Theatre: Macbeth at the Pennsylvania Shakespeare Festival (July 2014)

Macbeth  is a tragedy by William Shakespeare; it is thought to have been first performed in 1606. It dramatizes the damaging physical and psychological effects of political ambition on those who seek power for its own sake. Of all the plays that Shakespeare wrote during the reign of James I, who was patron of Shakespeare's acting company, Macbeth most clearly reflects the playwright's relationship with his sovereign. It was first published in the Folio of 1623, possibly from a prompt book, and is his shortest tragedy.

A brave Scottish general named Macbeth receives a prophecy from a trio of witches that one day he will become King of Scotland. Consumed by ambition and spurred to action by his wife, Macbeth murders King Duncan and takes the Scottish throne for himself. He is then wracked with guilt and paranoia. Forced to commit more and more murders to protect himself from enmity and suspicion, he becomes a tyrannical ruler. The bloodbath and consequent civil war swiftly take Macbeth and Lady Macbeth into the realms of madness and death.

Shakespeare's source for the story is the account of Macbeth, King of Scotland, Macduff, and Duncan in Holinshed's Chronicles (1587), a history of England, Scotland, and Ireland familiar to Shakespeare and his contemporaries, although the events in the play differ extensively from the history of the real Macbeth. The events of the tragedy are usually associated with the execution of Henry Garnet for complicity in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605.

In the backstage world of theatre, some believe that the play is cursed, and will not mention its title aloud, referring to it instead as "The Scottish Play". Over the course of many centuries, the play has attracted some of the most renowned actors to the roles of Macbeth and Lady Macbeth. It has been adapted to film, television, opera, novels, comics, and other media.

Synopsis:

Act I

The play opens amidst thunder and lightning, and the Three Witches decide that their next meeting shall be with Macbeth. In the following scene, a wounded sergeant reports to King Duncan of Scotland that his generals—Macbeth, who is the Thane of Glamis, and Banquo—have just defeated the allied forces of Norway and Ireland, who were led by the traitorous Macdonwald and the Thane of Cawdor. Macbeth, the King's kinsman, is praised for his bravery and fighting prowess.

In the following scene, Macbeth and Banquo discuss the weather and their victory. As they wander onto a heath, the Three Witches enter and greet them with prophecies. Though Banquo challenges them first, they address Macbeth, hailing him as "Thane of Glamis," "Thane of Cawdor," and that he shall "be King hereafter." Macbeth appears to be stunned to silence. When Banquo asks of his own fortunes, the witches respond paradoxically, saying that he will be less than Macbeth, yet happier, less successful, yet more. He will father a line of kings though he himself will not be one. While the two men wonder at these pronouncements, the witches vanish, and another thane, Ross, arrives and informs Macbeth of his newly bestowed title: Thane of Cawdor, as the previous Thane of Cawdor shall be put to death for treason. The first prophecy is thus fulfilled, and Macbeth, previously skeptical, immediately begins to harbour ambitions of becoming king.

King Duncan welcomes and praises Macbeth and Banquo, and declares that he will spend the night at Macbeth's castle at Inverness; he also names his son Malcolm as his heir. Macbeth sends a message ahead to his wife, Lady Macbeth, telling her about the witches' prophecies. Lady Macbeth suffers none of her husband's uncertainty and wishes him to murder Duncan in order to obtain kingship. When Macbeth arrives at Inverness, she overrides all of her husband's objections by challenging his manhood and successfully persuades him to kill the king that very night. He and Lady Macbeth plan to get Duncan's two chamberlains drunk so that they will black out; the next morning they will blame the chamberlains for the murder. They will be defenseless as they will remember nothing.

Act II

While Duncan is asleep, Macbeth stabs him, despite his doubts and a number of supernatural portents, including a hallucination of a bloody dagger. He is so shaken that Lady Macbeth has to take charge. In accordance with her plan, she frames Duncan's sleeping servants for the murder by placing bloody daggers on them. Early the next morning, Lennox, a Scottish nobleman, and Macduff, the loyal Thane of Fife, arrive. A porter opens the gate and Macbeth leads them to the king's chamber, where Macduff discovers Duncan's body. Macbeth murders the guards to prevent them from professing their innocence, but claims he did so in a fit of anger over their misdeeds. Duncan's sons Malcolm and Donalbain flee to England and Ireland, respectively, fearing that whoever killed Duncan desires their demise as well. The rightful heirs' flight makes them suspects and Macbeth assumes the throne as the new King of Scotland as a kinsman of the dead king. Banquo reveals this to the audience, and while sceptical of the new King Macbeth, he remembers the witches' prophecy about how his own descendants would inherit the throne; this makes him suspicious of Macbeth.

Act III

Despite his success, Macbeth, also aware of this part of the prophecy, remains uneasy. Macbeth invites Banquo to a royal banquet, where he discovers that Banquo and his young son, Fleance, will be riding out that night. Fearing Banquo's suspicions, Macbeth arranges to have him murdered, by hiring two men to kill them, later sending a Third Murderer. The assassins succeed in killing Banquo, but Fleance escapes. Macbeth becomes furious: he fears that his power remains insecure as long as an heir of Banquo remains alive.

