London and Paris (October 2002)

Hotels:
Restaurants:
London:
  • London: Galileos Link to my review
  • London: Greencoat Boy Link to my review
  • London: Jason’s Lace Link to my review
  • London: Pizza Hut Link to my review

  • Paris:
    Activities:
    • xx
    • Louvre
    • Paris Disneyland
      I'm another HUGE Disney parks fan, and I would also say "Pass". If you've been to DisneyWorld in Florida, Paris Disneyland will pale in comparison. On the other hand, if you have only seen Disneyland in California, you may be more satisfied. But I still regret spending the day at Paris Disneyland at the expense of seeing something more uniquely French (our alternate choice for an out-of-the city day trip was Monet's Giverny, so I REALLY regret it). You don't say whether you have children; obviously if you do, that will affect your decision because it will make your children happy. There's also a large (high-end) outlet mall near Paris Disneyland, so if you are a shopper, you could also do that in combination with the park. But I still say forgo that Disney experience.












    London: Crowne Plaza St. James (October 2002)

    My spouse and I spent three nights at the Crowne Plaza London St. James Buckingham Gate in early October 2002. The Crowne Plaza London St.James has a rich history, built in 1897 when it provided exclusive services for visiting aristocrats and nobles. Today it is a beautifully renovated Victorian building, housing elegantly styled bedrooms and luxury apartments. Adjacent to the Crowne Plaza London St.James is 51 Buckingham Gate, which is under the same ownership and management. This comprises 82 suites and apartments with all the comforts and facilities of your own home, but which also benefit from full five-star hotel services. Additionally, the hotel offers an award-winning courtyard garden and health club and spa. Close to Buckingham Palace, The Houses of Parliament, the London Eye, and Victoria Station, the hotel is well positioned for business and leisure needs. The hotel boasts three excellent restaurants. Bistro 51 provides British and European cuisine, the Michelin Starred Indian restaurant Quilon serves south coastal Indian cuisine, and Bank Westminster has a modern British menu. Victoria and St. James's Park Tube stations are conveniently located nearby, allowing easy access to the airports and all areas of London. Victoria Station is also served by mainline rail services, including an express train to Gatwick Airport and regular services to the Channel ports. Waterloo Station and the Eurostar are ten minutes away by taxi or Tube. The area is also well-served by buses from Victoria Street or Victoria Station. In addition, a nationwide network of coaches runs from Victoria Coach Station in Buckingham Palace.




    Theatre: Mamma Mia in London (October 2002)



    Mamma Mia! (promoted as Benny Andersson and Bjorn Ulvaeus' Mamma Mia!) is a jukebox musical based on the songs of ABBA, a Swedish pop/dance group active from 1972 to 1982 and one of the most popular international pop groups of all time, topping the charts again and again in Europe, North and South America and Australia ABBA Group members Benny Andersson and Bjorn Ulvaeus wrote and sang the group’s songs, with additional vocals sung by their wives, Agnetha Fältskog and Anni-Frid Lyngstad. The group’s name ABBA derives from the first letter in each of their names. The title of the musical is taken from the group's 1975 chart-topper "Mamma Mia". The Broadway show closed in September 2015 after a 14-year run, making it the ninth longest-running show in Broadway history. 

    The musical includes such hits as "Super Trouper", "Lay All Your Love on Me", "Dancing Queen", "Knowing Me, Knowing You", "Take a Chance on Me", "Thank You for the Music", "Money, Money, Money", "The Winner Takes It All", "Voulez-Vous", "SOS" and the title track. Over 60 million people have seen the show, which has grossed $2 billion worldwide since its 1999 debut. A film adaptation starring Meryl Streep, Colin Firth, Pierce Brosnan, Amanda Seyfried, and Christine Baranski was released in July 2008, with a sequel/prequel to followin in summer 2018.

    Act I

    Before the curtain rises, the orchestra starts playing the overture, which is a montage of instrumental versions of some of ABBA's hit songs.

