New York City: Ippudo Westside (May 2016)



My spouse and I enjoyed an early lunch at Ippudo West Side on a Monday morning in late May 2016. Ippudo West Side is located on West 51st Street, between 8th and 9th Avenues, in the Midtown West/Theatre District neighborhood of Manhattan. Ippudo West Side is open for lunch and dinner daily, beginning at 11:00 am. The restaurant does not accept reservations, and your entire party must be present in order for the host to seat you. When we arrived a few minutes before opening time, a waiting line of about eight people had already formed at the door; within 15 minutes of the restaurant opening, all of the tables and all of the seats at the ramen bar were occupied, so this is clearly a popular spot and you should be prepared to wait for a seat. (On a positive note, the turnover rate/time for lunch is high/quick; it did not take anyone more than an hour to eat his/her appetizers and ramen.) The capacity of the restaurant holds about 75 people at a time.

Ippudo originated in Japan in 1985. Its name means "first wind" or “one of a kind” because when the company was founded, ramen was not a popular/profitable industry, and the founder intended to "blow wind and revolutionize the era". In 2008, the first overseas Ippudo restaurant opened in the East Village of NY; then in 2013, the Midtown West location opened. Today, Ippudo has nearly 70 restaurants worldwide; besides Japan and the United States, branches are located in Singapore, Hong Kong, and London.

Ippudo Westside occupies a large space, despite its sub-street-level location. (The bar area has windows, so the restaurant is not completely underground.) You must descend three or four concrete steps from the sidewalk to enter the restaurant, so it may be difficult for the mobility-impaired. “Noren”, short linen curtains inked with Japanese symbols, greet you at the doorway. A teak bar is located near the front door, with restrooms positioned around the corner. When you approach the host stand, you can request either bar/counter or table/dining room seating. The 20-foot long ramen bar (with a narrow walkway for servers between the two sides) allows you a glimpse into the bustling kitchen. The dining room offers tables in many sizes/configurations.

When guests enter the restaurant to be seated, the whole staff yells a Japanese welcome; all the staff joins in this traditional honorific shouting of “irasshaimase”. The wait staff continue to shout expressions as they exit the kitchen area to deliver food, but we are not sure what they were saying!

Ippudo’s Tonkotsu broth, a pork-bone soup that the restaurant makes from scratch, takes two days to prepare because it is boiled for 26 hours. The West Side location supplies the soup and noodles for the East Village restaurant. To start, we shared the yamitsuki goma kyuri (Japanese cucumber slices sprinkled with sesame-oil sauce) and the Hirata steamed pork buns (which include pork slices, spicy sauce, mayonnaise, and lettuce). Both appetizers were delicious – we loved the unique cucumber dish; however, truthfully, we think that David Chang’s pork buns are even better than Ippudos. As our entrees, we ordered two different kinds of ramen: tori-shio (clear chicken-pork broth, with noodles, pork, onion, bamboo shoots, and chili pepper, topped with a soft-boiled egg for $2 extra) and the shiromaru Hakata classic (Tonkotsu pork soup, with noodles, pork, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions, and pickled ginger, topped with an egg for another $2). We recommend trying the Tonkotsu broth over the clear broth; it was more savory and flavorful, worthy of its long preparation time. If you finish your noodles but still have enough broth left, you can request “kae-dama” from your server, who will give you an extra serving of noodles; our server offered this without our even asking, but we were full at that point. No one suggested dessert, so we assumed that the restaurant does offer any (or perhaps no one eats dessert at lunchtime?). From what we read online, the dinner menu is more extensive than the lunch menu, with more appetizer options, but for first-time visitors like us, it was probably better to visit at lunchtime and have a more limited menu. Despite the large crowds waiting for seats, our server was patient and polite. We had some difficulty getting the slippery noodles from our bowls and onto the soup spoons using the slick chopsticks, but that only made us eat more slowly and savor our food. As we glanced around the ramen bar, other patrons seemed to use a multitude of techniques to get the food from their bowls into their mouths, which made for an interesting sight!

We would be happy to visit Ippudo again in the future, either at the West Side location or at the property in the East Village.










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