Hudson River Valley (May 2010)

We had a great weekend in the Hudson River Valley! There's so much to see that we already know we'll take another trip sometime in the future.

On our first day, we visited West Point before crossing the Hudson to see Vanderbilt and Vassar. Ate lunch at the Beechtree Grill in Poughkeepsie, just off the Vassar campus. It didn't look like much from the outside, but the food and service were very good. We ended up staying in Tarrytown at the Springhill Suites, which suited our purposes just fine. (Although we cancelled the Tarrytown House Estate, we did drive around the property, and that would have been a fine choice.) Dinner at Chiboust was quite good, particularly the desserts.

 

On our second day, we visited Kykuit, which was lovely. If you have just one mansion to see, this should be it! But definitely make a reservation, and try to visit early in the day. Tours seem to sell out quickly (maximum of 18 people per group), and parking (at Phillipsburg Manor) is at a premium. (You are bused from Phillipsburg to Kykuit.) We ate Sunday brunch in Tarrytown at Sweet Grass Grill, which was delicious, and the outdoor patio tables are a nice place to dine. Afterwards, we visited Union Church to see the Chagall and Matisse windows, and then toured Blue Hill at Stone Barns. We ate dinner at Blue Hill in the evening, but because jacket and tie are requested for men, we thought it best to do our tour of the gardens, greenhouses, and livestock pens in more casual dress. Our meal at Blue Hill was the most unique we've ever had in terms of ingredients. Presentation wasn't overly fussy, but rather rustic and natural. The service wasn't as good as I had expected, but overall it was worth the cost and the effort (reserving two months in advance). My best advice for Blue Hill is to take an early reservation--it takes 3 to 4 hours for a full meal, depending on whether you choose 5 or 8 courses, and we recount at least 10 amuse bouches were served before any of the actual courses were placed in front of us. Bring your appetite!

On our last morning, we visited Lyndhurst, which was worthwhile, but hard to stand up to Kykuit, even though it was very different in style. We probably should have also stopped at Washington Irving's Sunnyside before departing for home, but at that point we were somewhat "mansioned out" as a previous poster thought we might be.

All in all, it was a great 3-day weekend, and next time we'll move a little farther north to see the mid and/or upper Hudson region.

 

Hotel:

• Springhill Suites Tarrytown Link to my review

 Restaurants:

• Beech Tree Grill Link to my review
• Chiboust Bistro and Bakery Link to my review
• Blue Hill at Stone Barn Link to my review
• Sweetgrass Cafe Link to my review

Activities:

• West Point
• Kykuit
• Union Church of Pocantico Hills
• Lyndhurst

Hudson River Valley: Beech Tree Grill (May 2010)

My spouse and I dined at the Beech Tree Grill for lunch in late May 2010. The Beech Tree Grill, located directly across from the Vassar campus, offers an intimate, but pricier, dining experience. Open for dinner every night and for brunch Tuesday through Sunday, the restaurant has emerged as the classiest establishment in walking distance from Vassar. Upon entering the restaurant, the pub-like atmosphere is they first thing you’ll notice. Brewing paraphernalia, English tavern signs and elaborate mirrors adorn exposed red brick and hunter green walls, while small candles provide muted lighting. A large bar with a 10-beer tap is situated at the right of the restaurant and small tables fill up the rest of the small rectangular space. The restaurant is usually filled with Poughkeepsie locals and verbose academics on the weekends, so the volume of the cozy space can become quite overwhelming. This inviting restaurant has recently been taken over by Aaron Foglietta, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, who has designed a constantly changing and consistently strong menu. The choices range from steak to mussels to pasta, all inventively prepared. Decadent sautéed tiger shrimp, Roma tomatoes and fresh mozzarella tossed with pesto and pasta, priced at $17.75, is just one of the many sense-tickling items on the dinner menu. For brunch, poached eggs, smoked Norwegian salmon and fresh hollandaise served on an English muffin, priced at $11.75, is the perfect meal to start a weekend. A large selection of home-made desserts and an extensive wine and beer lists complement the innovative menu. With friendly and knowledgeable waiters, a warm atmosphere and stellar food, the Beech Tree Grill is a little gem worthy of celebratory dinners and family brunches.