    On the Greek island of Kalokairi, 20-year-old Sophie is preparing to marry her fiancé, Sky. She wants her father to walk her down the aisle ("Prologue") but does not know who he is. Sophie discovers her mother's old diary and finds entries which describe intimate dates with three men (Sam Carmichael, Bill Austin [Anderson in the film version], and Harry Bright) ("Honey, Honey"). Sophie believes one of these men is her father and, three months before her nuptials, sends each an invitation to her wedding, writing in her mother's name, Donna, without letting her unsuspecting mother know
    The day before the wedding, Donna begins receiving guests at her taverna. The first to arrive are her long-term best friends, Tanya, a rich woman who has been married and divorced three times, and Rosie, an unmarried, carefree woman. The trio used to comprise a girl group called "Donna and the Dynamos". The three women catch up and talk about their lives ("Money, Money, Money").
    Later that day, Sophie's three possible fathers arrive: Sam (an American architect), Harry (a British banker), and Bill (originally an Australian writer and adventurer, Swedish in the film, and currently American in New York and on tour). Sophie convinces them not to tell Donna that she invited them ("Thank You for the Music"). Donna is surprised to see her ex-lovers ("Mamma Mia") and leaves in tears. Donna, crying, explains to Tanya and Rosie the situation, and they cheer her up ("Chiquitita"). Tanya and Rosie try to convince Donna that she can still be the girl she once was ("Dancing Queen").
    Sophie had hoped she would know her father the moment she saw him but is now only confused. She tries to tell her fiancé, Sky, how she feels without confessing what she has done. Sky tells her he will be the only man she ever needs ("Lay All Your Love on Me").

    At Sophie's hen party, Donna and the Dynamos don their old costumes and perform a song, "(Super Trouper)". Sam, Bill, and Harry accidentally walk in on the party, and the guests persuade them to stay ("Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!").

    Sophie first pulls Sam out of the room to talk to him. After he asks why he is there, she is overcome with guilt and goes to talk to Harry, instead. But Harry asks if Sophie's father is at the party, and she tells him the whole truth.

    Lastly, she draws Bill aside to talk with him. She learns that Bill has an aunt Sophia who left all her money to Donna's family. Bill learns that Donna built the taverna with money she inherited from a friend she lived with when Sophie was a baby; that friend was Bill's aunt. They both think this means he is her father.

    Sophie asks Bill to walk her down the aisle, but Bill wants to discuss it first with Donna. This has been her secret, after all. But no one knows yet that even Donna does not know who the father is, because she slept with the three men in such swift succession. Sophie insists they must not tell Donna anything ("The Name of the Game") and finally, Bill agrees.

    Afterward, everybody crashes the hen party (including the guys from the stag party). Eddie, a stripper, has an erotic yet tasteful nude scene. During the striptease, Sam pulls Sophie aside and tells her he has figured out why she invited him. He knows he is her father and promises to walk her down the aisle the next day. Then, Harry approaches Sophie, apologizing for being so slow on the uptake; he is also convinced that she is his daughter and promises to walk her down the aisle. Sophie leaves the party, hopelessly confused; she does not want to turn any of them down ("Voulez-Vous").

    Act II

    (Entr'acte) Sophie's having a nightmare, involving her three possible fathers all fighting for the right to walk her down the aisle and wakes up despairing ("Under Attack").

    Sophie's upset, and Donna assumes that Sophie wants to cancel the wedding and offers to handle all the details. Sophie is offended and vows that her children will not grow up not knowing who their father is. As Sophie storms out of the room, Sam enters and tries to tell Donna that Sophie may not be all she seems, but Donna will not listen ("One of Us"). She hates Sam; at the end of their affair, she said she never wanted to see him again. But it seems that Sam was the man Donna cared about the most, and both of them wish they could go back to the start ("SOS"').

    At the beach, Harry asks Tanya what the father of the bride ought to be doing for Sophie's wedding. Tanya explains that for her part, her father gave her his advice and then paid. Pepper, one of the guys who works at Donna's taverna, makes advances to Tanya, but she rebuffs him ("Does Your Mother Know").

    Sky finds out what Sophie has done in inviting Sam, Harry and Bill to the wedding. He accuses her of wanting a big white wedding only so that she can find out who her father is. He's very hurt that she kept this plan a secret from him. He storms off just as Sam walks in. Sam tries to give Sophie some fatherly advice by describing his failed marriage ("Knowing Me, Knowing You"), but Sophie is not consoled.

    Harry offers to Donna to pay for the wedding, and they reminisce about their fling ("Our Last Summer"). Sophie arrives and Donna helps her get dressed. She cannot believe her daughter is going to be a bride ("Slipping Through My Fingers"). Donna admits that her own mother disowned her when she learned that she was pregnant. They reconcile and Sophie asks her mother if she will walk her down the aisle. Sam arrives and tries to speak to Donna again, but she does not want to see him, and asks him to leave. He refuses, and a bitter confrontation ensues. Donna tells Sam that he broke her heart, presumably when she found out he was engaged ("The Winner Takes It All"). It emerges that the two still love each other dearly, albeit against Donna's better judgment.