At a banquet, Macbeth invites his lords and Lady Macbeth to a night of drinking and merriment. Banquo's ghost enters and sits in Macbeth's place. Macbeth raves fearfully, startling his guests, as the ghost is only visible to himself. The others panic at the sight of Macbeth raging at an empty chair, until a desperate Lady Macbeth tells them that her husband is merely afflicted with a familiar and harmless malady. The ghost departs and returns once more, causing the same riotous anger and fear in Macbeth. This time, Lady Macbeth tells the lords to leave, and they do so.

Act IV

Macbeth, disturbed, visits the three witches once more and asks them to reveal the truth of their prophecies to him. To answer his questions, they summon horrible apparitions, each of which offers predictions and further prophecies to put Macbeth's fears at rest. First, they conjure an armoured head, which tells him to beware of Macduff (IV.i.72). Second, a bloody child tells him that no one born of a woman shall be able to harm him. Thirdly, a crowned child holding a tree states that Macbeth will be safe until Great Birnam Wood comes to Dunsinane Hill. Macbeth is relieved and feels secure because he knows that all men are born of women and forests cannot move. Macbeth also asks if Banquo's sons will ever reign in Scotland: the witches conjure a procession of eight crowned kings, all similar in appearance to Banquo, and the last carrying a mirror that reflects even more kings. Macbeth realises that these are all Banquo's descendants having acquired kingship in numerous countries. After the witches perform a mad dance and leave, Lennox enters and tells Macbeth that Macduff has fled to England. Macbeth orders Macduff's castle be seized, and, most cruelly, sends murderers to slaughter Macduff, as well as Macduff's wife and children. Although Macduff is no longer in the castle, everyone in Macduff's castle is put to death, including Lady Macduff and their young son.

Act V

Meanwhile, Lady Macbeth becomes wracked with guilt from the crimes she and her husband have committed. At night, in the king's palace at Dunsinane, a doctor and a gentlewoman discuss Lady Macbeth's strange habit of sleepwalking. Suddenly, Lady Macbeth enters in a trance with a candle in her hand. Bemoaning the murders of Duncan, Lady Macduff, and Banquo, she tries to wash off imaginary bloodstains from her hands, all the while speaking of the terrible things she knows she pressed her husband to do. She leaves, and the doctor and gentlewoman marvel at her descent into madness. Her belief that nothing can wash away the blood on her hands is an ironic reversal of her earlier claim to Macbeth that "[a] little water clears us of this deed" (II.ii.66).

In England, Macduff is informed by Ross that his "castle is surprised; [his] wife and babes / Savagely slaughter'd" (IV.iii.204–5). When this news of his family's execution reaches him, Macduff is stricken with grief and vows revenge. Prince Malcolm, Duncan's son, has succeeded in raising an army in England, and Macduff joins him as he rides to Scotland to challenge Macbeth's forces. The invasion has the support of the Scottish nobles, who are appalled and frightened by Macbeth's tyrannical and murderous behaviour. Malcolm leads an army, along with Macduff and Englishmen Siward (the Elder), the Earl of Northumberland, against Dunsinane Castle. While encamped in Birnam Wood, the soldiers are ordered to cut down and carry tree limbs to camouflage their numbers.

Before Macbeth's opponents arrive, he receives news that Lady Macbeth has killed herself, causing him to sink into a deep and pessimistic despair and deliver his "Tomorrow, and tomorrow, and tomorrow" soliloquy (V.v.17–28). Though he reflects on the brevity and meaninglessness of life, he nevertheless awaits the English and fortifies Dunsinane. He is certain that the witches' prophecies guarantee his invincibility, but is struck with fear when he learns that the English army is advancing on Dunsinane shielded with boughs cut from Birnam Wood, in apparent fulfillment of one of the prophecies.

A battle culminates in Macduff's confrontation with Macbeth, who kills Young Siward in combat. The English forces overwhelm his army and castle. Macbeth boasts that he has no reason to fear Macduff, for he cannot be killed by any man born of woman. Macduff declares that he was "from his mother's womb / Untimely ripp'd" (V.8.15–16), (i.e., born by Caesarean section) and is not "of woman born" (an example of a literary quibble), fulfilling the second prophecy. Macbeth realises too late that he has misinterpreted the witches' words. Though he realises that he is doomed, he continues to fight. Macduff kills and beheads him, thus fulfilling the remaining prophecy.

Macduff carries Macbeth's head onstage and Malcolm discusses how order has been restored. His last reference to Lady Macbeth, however, reveals "'tis thought, by self and violent hands / Took off her life" (V.ix.71–72), but the method of her suicide is undisclosed. Malcolm, now the King of Scotland, declares his benevolent intentions for the country and invites all to see him crowned at Scone.
Although Malcolm, and not Fleance, is placed on the throne, the witches' prophecy concerning Banquo ("Thou shalt get kings") was known to the audience of Shakespeare's time to be true: James VI of Scotland (later also James I of England) was supposedly a descendant of Banquo.

Link to the review by The Morning Call here















Theatre: Lend Me a Tenor at Pennsylvania Shakespeare Festival (July 2014)

Lend Me a Tenor is a comedy by Ken Ludwig. The play was produced on both London's West End (1986) and Broadway (1989). It received nine Tony Award nominations and won for Best Actor and Best Director. A Broadway revival opened in 2010. Lend Me a Tenor has been translated into sixteen languages and produced in twenty-five countries.