Hudson River Valley: Blue Hill at Stone Barn (May 2010)

Although I haven't eaten at the location in Manhattan, I did eat at the one in Pocantico Hills (Hudson River Valley near Tarrytown) last weekend. I'm not sure how similar or different they are--the one outside the city is on a farm, so you have the advantage of touring the pastures, gardens, and greenhouses to really see where your food is coming from, but I would imagine the menu selections and format are similar. Both my spouse and I agreed that it was the most unique meal we've ever had, although not the best meal we've ever had (those accolades would go to either Per Se or The French Laundry). Blue Hill was half the price, though, so it's hard to be disappointed, and if I had to say anything negative, it would be that they are serving a larger number of people per day/night, so the service is just a tad lacking, or inconsistent perhaps (sometimes we had several servers at our table, and at other times they were nonexistent). You have your choice of a 5-course tasting menu or an 8-course menu, so plan on a lengthy dinner. My other somewhat negative comment is that the servers didn't describe each dish adequately--they mentioned the main ingredient, but not the minor components, and I wanted to know everything since the tastings were completely blind.

In spring of 2004, Blue Hill at Stone Barns opened at Stone Barns. The restaurant sources many ingredients from Stone Barns fields and pastures. Its executive chef and co-owner is Dan Barber, who also owns Blue Hill in New York City. Stone Barns' property was once part of Pocantico, the Rockefeller estate. The stone barns themselves were commissioned by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. to be a dairy farm. The complex fell into disuse during the 1950s and was mainly used for storage. In the 1970s, agricultural activity resumed when David Rockefeller's wife Peggy began a successful cattle breeding operation. Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture was created by David Rockefeller, his daughter Peggy Dulany, and their associate James Ford as a memorial for Peggy Rockefeller, who died in 1996. Stone Barns opened to the public in May 2004. The farm at Stone Barns Center is a four-season operation with approximately 6 acres used for vegetable production. It uses a six-year rotation schedule in the field and greenhouse beds. The farm grows 200 varieties of produce year-round, both in the outdoor fields and gardens and in the 22,000-square-foot minimally heated greenhouse that capitalizes on each season’s available sunlight. Among the crops suitable for the local soil and climate are rare varieties such as celtuce, suiho, hakurei turnips, New England Eight-Row Flint seed corn and finale fennel. The farm uses no pesticides, herbicides or chemical additives, although compost is added to the soil for enrichment. The farm has a six-month composting cycle using manure, hay, and scraps from Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Stone Barns Center raises chickens, turkeys, geese, sheep, pigs and bees suited to the local ecosystem. The livestock farmers try to raise animals in a manner consistent with the animals' evolutionary instincts. The chickens, turkeys, sheep and geese are raised on pastures kept healthy and productive through carefully managed rotational grazing. The sheep and pigs’ bedding packs are regularly turned and composted. Farmers who raise animals in this fashion are frequently called "grass farmers" because there is so much emphasis on the health of the pastures. Strategies for maintaining the pastures include intensive paddock management so the grazed area has ample time to recover and provide a natural refuge for birds and other wildlife, essential for the maintenance of ecological balance.

Hudson River Valley: Chiboust Bistro and Bakery (May 2010)

My spouse and I dined at Chiboust Bistro and Bakery for dinner in late May 2010. Chiboust opened in Tarrytown in 2004 and quickly became popular for its imaginative Mediterranean-inspired menu. Jill Rose, the chef and owner, was especially loved for her desserts, which were announced by a huge refrigerated display case at the entrance to the restaurant. The space is a rectangular storefront with soaring ceilings and an exposed brick wall — other walls sport bold purple, mustard and red paint. Mirrors expand the sense of space, and candles at each table give it a bit of romance. A two-sided bar has seats for 13, and there are some tables at the front of the restaurant. What sticks out in our mind is that my spouse was drinking beer, and when they ran out of the kind that he initially chose, the waiter took it upon himself to select a comparable selection in style, however at a much higher price (which he didn't mention until we received the bill).

