Belize (March 2003)

(including Belize City, Ambergris Caye, and Tikal, Guatemala)

• Day 1 (March 2, 2003): Philadelphia to Belize City on USAirways www.usairways.com
  Radisson Fort George (Radisson Hotels) www.radisson.com/belizecitybz
  Link to my review
  Lunch at Fort Street Guest House Link to my review
  Dinner at Chateau Caribbean Link to my review
• Day 2 (March 3, 2003): Belize City to Tikal, Guatemala
  Radisson Fort George
  Dinner at Smoky Mermaid Link to my review
• Day 3 (March 4, 2003): Cave Tubing at the Jaguar Paw Jungle Lodge www.jaguarpaw.com
  Radisson Fort George (Radisson Hotels)
  Dinner at Harbour View Link to my review
• Day 4 (March 5, 2003): Belize City to Ambergris Caye
  Belizean Shores www.belizeanshores.com
  Link to my review
  Dinner at Buena Vista at Captain Morgan's Link to my review
• Day 5 (March 6, 2003): Ambergris Caye, San Pedro
  Belizean Shores
  Dinner at Capricorn Link to my review
• Day 6 (March 7, 2003): : Ambergris Caye, Snorkeling Trip
  Belizean Shores
  Lunch at Sweet Basil Link to my review
  Drinks at the Palapa Bar Link to my review
  Dinner at Rendezvous Link to my review
• Day 7 (March 8, 2003): : Ambergris Caye
  Belizean Shores
  Lunch at Tamarind at Journey's End Link to my review
  Dinner at Senor Croc's Cantina Link to my review
• Day 8 (March 9, 2003): : Belize City to Philadelphia on USAirways

We stayed at the Radisson and took day trips to Tikal, Guatemala. We also went cave tubing and hiking in the jungle at the Jaguar Paw Lodge. Lastly, on March 5, 2003, we flew to Ambergris Caye for some relaxation on the beach at Belizean Shores, where we also snorkeled.

Tikal 1-Day Tour: On March 3, 2003, we took a one-day trip to Tikal through Tropic Air, which cost about $200 per person for the complete trip (including flight, bus transportation, entrance fees, tour guide, and lunch). The flight left about 8:30 am from Belize City, and arrived in Flores, Guatemala about 45 minutes later. From the airport, a guide and driver met us and transported us approximately 30 minutes to the archeological site. We spent about 3 hours touring Tikal, which provided us with enough time for a broad overview. Our return flight left around 4:00 pm, and we were relaxing back in our hotel in Belize City by 5:30 pm. We had previously been to Chichen Itza in Mexico, and Tikal is so much more amazing!

Cave Tubing at Jaguar Paw Lodge: We debated about staying at Jaguar Paw Lodge, but we were glad that we chose not to. Instead, we only visited it as part of our cave tubing excursion. The grounds were nice, but it was very isolated (no nearby hotels or restaurants). Lunch at Jaguar Paw was included in our excursion, and the food was good. The pool area is small, but pretty, and we were treated to seeing a large boa constrictor near the pool eating another snake! The lodgings are rather hidden in the foliage.

Belize: Belizean Shores (March 2003)

We stayed at Belizean Shores, which is located on the north end of Ambergris Caye, for 4 nights in March of 2003. The location is accessible only by boat or using the hand-pulled ferry. A roundd-trip ride on the water taxi for two people costs approximately $20. We liked the condo-tel concept because we were able to eat breakfast and lunch in our unit and then go out for dinner. We had a second-floor unit, which had a second bedroom in the loft, which is perfect for children. On the second floor, you also have the extra room of the large patio, dining room/living room combo (with pull-out sofa bed), kitchen, and separate bedroom and bathroom. The pool is great, and the on-site restaurant was good (now called Blue Water Grill but previously called Senor Croc’s Cantina). The pier at Belizean Shores is fairly long, and it set up for snorkeling and relaxing with loungers. We arranged a snorkel trip to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley that was fun. We walked to Capricorn, Rendezvous, Buena Vista (at Captain Morgan's), Pauly's Pizza (at Essene Way, where there was also a small mini-mart), Rendezvous, and Tamarind (at Journey's End) for dinner (but it was DARK!). We biked to Sweet Basil, Palapa Bar, Mata Chica, and Portofino during the day (as well as took our bikes across the hand ferry to San Pedro) but those would be a bit far to walk/bike/golf cart at night because the island is so dark.
My response on the Fodor's Forum regarding Belizean Shores:

I stayed at Belizean Shores in March. Request a unit on the top (second) level, and you will have that open loft. It's really pretty with all the teak wood used on the staircase and the ceiling. Heather Naro is the manager, and she is very helpful with requests and questions.The pool is really pretty at BS. We stayed by the pool most days, as did most of the other guests, so I'm not sure about swimming in the ocean. If the sea grass was particularly offensive, I'm sure I would remember seeing it. The pier at BZ is fairly long (and set up for snorkeling and relaxing with loungers), so you might avoid the sea grass that way. They were just starting to build what I thought was going to be a bar on their pier close to shore when I was there. We did take an arranged snorkel trip to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley that was quite good.Keep in mind that you are really pretty isolated on the north end of Ambergris. We loved it, but I can see how others might not, and a round-trip ride on the water taxi for two was $20. There were some great restaurants within walking distance (via the beach), so we were quite happy: Capricorn, Buena Vista (at Captain Morgan's), Pauly's Pizza (at Essene Way, where there was also a small mini-mart), Rendezvous, and Tamarind (at Journey's End). The hotel restaurant (Senor Crocs) was also surprisingly attractive with good food (don't let the name fool you).We were able to bike (free from the hotel) during the day to San Pedro using the hand ferry. We also visited the Palapa Bar and Sweet Basil. Biking to the north let us visit Portofino and Mata Chica, but these aren't places that you could walk (or bike) to at night. I think the water taxi was about $10 round trip to either of those places. (And if you aren't familiar with the Belizean water taxis, you are in for a surprise! I've used water taxi service several places in the northeastern US, but they are much smaller and wetter in Belize.)But back to your main question: I liked Belizean Shores and wouldn't hesitate to return.

Another response that I posted on Fodor's Forum regarding Belizean Shores:
We stayed at Belizean Shores a few years ago (I think the date was March of 2003). We really liked the whole condo-tel idea, since we were able to eat breakfast and lunch in our unit and then go out for dinner. We had a second-floor unit, which had a second bedroom in the loft, which your daughter mightlike, plus you have the extra room of the large patio, living room/dining room combo,kitchen, etc. The pool is great, and the onsite restaurant was fine (now called Blue Water Grill but called Crocs or something like that back then). We walked to Capricorn, Rendezvous, and Captain Morgan's for dinner (but it was DARK!). We biked to Sweet Basil, Mata Chica, and Portofino, during the day (as well as took our bikes across the hand ferry to San Pedro) but those would be a bit far to walk/bike/golf cart at night because the island is so dark. I would definitely stay at Belizean Shores again--it was quiet and secluded, which worked for us, but may not be suitable for those looking for evening entertainment, daily shopping, etc.

My response on the Fodor's Forum regarding staying on Ambergris Caye (north of the cut):
My husband and I returned from Belize three weeks ago. Portofino was one of my top choices for a hotel, along with Mata Chica. I decided against both of them, however, because neither one had a swimming pool. For us, it was the right decision because ocean swimming was less than perfect due to the sea grass. We visited both Portofino and Mata Chica, and while both are beautiful properties, they are really secluded on the north end of the island. BTW, we ended up staying at Belizean Shores (also on the north end but still on the golf cart path), where we could walk to several restaurants: Capricorn, Buena Vista (at Captain Morgan's), Senor Croc's Cantina (the hotel restaurant and much nicer than it sounds!), Rendezvous, and Tamarind (at Journey's End). We biked one day from Belizean Shores to Portofino, and it was a real stretch! No golf cart path at all, so you must use a water taxi at night if you want to dine elsewhere, which will add $20 to $40 to your dinner bill for transportation, depending on how far south you are going. We snorkeled with people who stayed at Portofino, and they seemed to really enjoy it, so maybe my opinion doesn't count!

My husband and I felt as you did, too. We knew we didn't need to be close to San Pedro town--we weren't interested in nightlife at the discos or doing any shopping on a daily basis. That's why we decided to stay north, in addition to three of the best restaurants on AC being up there (Mambo, Capricorn, and Rendezvous). We didn't mind a little seclusion, but almost complete isolation (like at Portofino or Mata Chica) is another story.

 

Belize: Senor Croc’s Cantina Grill (March 2003)

Located atop the Belizean Shores office building, Senor Croc’s Cantina Grill boasts one of the finest views on Ambergris Caye. Take in a 360 degree panoramic view while you enjoy a leisurely meal.

Belize: Palapa Bar (March 2003)

My spouse and I enjoyed drinks at the Palapa Bar & Grill in early March 2003. The bar / restaurant combines the cool Caribbean breeze with an unforgettable view. Its over-the-top location, food, drinks, and service are a “must experience” while in Belize.

Belize: Tamarind at Journey's End (March 2003)

Tamarind at Journey’s End offers a pleasing dining experience with a variety of Caribbean dishes served on an outdoor terrace with breathtaking ocean views.

