition/speakeasy theme of the venue, the waitress was dressed demurely in a longish black skirt, cardigan sweater, and pearls, and she spoke with a Southern accent, calling us y'all several times (we weren't sure if the accent was real or affected). A small menu of appetizer-type food is available. Although we wouldn't rush back here, it was fun to visit once, and now we can cross it off our "to do" list.





    New York City (July 2012)

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    Restaurants:

    New York City: Beer Authority (July 2012)

    My spouse and I stopped in at this restaurant for drinks before departing Manhattan from the Port Authority Bus Terminal. It is located across the street, so it provides a convenient place for a quick drink or snack upon departing or arriving in the city. Prior to this restaurant opening, the only acceptable alternative was the Heartland Brewery (with a location in PABT as well as elsewhere in the city). The Beer Authority provides three levels/dining options – the first/ground/street level contains a fairly small bar and an elevator to the second floor. The second floor contains lots of seating options – high-top tables, regular tables, and a long bar. There are plenty of good views of 8th Avenue and West 40th Street from most of the tables. The third floor contains a rooftop lounge with tables and umbrellas, but it was far too hot on the day that we visited to even venture up there. We only had drinks on the day that we visited, but the menu seemed interesting with better-than-average pub food.



    New York City: Babbo (July 2012)

    My spouse and I ate lunch at Babbo on the July Fourth holiday 2012. We had tried a few times in years past to eat at Babbo, but we never got more than a continuously busy signal when we called to make a reservation. Now things are different for two reasons – diners have more choices on when to dine because Babbo is open for lunch, and you can use the Open Table reservation system to make a booking on-line rather than having to call on a specific date at a specific time and take your place in the on-hold queue. The ground-floor restaurant space is attractive, with a nice-size bar towards the front and tables towards the back. There’s a grand staircase toward the back of the restaurant, but I’m not sure what is upstairs. It may be more dining room, but on the day that we lunched, even the tables on the ground floor were not fully occupied. Babbo is better equipped to handle small parties (tables of 2 or 4) but can accommodate up to 6 people at one table, I believe. We didn’t have the greatest table – it was all the way in the back of the restaurant nearest the doorway to the restrooms and kitchen; however, it did provide a good vantage point from which to see the entire first-floor dining room. Our reservation time was 11:30, but Babbo didn’t open/unlock the doors until exactly that time (no possibility of having a drink at the bar first), so there were lots of customers waiting around on the street who all wished to be seated at the same time. Service was acceptable, but not great, although there were many wait people present. It seemed like the larger parties (and parties imbibing in bottles of wine) received preferential/better service than smaller parties. We were encouraged to try the lunch tasting menu because it was our first time dining at Babbo; however, we declined because the items did not interest us as much as some of the items on the a la carte menu. The set tasting menu would have been a better “deal”, with 4 courses for $49. Even though we didn’t participate in the lunch tasting, we each still ordered four courses each, with the total amounting to much more than that per person; however, we felt that we tried the dishes that really appeal to us rather than what the restaurant wanted to serve. We would loved to have been able to try the multi-course pasta tasting or the traditional tasting menus, but those are available only at dinnertime. For antipasti, we ordered the bufala mozzarella with coppa salumi and the market beans Milanese topped with a duck egg (both fantastic!). For our second course, we each ordered a pasta dish – gnocchi and ravioli (again, both excellent), and for our entrées, we ordered the turkey porchetta and the mixed grill, which contained a tiny lamb chop, sweetbreads, and tongue. The porchetta was a hit, but the mixed grill was a bit of a miss. For dessert, we ordered a saffron panna cotta accompanied by rhubarb sauce and rhubarb sorbet, which was underwhelming despite Babbo employing a well-know pastry chef (Gina DePalma). The food was terrific, so it was the service that needed improvement. A long time elapsed between our courses (it took more than 3 hours for our lunch – more acceptable on a holiday, but unacceptable during a business day), and our drink glasses were continually empty. This particularly surprised us, because restaurants tend to make a lot of money from alcohol, but our waiter did little to increase our bill. Overall, a pleasant dining experience – fortunately the food was good enough to overcome the lackluster service.