Synopsis:

The play takes place in 1934, in a hotel suite in Cleveland, Ohio. The two-room set has a sitting room with a sofa and chairs at right and a bedroom at left. A center "stage wall" divides the two rooms, with a door leading from one room to the other. (Throughout the play, the audience can see what's happening in both rooms at the same time.)

Act I

As Scene I of the play opens, Henry Saunders, general manager of the Cleveland Grand Opera Company, is anxiously awaiting the arrival of Tito Merelli, a world-famous Italian opera tenor, known as "Il Stupendo" to his many fans. Merelli is coming to Cleveland to sing the lead role in a performance of Giuseppe Verdi's Otello. It's the biggest event in the Cleveland Opera's history. A sellout crowd and the members of the Cleveland Opera Guild will be at the opera house that evening to see the great Merelli.

Saunders' harried assistant, Max, is also in the hotel suite. Saunders has charged Max with seeing to Merelli's needs, and with getting Merelli to the opera house in time for the performance. Also there is Maggie Saunders, Henry's daughter and Max's sometime-girlfriend. Maggie is a fan of Tito Merelli, and hopes to meet him (and, she confesses to Max, she is romantically attracted to the famous opera singer).

Tito finally arrives at the hotel suite, accompanied by his hot-tempered Italian wife, Maria, who is jealous because Tito flirts with other women. When she finds Maggie hiding in the bedroom closet, trying to get Tito's autograph, Maria angrily assumes that Maggie is Tito's secret lover. Maria writes Tito a "Dear John" letter, and leaves the hotel.

In the sitting room, Max gives Tito a tranquilizer-laced drink, trying to calm him down before the performance. (Unbeknownst to either of them, Tito accidentally takes a double-dose of tranquilizers.) When he learns that Max is an aspiring opera singer, Tito kindly gives Max a singing lesson, teaching him to "loosen up" and sing with more confidence. Tito and Max sing a duet together ("Dio, che nell'alma infondere" from Verdi's Don Carlos).

When Tito returns to the bedroom, he finds Maria's note. Horrified that his wife has left him, Tito goes into a fit of passion and tries to "kill himself" with various non-lethal objects (i.e. trying to stab himself with a wine bottle). Max manages to calm Tito down ("This is not an Italian opera!"), and takes the singer into the bedroom, where Tito lies down on the bed for a rest.

Much later (Scene II), Max is unable to wake Tito from his nap. Max finds an empty medicine bottle and Maria's "Dear John" letter, which is written in such a way ("By the time you read this, I will be gone.") that Max mistakenly thinks Tito has committed suicide. When Saunders arrives, Max tearfully tells him that Tito is dead.

Saunders is furious. The opera performance will have to be cancelled, and the audience will demand their money back. It will be a disaster for the Cleveland opera, and for Saunders himself. ("Why did he have to kill himself before the performance? He could have waited until tomorrow morning and jumped out the window after breakfast!")

However, Saunders comes up with a plan. Since no one else knows that Tito is dead, Max will step into the Othello role and pretend to be Tito. Wearing Tito's costume and makeup, Max will star in the opera performance. The audience will never know that it is not Tito Merelli, and they can announce Tito's death tomorrow morning. Max reluctantly agrees to the plan. He goes into the bathroom to change, and later returns, dressed as Othello, in a costume, wig, and blackface makeup. As the curtain falls on Act One, Saunders and Max leave for the performance, just as Tito wakes up in the bedroom.

Act II

As the second act opens, Saunders and Max return to the hotel suite. Max's performance as Othello was a huge success, and no one suspected that he was not Tito. Then Saunders gets a phone call, telling him that the police are downstairs in the lobby. They are looking for "a lunatic dressed as Othello, who thinks he's Tito Merelli." During Max's performance, the "lunatic" tried to force his way into the opera house, hit a policeman who tried to stop him, and ran away.

Saunders tells Max to quickly change out of his Othello costume and makeup, while he goes downstairs to handle the police. Max returns to the bedroom, but is shocked and horrified to find Tito is missing from the bed. Still wearing his Othello costume, Max leaves the hotel suite and runs to find Saunders.

A few seconds later, Tito Merelli returns to the hotel suite, also dressed as Othello, in a costume, wig, and blackface makeup. Frantic and on the run from the police, Tito is even more confused when other characters in the play show up to congratulate him on his "magnificent performance" as Othello.
For the rest of the play, Max and Tito—who are identical in their Othello costumes and makeup—are repeatedly mistaken for each other, as they alternately run in and out of the hotel suite. Max is mistaken for Tito, and Tito is mistaken for Max by Saunders. (The play is a classic example of "a door-slamming farce.") Also, Tito and Max both find themselves being romantically pursued by Maggie Saunders, and by Diana, the Cleveland Opera's sexy and ambitious soprano. Eventually, Diana seduces Tito in the bedroom, while Maggie simultaneously seduces Max (who she thinks is Tito) in the living room.

At the end of the play, things are sorted out. Maria returns to the hotel and makes up with the bewildered Tito ("Maria, darling, get-a me outta here!"), while Max manages to step into the bathroom long enough to change out of his Othello costume and wig, and emerge as himself. Tito and Maria leave together, while Saunders accompanies Diana to a downstairs reception. Maggie realizes that not only was Max the "Tito" that she made love to, he was also the "Tito" who sang so passionately in tonight's opera performance. As the play closes, Max and Maggie share a kiss.