Belize: Rendezvous (March 2003)

Rendezvous Restaurant and winery is located on the beach and specializes in Thai and French fusion cuisine. The restaurant produces their own wines from Chardonnays to Cabernet and Merlot. Rendezvous is known for the incredible food experience, elegant presentation, and comfortable atmosphere. You can dine inside the restaurant and bar as well as on the outside deck. Downstairs, the beach bar serves cocktails and lunch with an authentic thatch roof and a Mayan Comal oven.

Belize: Sweet Basil (March 2003)

Sweet Basil is an oasis just across the river cut to the North end of San Pedro. Take your golf cart, bikes, feet, or water taxi and enjoy fresh Greek, French and Italian salads, 20 varieties of imported cheeses and patés, pitas, veggie dishes, big juicy. burgers, deli sandwiches, and a GREAT view of the Caribbean from our upstairs deck.

Belize: Capricorn (March 2003)

At the award winning Capricorn restaurant, the food is prepared with exceptional care and attention blended with detail certain to satisfy your palate. Selections include local stone crab claws, fresh fish from local fisherman, French crepes, filet mignon with red wine and portabello mushroom sauce, homemade baked breads, and desserts such as homemade key lime pie.

Belize: Captain Morgan (Buena Vista) (March 2003)

As far as Ambergris Caye restaurants go, this is the one to beat. Both formal and informal dining are available in the form of elegant sit-down gourmet meals or sociable poolside buffets that also includes Captain Morgan’s famous barbecue lunch grilled to perfection! The extensive menu consists of exotic seafood including: coconut grilled shrimp, vegetarian dishes, fresh homemade breads, and pastries. The house burger is one of the best on Ambergris Caye with a generous portion of juicy grilled meat on a homemade bun garnished with a tropical salsa consisting of tangy pineapple and cilantro.

Belize City: Harbour View (March 2003)

Occupying the Old Customs House, a clapboard building surrounded by hibiscus bushes and palm trees, the Harbour View restaurant is the most sophisticated in town. The Asian-inflected dishes include shrimp ceviche and coconut creme brulee, and are prepared with local ingredients. Sit on the wraparound veranda to watch the city's lights glimmering on the bay.

Belize: Radisson Fort George (March 2003)

My spouse and I stayed at the Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina for 3 nights in early March 2003. This hotel is located in Belize City, and it provides easy access to the cruise terminal, major embassies, shopping, and restaurants. The hotel offers a full-service marina and dive shop, two swimming pools, and on-site dining options, including Baymen's Tavern, Stonegrill, St. George's Restaurant, and Le Petit Café. The hotel offers a fitness center and a business center. The Radisson has 102 rooms, some of which are located in the Club Tower, and others are located in the Colonial Wing or Villa Wing. (We stayed in the Villa Wing.)

Belize: Smoky Mermaid (March 2003)

The Smoky Mermaid is located on the ground floor of The Great House hotel. A small shopping gallery leads to the Smoky Mermaid, where you can dine on Caribbean-influenced seafood, pastas, and other dishes. The large dining courtyard has a fountain, shaded by breadfruit, mango, and sapodilla trees and big turquoise umbrellas. This courtyard restaurant, in a grand former mansion, is popular for its relaxed garden setting and Caribbean-accented food (cassava-crusted snapper, piña colada pie).

Belize: Fort Street Guest House (March 2003)

My spouse and I ate lunch at the Fort Street Restaurant and Guest House in early March 2003. The Fort Street Restaurant is a lovely old colonial-style residence. Surrounded by lush greenery, the manor has withstood the tests of time and nature since 1928. While “Number Four, Fort Street” is well known for its fine food, it also accommodates a small guesthouse. The front steps of the house lead up to the main floor, where you find the light and airy dining room. The dining room is surrounded by a veranda that contains tables for guests to enjoy their meals out in the fresh Caribbean breeze.

Belize: Chateau Caribbean (March 2003)

Located within the Fort area of Belize City, at the corner of Marine Parade and South Park Street, Chateau Caribbean offers impeccable service and an elegant atmosphere. The restaurant is located on the seafront in Belize City, a 5-minute walk from Baron Bliss Lighthouse and the Museum of Belize. The breezy Fort George seaside location of this hotel is its strongest point. Behind the charming colonial-style exterior (it was formerly a hospital), this well-located hotel is a prime property in Belize City. Some scenes in the 1980 movie The Dogs of War were filmed here. The second-floor restaurant has sea views, and a menu with an unusual combination of Chinese and Caribbean dishes: you can have grilled snapper with rice and beans while your dining companion tries the sweet-and-sour pork.