    Rosie is making final preparations in the taverna when Bill arrives. He's upset because he has received a note that Donna will be walking Sophie down the aisle. Bill reaffirms his commitment to the single life, but Rosie has become attracted to him, and urges him to reconsider ("Take a Chance on Me"). They are about to have sex in the taverna, but the guests arrive, leaving Rosie quite stunned.
    The wedding begins, with Donna walking Sophie down the aisle. Before the priest has a chance to begin the ceremonies, Donna acknowledges to everyone that Sophie's father is present. Sophie tells her mother that she knows about her father. Donna realizes that Sophie invited them to the wedding for that very reason. The issue of Sophie's parentage is left unsettled, as none of them have any idea whether they are actually her father. Everyone involved agrees that it does not matter which one of them her biological parent is, as Sophie loves all three and they are all happy to be "one-third of a father" and a part of her life at last. Finally, Harry, who has made frequent references to his "other half" throughout the show, is revealed to be in a committed gay relationship.

    Suddenly, Sophie calls a halt to the proceedings. She is not ready to get married and Sky agrees with Sophie about not getting married. Sam seizes his chance and proposes to Donna in order to prevent the wedding preparations from going to waste. He explains that he loved her, even when he left to get married. It is revealed that he called off the wedding with his fiancée and came back to the island, only to be told that Donna was going out with another man (Bill). He went back, married his fiancée and had children but he got divorced. Surprisingly, Donna accepts ("I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do"). In the end, Sam and Donna are married, and at the end of the night, Sophie and Sky depart on a round-the-world tour ("I Have a Dream").

    Finale and Encore

    After their final bows to the audience, the ensemble performs a reprise of "Mamma Mia". A reprise of "Dancing Queen" follows, during which Donna, Tanya, Rosie are revealed wearing brightly colored ABBA inspired costumes. The cast ends the finale with "Waterloo", during which Sam, Bill, and Harry join the rest of the cast onstage in brightly colored costumes that match the leading ladies. The Dynamos and the Dads often invite the audience to clap, dance, and sing along during the finale.











    Paris: Hotel du Levant (October 2002)


    My spouse and I spent four nights at the Hotel du Levant in early October 2002. The Hotel du Levant is located in the heart of the fifth arrondissement in Saint-Michel on the left bank. The hotel is a blend of charm, authenticity, nostalgia and modernity. Elegance, thoughtfulness, comfort and style, the motto of the hotel, which is located within walking distance Notre-Dame and Ile de la Cite, the banks of the Seine and its bookstalls, Boulevards Saint Germain and Saint-Michel, the Conciergerie, and Sainte-Chapelle. The lounge offers chess, newspapers, magazines, and books. The hotel is located near the RER commuter line, and the Saint-Michel metro provides direct access to all airports and railway stations and is the link to main sections of Paris. Some of the 46 “Parisian-style” rooms are located on the street side from which you can admire the lively animation of the Latin Quarter from your window. For guests preferring a quieter accommodation, the courtyard rooms are perfectly suited. For over a hundred years, the Hotel du Levant in Paris has been a landmark and favored meeting spot through two centuries, the Roaring Twenties, two world wars, and the Liberation. Today, the fourth generation of the same family is still attentive to your well-being.


    I saw lots of restaurants serving fondue/raclette in the Latin Quarter (I'm not sure what arrondisement it was--maybe 5th or 6th?). I stayed at the Hotel du Levant, and there were tons of restaurants in a 2-block radius surrounding the hotel. Excellent, inexpensive, multi-course meals for $15.

     

    We stayed at the Hotel du Levant in the Latin Quarter (with a view of Notre Dame across the Seine), and although we were only a party of two, we had a room with a double bed and a single bed. I seem to remember paying for a larger room, which came with the additional bed. The hotel was cute and quaint, and I think it was less than $200 per night (in October of 2002). We loved the location because we were surrounded by little restaurants/outdoor cafes where you could have a great 3-course pre-fixe meal for about $15. It was easy to get to all the tourist sites using the Metro, and we were able to walk to some like Notre Dame, Saint-Chapelle, the Louvre, and the Musee d'Orsay (fantastic museum, by the way).




    London: Pizza Hut (October 2002)

    London: Jason’s Lace (October 2002)

    London: Greencoat Boy (October 2002)






    London: Galileos Locanda Toscana (October 2002)





    Paris: le Petit Marche (October 2002)