Link to the review by The Morning Call here

















Nashville (July 2014)

7/3: Pennsylvania to Newark

My spouse and I spent the evening prior to our trip to
Nashville at the Newark Hilton, where we ate dinner in Amelia’s Bar (se my separate review of the hotel). Because our flight the next morning departed at 7:00 am, we decided to relax our schedule and stay overnight at the Newark Airport Hilton rather than departing our home at 3:00 am. We often obtain a “park-and-fly” room rate at an airport hotel, which entitles us to a room for one evening and parking for seven to fourteen days.

7/4: Newark to Nashville


Because we had to depart for the airport before breakfast began at the Hilton, we were unable to use the complimentary breakfast coupons that we received as Diamond Hilton HHonors members. However, the front desk exchanged our breakfast coupons for one appetizer coupon that we used the evening before. We rode on the complimentary hotel shuttle bus to the airport, which departs every 20 minutes. Even though the hotel is located only three miles from the airport, the drive took about 10+ minutes because of road design.

Terminal A at Newark’s Liberty International Airport does not offer as many dining, shopping, and passenger services as the other terminals at the airport. Terminal A offers only one sit-down restaurant called Currito Cantina, which serves alcoholic beverages in addition to food. Unfortunately, that morning, the restaurant’s stove was broken, and they were unable to serve hot food. The terminal offers three counter-service outlets (Dunkin’ Donuts, Ben and Jerry’s, and Abica Coffee / Boar’s Head Deli) and two shops (Hudson News and Tech-to-Go).

Southwest flight 989 was scheduled to depart from Newark (EWR) at 7:00 am and arrive in Nashville (BNA) at 8:10 am, but the flight departed about one hour late. The flight time is about 2 hours and 10 minutes, with a one-hour gain because we flew west. We flew Southwest’s standard equipment (a Boeing 737), and we secured seats in the second (true) exit row in the aisle and middle seat positions. (My spouse paid for early bird check-in, but received the last A-numbered position. Without early bird check-in, I received an early B boarding position.) Because we flew on a holiday, Southwest treats each passenger of legal drinking age to a complimentary alcoholic beverage (beer, wine, or hard liquor). Our day was off to a good start!


Our flight arrived at the Nashville International Airport at 9:15 am. We expected to arrive at a small airport, but it was large and outfitted well. We hailed a taxi outside of baggage claim that drove us to the downtown area. The airport has an outdoor queueing system for taxis. You can pay for your ride using a credit card, including tip. The ride to the downtown area took about 20 minutes (although it is only 10 miles, we encountered some holiday traffic). The trip costs a flat rate of $25 plus tip.


A taxi drove us to our hotel for the next two nights, the Doubletree Nashville Downtown (see my separate review). Because it was early, we were unable to check in to our room, but the front desk clerk appeased us with coupons for the complimentary buffet breakfast. Although the meal was nearly over, we enjoyed a drink and a quick snack. After we stored our luggage, we walked around the city.


We only had 1.5 days in which to see Nashville, so we maximized our time. We walked along Broadway, where we admired the colorful neon honky-tonk signs. On the weekend that we visited, the city closed Broadway and nearby streets to vehicle traffic as it began its Independence Day celebration. Nashville hosts the second-largest fireworks celebration in the United States.


We ate lunch at Bailey’s Sports Bar & Grille (with outdoor seating on the second floor), and dinner at Merchant’s (see my separate review of Merchant’s).


After dinner, we strolled along Broadway and enjoyed the Let Freedom Sing holiday celebration, including live concerts and fireworks. The vantage point for the fireworks from Broadway did not provide great visibility, although it was a good place to watch the musical acts. If we could have seen the fireworks show from the Riverfront Park), the view would have been spectacular! Some ground displays near LP Field (stadium) were viewable only from along the riverbank. Fans began to set up their blankets and claim their spots around 12:00 noon, NINE HOURS before the show began! During the fireworks show, the Nashville Symphony played on the main stage. The conductor tailored their musical program to complement the pyrotechnic display.


7/5: Nashville


We rose early to maximize our one full day in the city. After a quick buffet breakfast at the Doubletree (included with our room rate), we walked downtown. We admired the Schermerhorn Symphony Center, which features an outdoor fountain, beautiful portico, statue, and musical flourishes. Next, we viewed the façade of the Country Music Hall of Fame, which resembles a tremble clef when viewed from the sky, with building accents representing the keys on a piano, records or CDs, and a radio antenna). We looked at the stars for Dolly Parton, Elvis Presley, Les Paul, and Hank Williams, and others on the Music City Walk of Fame. We photographed the Ryman Auditorium (where the Grand Ole Opry began), the attractive Convention Center, and the Bridgestone Arena (home to the Nashville Predator hockey team).


We boarded two of the free city shuttles and rode two separate lines (green and blue) for a free sightseeing tour of the city. We saw Bicentennial Mall, the Farmers Market, the restored train station, and the Frist Center for the Visual Arts (an Art Deco landmark built in the 1930s). The green circuit runs between Gulch and Riverfront Station, and the blue circuit runs between the Schermerhorn Symphony Center and Bicentennial Mall. The purple line does not operate on weekends. We later walked on the Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge to take panoramic photos of the LP Field (home of the Tennessee Titans football team) and the city skyline.

We enjoyed drinks and music at Honky Tonk Central, an outdoor lunch at Rock Bottom Brewery, and dinner at Husk (see my separate review of Husk).