Hudson River Valley: Sweetgrass Cafe (May 2010)

My spouse and I dined at Sweetgrass Cafe for brunch in late May 2010. Sweet Grass Grill is a casual restaurant serving local and seasonal food right in the heart of Tarrytown. With relationships with about a dozen local farms, the menu at Sweet Grass Grill varies week to week depending on the daily harvests. Expect seasonal soups and salads and a changing roster of entrees like our signature baby roast chicken and the freshest sustainably-raised fish. The bar, carved out of a single fallen oak tree from the Rockefeller Preserves, features a great cocktail menu, micro brews on draft and bottle, and many wines by the glass. The restaurant offers both indoor and outdoor seating, and we enjoyed our meal on the front sidewalk.

Hudson River Valley: Tarrytown SpringHill Suites (May 2010)

My spouse and I stayed at the Springhill Suites by Marriott Tarrytown in late May 2010. Newly redesigned in the historic Hudson Valley minutes from Manhattan, SpringHill Suites Tarrytown is an long term stay hotel that offers style and space at a moderate price. This all-studio suite Tarrytown hotel is designed to fit your lifestyle with suites that are 25% larger than average hotel rooms and including areas for working, dining & sleeping. Enjoy luxurious bedding, ergonomic work desk & functional granite countertop area with mini-fridge, microwave, coffee maker & bar sink. Our free shuttle provides transportation to local companies including Siemens, IBM, Carl Zeiss, PepsiCo, Phillips, Bayer, Westcon & Schott. Also nearby are Pace and Fordham Universities, West Point Military Academy, Phelps Memorial, and Blythedale Children's Hospital. Spend free time at historic attractions including Lyndhurst, KyKuit, Philipsburg Manor and Sunnyside Estates. Guests enjoy our new breakfast buffet. Favorite beverages & pub-style light fare are offered in the Lobby Bar.

Philadelphia: Le Bec Fin (May 2010)

Le Bec-Fin first opened in 1970. Owner and founder Georges Perrier named the restaurant after the French colloquialism for "fine palate". The restaurant had been rated America's finest French restaurant, and the Mobil Travel Guide traditionally awarded it five stars. Perrier sold Le Bec-Fin to one of its former managers, Nicolas Fanucci, in February 2012, and Fanucci reopened Le Bec-Fin in June; however, the restaurant closed again in June 2013. (Master chef Walter Abrams, formerly of the restaurant French Laundry, led the kitchen during the Fanucci ownership, stressing locally-grown ingredients and fresh produce.) Perrier trained at La Pyramide in Vienne, France. He moved to the USA in 1967 at the age of 21, and started working in Philadelphia in the late 1960s. After its opening in 1970 at 1312 Spruce St. (Perrier was 23), Le Bec-Fin soon established a reputation as Philadelphia's finest restaurant . By 1981, Le Bec-Fin was known as the leader of the "Philadelphia restaurant revolution". The restaurant moved to its current location on Walnut St. in 1983. Esquire described it as the best French restaurant in America and a 1994 Condé Nast reader's poll ranked it as the best restaurant in the country. Perrier's cuisine favors traditional French ingredients with high quality produce from throughout the world The wine list favored selections from the borders of France and some standouts from the new world. Perrier made extensive changes to the restaurant after the Mobil Travel Guide reduced it to four star status in the 2001 Mobil Travel Guide. The interior was remodeled, the wine list expanded, and Perrier relinquished command of his restaurant to the head chef. Said Perrier to his staff, "Change everything but the chandeliers." In the 2003 guide, the fifth star was restored. In 2008, Le Bec-Fin gave up its 5-star rating in favor of a more relaxed atmosphere. This loss dropped the number of American 5-star restaurants to 16. The change to a more relaxed atmosphere includes à la carte dining as opposed to a fixed price menu with strict seating schedule. In January 2009, the French government awarded Perrier the Legion d'Honneur.