    My spouse and I dined at le Petit Marche for lunch in early October 2002. Le Petit Marche's menu is short and modern with Asian touches. Raw tuna is flash-fried in sesame seeds and served with a Thai sauce, making for a refreshing starter; crispy-coated deep-fried king prawns have a similar oriental lightness. The main vegetarian risotto is rich in basil, coriander, cream and al dente green beans. Pan-fried scallops with lime are precision-cooked and accompanied by a good purée and more beans. There's a short wine list. From there, we stumbled upon Le Petit Marche. This corner café/restaurant is located on rue Bearn, a small street just north and directly off of the place des Vosges. Our friends who were visiting Paris from Wales joined us. We were looking for an informal place. Le Petit Marche is not for those who want a quiet, romantic dinner. It’s busy, noisy, jam-packed café perfect for a quick lunch and people watching, but don’t come here if you don’t like to be seated in cramped quarters. The staff is helpful and friendly and most speak English. Start with the Chinese salad (salade chinois) or the ceviche. You’ll find French cuisine with Asian influences such as fresh tuna tartar (thon cru) with toasted sesame seeds served with a Thai sauce. Main courses are served with small bowls of mashed potatoes and green beans (haricot verts). Other recommended dishes include the cod (cabillaud), lamb (agneau), steak tartare with Asian spices, and the succulent duck breast (magret de canard) in a honey sauce. There is an excellent raspberry (framboise) for dessert.





    Paris: Chez Ma Cousine (October 2002)

    My spouse and I dined at Chez Ma Cousine for lunch in early October 2002. Chez Ma Cousine has been providing the wam atmosphere of a typical Montmartre cabaret-restaurant since 1928. In the heart of the 18th arrondissement of Paris, built on old quarries, the free commune of Montmartre is impregnated with a tumultuous, prestigious past and unknown.  Whether with friends, colleagues or even family, my cousin invites you to discover its cuisine as well as his show who has already made laugh a large number of people, thanks to its songwriters, fanciful, comedians... which in turn made him discover to their relatives.


    Paris: Le Bistrot 30 (October 2002)

    My spouse and I dined at Le Bistrot 30 for dinner in early October 2002. All those who tirelessly roam the cobblestones of the neighborhood know that they can make a stop in this small Bistro where he will find a cuisine of traditional dishes.

    Paris: Balthazar Cafe (October 2002)

    My spouse and I dined at the Balthazar Cafe for dinner in early October 2002. A true fixture of Saint-Germain-des-Pres and the Latin Quarter, a meeting place for intellectuals, academics, and writers, Le Balzar has been carrying on the great tradition of Parisian brasseries since 1886. You won’t have to stray far from the Sorbonne to come taste French cuisine that is homey, authentic, and timeless. The Latin Quarter ... a timeless hub of both knowledge and schoolboy antics. An endless stream of professors and students trading classroom for barroom. This is whereLe Balzarwas founded in 1890, between the Sorbonne, the College de France, and Paris' renowned medical and law schools. The country, which was at the height of the Belle Epoque, radiated prestige. In the heart of the fashionable artistic and intellectual part of Paris, Le Picard, Amédée Balzar served up beer from the tap of his newly opened bar at 49 rue des Ecoles. Located close to the greatest literary cafés of the day, such as Soleil d'Or, Vachette, Taverne du PanthEon, and Cafe de Cluny, it quickly became the bar of choice for students who were strapped for cash. There, they proceeded to challenge the philosophy of their time and remake the world. A few years later, Amedee Balzar took a well-deserved retirement. He sold his bar to the owner of the impressive Brasserie Lipp, Marcelin Cazes, who entrusted the building's renovation to his architect, Louis Madeline. A devote Art Deco enthusiast, he restored Le Balzar to its former glory. Now, opalescent globe lights shine softly above a subtle, stylish tile floor and rough-hewn wooden tables, setting off the sober elegance of the dark wood panelling and moleskin benches. Scattered about the walls, striking posters and paintings immortalize the 1930s, such as Partarrieu's cubist homage to the brasserie. Immense mirrors take up both walls, reflecting each other infinitely and opening up the space. When you look up, these ingeniously designed mirrors bend in at the top of the walls, delighting curious patrons who wish to consider the food at a neighboring table at their leisure.  Mrs. Marcellin Cazes turned the bar, called Le Petit Lipp, into a main fixture of the Left Bank. With discreet indifference, Le Balzar respected the anonymity of its famous customers and inspired visionaries. Politics, science, medicine, literature, history, and law were always on the menu. Architects and philosophers challenged each other again and again over two plats du jour. During the Cold War, tobacco smoke mingled with the ceaseless conversations that Sartre, Camus and Beauvoir had at Le Balzar. Andre Malraux found inspiration for his next speech while pouring over the entree menu. Jacques Toubon and his wife spoke together of both politics and painting. Lost in thought, Jean Tulard mused about the heyday of the Napoleonic Era over dessert. Vaclav Havel and Mario Soares came here from the Sorbonne or the College de France to talk about the latest conferences. Louis Malle and Johnny Depp have each savoured our buttered skate and chocolate profiteroles after a film. Never disturbed by the surrounding pomp, youth, laughter or cosmopolitanism, Le Balzar remains a haven for the soul—a place of humor, science, hope, and the future.