7/6: Nashville to Newark


Because we needed to depart for the airport before breakfast began at the hotel, we were unable to use our complimentary coupons. We checked out and exited the hotel on Fourth Avenue, where a line of taxis waited across the street. We took a quick 10-minute ride to the airport, and we paid our flat-rate fare of $25 (plus tip) with a credit card.


The Nashville Airport is larger than we expected. Live music (on four stages) and art exhibits (both rotating and permanent) provide something for passengers to do while they wait. The airport offers 20+ dining options (full-service and casual counter-service) and 20+ retailers. Full-service restaurants include Gibson (guitar) Café, Tootsies Orchid Lounge, Neely's Bar-B-Que, O’Charley’s, Swett’s, and Tennessee Tavern. The airport receives awards for its design and services: best customer service, best overall concessions, and most unique services (for example, the airport offers a walk-in medical clinic).


We used the Southwest kiosk to check our bags. The airport offers an expedited line for TSA pre-check customers. Despite the varied sit-down restaurant options at the airport, at such an early hour of the morning (and in the terminal from which we departed), we did not have many options. Therefore, we bought some food and drinks non-alcoholic drinks at Provence Breads & Cafe. Provence has limited seating and offers counter service only.


Southwest flight 3656 from Nashville (BNA) departed at 8:45 am and arrived in Newark (EWR) at 12:10 pm (about 2 hours and 15 minutes of flying time). We claimed our bags and took the Air Train to stop P4 to wait for the Hilton shuttle. The van arrived in about 20 minutes and transported us back to the hotel, where we retrieved our car and drove home.


Conclusion


We enjoyed our trip to Nashville, but we did not have enough time. In order to use frequent flyer ticket credits that were expiring, we squeezed this trip into just three days (and no extra time-off from work). With more days, we would have visited the Gaylord Opryland, the Grand Old Opry, and The Hermitage (Andrew Jackson’s home). We also want to visit Walland, Tennessee to eat and stay at the Inn at Blackberry Farm (about four hours from Nashville). So we will return to the “Music City”, possibly for another Fourth of July weekend, because we loved the celebration!
 
Hotels:
Restaurants:
 

Nashvillle: Doubletree Nashvillle Downtown (July 2014)

My spouse and I stayed at the Doubletree Nashville Downtown for two nights in early July 2014 over the Fourth of July holiday. We reserved our stay on-line using the Hilton website, and we remitted HHonors points for a complimentary award stay. (Take care when you book a Doubletree hotel in Nashville because another Doubletree is located at the airport.)

Taxis from the airport have regulated flat-rate fares, so the cost to most downtown hotels is $25. The price seemed reasonable when we arrived, because during daytime traffic, it took about 20+ minutes to drive to the hotel. However, it seemed like a high price when we returned to the airport in the early morning hours and the trip took less than 10 minutes. We paid our fare (and the gratuity) using a credit card. A taxi queue is located outside of baggage claim, and the process is orderly and efficient.

The Doubletree Nashville Downtown is located close to the riverfront and to Broadway; however, you may prefer the location of other downtown Hilton-branded hotels (such as the full-service Hilton and the Hampton Inn and Suites). Because we used award points, the Doubletree “cost” slightly less than the Hilton or the Hampton Inn, which better fit with our HHonors balance. Room rates were higher than we expected, on par with hotel rates in any large city (possibly because of the Independence Day celebration).

The hotel is located a few blocks from Broadway (a 10-minute half-mile walk). Guests encounter a slight incline in elevation on the return walk to the hotel. Guests can walk from the Doubletree to many restaurants and shops, but most businesses were closed on the holiday weekend. A Dollar General discount store near the hotel sells beverages (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic), food, and other items that guests may have forgotten. (It was open on the holiday weekend, and business was booming!) A small sundry store in the hotel lobby sells drinks, snacks, toiletries, and souvenir items; guests must use their room key card to access the shop.

The hotel offers underground valet parking, but we did not have a car. Depending on where guests enter the hotel, such as from the valet area on Fourth Avenue North where taxis drop guests off, they must go up one floor to reach the lobby. Another hotel entrance / exit exists on the lobby level, but it opens onto Union Street via a pedestrian passageway / sidewalk that is not easily accessible by car. At the hotel, taxis queue across the street from the hotel driveway on Fourth Avenue North, so guests can to hail one at any hour without the aid of the doorman. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle service within 1 mile of the hotel. The hotel has a concierge stand, but when we asked him to store our luggage (as the front desk directed us), the concierge was not knowledgeable about the process. Instead, we carried our bags back down to the lower level to ask the valet attendants to store them.

Several dining options exist at the Doubletree Nashville Downtown. Swank’s Martini and Wine Bar is located near the lobby. Swank’s has high ceilings, indoor seating, outdoor seating (where smoking is permitted), and live music on certain nights of the week. Next to Swank’s is the Plaza Cafe, which is part of Swank’s but is less open and airy. Because we are HHonors Diamond members, we received coupons for the complimentary breakfast buffet on every day of our stay. Non-revenue-generating breakfast patrons sit in a back room away from the paying customers of the Plaza Cafe. The servers in the back breakfast room are the friendliest that we have met anywhere! Their positive and outgoing attitude is remarkable because they do not work for large tips, other than the few dollars that guests leave because of the buffet format.

The breakfast buffet features a made-to-order omelet station and waffle bar, a hot bar (with eggs, meats, potatoes, pancakes, oatmeal, and grits), pastries and breads, and a cold bar (with fresh fruit, cereal, and yogurt). The omelet / waffle chef placed a tip jar in front of himself; we have never witnessed that tasteless request for gratuities! Wait staff serves water, coffee, and orange juice (included with the breakfast buffet), and they are quick to offer beverage refills with a smile. Breakfast hours are generous, from 6:00 am to 10:00 am on weekdays, and 7:00 am to 12:00 noon on weekends. The hotel also has a large Starbucks Cafe, with both indoor and outdoor seating.

On the day that we tried to check into the hotel, we sat in Swank’s Bar for hours, despite the less-than-welcoming attitude of the European bartender. Further, he insisted that we close out our check with him so that he could receive his tip before the shift changed. The replacement bartender, the remainder of the wait staff, and the restaurant manager were pleasant in comparison.

The Doubletree Nashville Downtown offers 337 rooms spread among nine floors. Every floor contains both ice and vending machines. The second floor contains the indoor swimming pool, fitness center, business center, and several meeting rooms. (A flower and garden show occurred in one of the event rooms when we visited.) The business center permits guests to print from their room. The indoor pool area contains a corner wall of windows, a skylight, and modern-looking lounging furniture (white with lime green cushions) that makes the space feel resort-like. The fitness center is located adjacent to the pool, and it contains the standard array of treadmills, elliptical machines, bikes, weights, and so on (approximately two or three of each piece of equipment). The pool operates from 7:00 am to 10:00 pm, but the fitness center is open 24 hours per day.

We encountered difficulty when we checked into this hotel. As HHonors Diamond members, we often check in early to a city hotel. (Actually, the only Hilton-branded hotels that have not allowed us early access to our room are the Doubletree Nashville Downtown and the Doubletree Jersey City. Is it coincidental that it happens to us only at the Doubletree brand?) We waited, and waited, and waited for our room, even though we saw other couples checking in before us. Because we were frustrated, we asked those guests when they arrived, how long they waited, and what type of room they reserved. We thought that perhaps they had arrived earlier than we arrived, or that they were not also waiting for a room with a king-size bed. We could determine no reason why everyone else checked in and we could not. We went to the front desk several times, and the attendants gave the same speech every time: our room would be ready shortly. Eventually our room was ready, and we discovered that it was just an ordinary room! Our room had no special view or other features, so we do not know why we waited for hours to check in.

Previous reviewers commented on the room size, but the space in a king room was adequate. The bathroom size was also fine for a city hotel. The room contained an easy chair for relaxing. The room was in good condition, although the shower drained slowly, which we informed the front desk at check out (we were in Room 904). The room does not contain an electronic safe nor any bathrobes or slippers, but it had a luggage stand and an iron and ironing board, and we received chocolates at evening turn-down on our second night. The hotel provides toiletries by Crabtree and Evelyn (mouthwash, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, shower cap, and mending kit).

We enjoyed our stay at the Doubletree; however, next time we visit Nashville, we will try the Hilton or the Hampton Inn. 








Nashvillle: Husk Nashville (July 2014)

My spouse and I dined at Husk Nashville on the Fourth of July holiday weekend in July 2014. We made our reservation on-line using the Open Table reservation system. We were surprised that restaurant did not call us to reconfirm. When we planned our trip to Nashville for the holiday weekend, we did not realize that our top-choice restaurants (like the Catbird Seat and Rolf & Daughters) were closed. Although Husk closed on the holiday itself, it was open on the days preceding and following. Husk is open daily for weekday lunch, weekend brunch, and dinner. The original Husk in Charleston has been on our “to dine” list since it opened. In addition, we read many good things about chef / owner Sean Brock. Therefore, we were excited to try his Nashville outpost.

Patrons can walk to Husk from downtown area, particularly if they stay at a hotel near Broadway (such as the Omni or Hilton). However, because we stayed at the Doubletree, we took a taxi. The taxi cost $10 and took a long time because of all the street closures for the holiday street party. Perhaps on a normal day, you could travel to Husk for $5 or so. We walked home, which provided good exercise after our filling meal.

The restaurant is located in a restored home in the Rutledge Hill neighborhood, just a few blocks south of Broadway. The historic part of the home adjoins a modern two-story room with a vaulted / cathedral ceiling and two walls of windows. Two dining rooms exist in the original house on the street level, along with the kitchen that diners walk past to reach the lower level. The land on which the restaurant sits slopes so that the lower level is actually a “walk-out”. Husk has a small bar and an outdoor patio on the lower level where guests can dine and / or drink. (If you simply must dine at Husk Nashville and you cannot get a regular reservation for a standard table, you can dine at the bar.)

Our server exhibited odd mannerisms and a pretentious attitude. In addition, we encountered some issues with his actual service. For example, we each ordered dessert, but the waiter served our dishes in succession, not concurrently. The waiter apologized for his mistake, and said that he entered it incorrectly in the computer. We would rather that he held the first dish until the second was ready instead of having one of us eat our dessert course while the other person watched, and then vice-versa. Also, when the waiter delivered our bill, we noticed that the restaurant charged us for four appetizers (two each of the same two dishes). In actuality, we ordered only two total appetizers (one of each dish). This time the waiter blamed the computer system, and he said that it was not the first time that day that the computer had double-billed. (If that was the case, then he should have proofread / reviewed each check before he delivered it.) After hearing and reading so much about Chef Brock and Husk, we had higher expectations for service.

As for the food... The restaurant serves freshly baked and still-warm Parker House rolls and homemade butter as guests peruse the menu. We shared two appetizers: Husk chicken skins, and crispy pigs ears, neither of which we adored. Both were a bit too flavorful and / or spicy for our taste. The portions were enormous, but the dishes were not delicious enough to make us want to devour every bite. The crispy chicken skin was not “all that”. In our opinion, a certain famous fast-food restaurant uses more tasty chicken breading. Regarding the pigs ears, we felt that both the menu description and the server’s supplemental information were misleading. When it was delivered, we saw that this item was really a lettuce-wrap type appetizer, a dish that was similar in concept to an appetizer that we ate at Merchant’s the evening before, and therefore, it seemed duplicative rather than inventive.

Our entrees were more successful than our appetizers. We selected a pork dish and a beef dish. The pork was served with a succotash of hominy and butter beans, accompanied by onions. The beef dish was accompanied by onions and pea shoots. Plating / presentation was rustic, and the chef used eclectic ingredients. For dessert, we ordered one chess pie (a custard-type pie accompanied by peaches, cream, and lemon sorbet), which was average. The waiter delivered the second dessert (the cheese plate), approximately 15 minutes after the first dessert arrived. We wonder why the cheese board took so long to prepare because none of the items required cooking-to-order.

Husk uses unique serve-ware: some “plates” look like cross-sections cut from logs. However, the wood slices are so large that it was difficult to fit them on our small table and still have room for our drinks and cutlery. Table placement was somewhat tight, too.

We are glad that we dined at Husk, but we held higher expectations for our overall experience. Still, patrons receive a good meal at Husk for a fair price.






Nashville: Rock Bottom Brewery (July 2014)

Scoot your boots down to Rock Bottom Nashville and enjoy fresh, brewed-in-house beer, and Nashville's biggest and best bar and dining patio. Located in the 100 Block of Broadway, Rock Bottom Nashville’s Brewery and Restaurant (street level), and RoofTop Restaurant, are across the river from LP Field (Go Titans!), a couple blocks from Bridgestone Arena (Go Preds!), and a street over from the Country Music Hall of Fame (Yee-haw!). Their RoofTop Restaurant, open year round, is especially enjoyable.






Nashvillle: Merchant's (July 2014)

My spouse and I dined at Merchant’s on the Fourth of July holiday in July 2014. We made our reservation on-line using the Open Table reservation system. The restaurant honored our booking as promised even though it was filled to capacity when we arrived. The restaurant reconfirmed our reservation two days prior. On the telephone, the reservationist referred to the restaurant as “Downtown” Merchant’s, which makes it sound as if they have another location elsewhere.

When we planned our trip to Nashville for the holiday weekend, we did not realize that our top-choice restaurants (like Catbird Seat and Rolf & Daughters) were closed. In addition, many restaurants that were open for business before and after the regular holiday were not open on the Fourth itself. Fortunately, Merchant’s was open, and it was a winning experience! The downstairs bistro at Merchant’s is open daily for lunch and dinner, but the upstairs fine-dining venue is open daily for dinner only.

Merchant’s is located on the corner of Broadway and Fourth Avenue. The city closed those streets to vehicles during the Let Freedom Sing! Celebration, so they were pedestrian only. Broadway was the main venue for the festivities, with food and souvenir stalls lining the blocks that led to the main stage area, where musical acts performed throughout the day. We were able to leave our dinner at Merchant’s and become an immediate part of the party. Even on a regular night, the Merchant’s location is fantastic because all of the honky-tonks surround it.

Merchant’s is located in a restored building from the 1800s that functioned as a pharmacy and drug company, and then later as a hotel. Famous country singers like Hank Williams, Patsy Cline, Loretta Lynn, and Dolly Parton stayed there.

Merchant’s restaurant has two parts. The downstairs bistro serves a more casual menu, and the space features a vibrant bar scene where bartenders serve hand-crafted cocktails at the expansive marble bar and counter. The black-and-white downstairs space offers both booth and table seating. A covered alleyway patio on Broadway offers outdoor dining. The restaurant offers valet parking, and it displays a thoughtful sign that invites guests to enjoy a complimentary non-alcoholic beverage at the bar while they wait for their car. Both dining levels contain bathrooms, and an elevator allows patrons to move between the floors.

The upstairs space at Merchant’s features a fine-dining menu. The execution of flavors of all of our dishes proved a bit intense on the night we dined, but we thought that was perhaps because the “second string” staff was working in the kitchen that holiday evening and not as adept at seasoning as the regular staff. We shared a pork-belly lettuce wrap-type appetizer, a beet salad, and two entrees: black scallop risotto and lamb. We passed on dessert, although the options sounded wonderful! Because the portions are large, we were full after our three courses. We also could not resist the delicious bread and butter that accompanied our meal.

We truly enjoyed our meal at Merchant’s, and we think that it deserves higher praise and more publicity than it gets. The food was delicious, using inventive and creative ingredients and presentation, the decor / atmosphere upstairs was peaceful, and the service was good. 






Nashville: Bailey's (July 2014)

Newark: Hilton Newark Airport (July 2014)

My spouse and I spent one night at the Hilton Newark Airport in early July 2014 prior to an extended weekend trip. We reserved our room on-line using the Hilton website, and we secured a “park and stay” rate that included our room for one night and seven days of parking.

The Hilton is located approximately 10 minutes from the airport. The complimentary 24-hour shuttle service departs every 20 minutes, beginning at the top of the hour. The shuttle TO the airport drops guests at their terminal; however, the shuttle FROM the airport cannot pick up passengers directly at any terminal. Guests must first take the Air Train to the P4 stop, where all hotel shuttles wait to pick up passengers. (Valet parking and public parking are also available at the P4 stop.) The Air Train runs every 5 minutes or so; therefore, the wait does not add much time to your pick-up. The process involves many steps, though. First, you must descend the escalator to the lower level of the terminal to claim your bags, go back up the escalator to access the Air Train escalator, then up another escalator to truly board the train, travel to P4, then descend to street level and wait for the hotel shuttle. At P4, no queueing system exists; therefore, it is possible that latecomers could board the shuttle before people who have been waiting. (This process is not unique to the Hilton. Every Newark Airport hotel must follow the same drop-off and pick-up procedure.)

From the Hilton Newark Airport, guests can safely walk to the Hampton Inn or the Marriott Renaissance because those properties are adjacent to the Hilton and their parking lots adjoin. Guests cannot walk to any other hotels, shops, or restaurants. A bellman provides baggage service to guest rooms.

A three-story garage provides parking at the Hilton. Although the top level is exposed to the elements, the first and second floors are covered (although open on the sides). Unfortunately, no underground or covered access leads from the parking garage into the hotel. (It was raining heavily on the night that we checked in, so we got wet.) However, the hotel features a porte-cochere where guests can unload their bags, thus minimizing their contact. The parking garage features an ACE rental car outlet. One helpful hint that we discovered when we departed the garage: If you drive around to the back of the garage (which is not intuitive), you can exit the property on McClellan Street. Otherwise, if you exit the front entrance of the hotel, you must drive through nearby neighborhoods before you reach McClellan.)

Three eating venues exist at the Hilton: a casual bar (Amelia’s), a full-service restaurant (the Newarker), and a quick-pick snack bar (that sells Starbucks products). Because we are HHonors Diamond members, we received coupons for a complimentary breakfast in the Newarker restaurant or at the quick-pick counter. Unfortunately, we had to depart for the airport before the full-service restaurant opened at 6:00 am. The quick-pick cafe opened earlier at 5:00 am, but that time was also too late for us to depart for the airport. When we spoke to the front desk clerk about the timing issue, she exchanged our breakfast coupons for an appetizer coupon that we could use at Amelia’s or the Newarker. (It was not an even exchange, because the quick-pick Starbucks options were worth about $10 each, and the buffet cost much more than that, whereas the appetizer coupon was worth only $12. Still, we were happy with the trade.) The hotel has a pantry store that sells non-alcoholic drinks, snacks, toiletry items, and small toys and souvenirs.

Because Amelia’s Lounge and the Newarker serve the same menu, we chose the more comfortable option and ate in relaxed bar. We shared an appetizer (calamari), a salad (beet and goat cheese), and a sandwich and French fries, and we were pleased with the quality of both the food and the service. Room service is also available 24 hours per day.

On a table in the lobby between the front desk and the bar, the hotel offers two Mac computers where guests can print a boarding pass or use the complimentary internet. (Wi-Fi is free only for Gold and Diamond HHonors status levels.) The lobby features a flight board that displays the flight times, delays, and cancellations. (Unfortunately, guests cannot access that same information from the TVs in the guest rooms.) Internet on a personal device is complimentary for some levels of HHonors members. The Hilton has an ATM machine. Many meeting / conference / banquet rooms of varying sizes are located on both the ground level and the second floor of this hotel.

An indoor swimming pool and gym are located on the second floor of the Hilton. The fitness center is open 24 hours, but the pool is open from 6:00 am to 11:00 pm only. The pool area features one wall of windows as well as a skylight, so the environment is bright in the daytime. About 12+ chairs (both lounge chairs and traditional sitting chairs) surround the pool. The hotel supplies pool towels. A Jacuzzi / hot tub is located near the pool; however, it was drained, surrounded by yellow “crime scene” tape, and out of service. Handicapped lifts are available for both the pool and the hot tub. The fitness center is small, with three treadmills, two elliptical machines, one bike, some free weights, and two universal gyms. The hotel provides small towels and a water fountain in the fitness center. The fitness center and the pool share bathrooms, but they do not contain changing cubicles or showers.

We booked a Standard room. We hoped for an upgrade because the hotel was not full and better rooms were available. (For example, each floor contains two 2-room suites.) The self-closing mechanism on the door to our room did not work, so we had to pull extremely hard on the door to close it. Otherwise, our room was in good condition. The oversized space featured one king bed backed by a headboard with built-in lighting and nightstands. Our room also contained a unique chair / ottoman combination with a built-in table on one arm, and a modern desk / TV console. Several lighting options exist in the room, and guests can flip the main switch near the bed to control all lights. The closet contained a large electronic safe. The room had only one luggage rack; however, a padded bench functioned as a second baggage stand. The bathroom was a standard hotel-size, and the hotel provided Peter Thomas Roth toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, massaging soap bar, and regular soap).

We will stay at the Hilton Newark Airport again before a flight for the right rate. The location and amenities make it worth another stay.