Showing posts with label Caribbean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Caribbean. Show all posts

Anguilla: Straw Hat at Frangipani (April 2016)

My spouse and I dined at Straw Hat for lunch on a weekday in late April 2016. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, although reservations are accepted for dinner only. Off-street complimentary parking is available in the hotel parking lot, which is used both by hotel guests and restaurant patrons.

Straw Hat, located at the Frangipani Resort, offers panoramic views of Meads Bay from the restaurant deck. (The pale-pink Mediterranean-style Frangipani property is our first choice of lodging should we ever return to Anguilla. On this visit, we stayed at Cuisinart, which was too large, impersonal, and all-inclusive-feeling for our taste.) Note that although the Straw Hat restaurant has been in business since the mid-1990s, it was not always located at Frangipani Resort. Previously, it occupied space in Forest Bay until 2008. The Straw Hat restaurant appeared on Conde Nast Traveler’s “50 Best New Restaurants in the World” list in 1999, and it has been a hit with customers ever since. Straw Hat, like nearly all waterside restaurants on Anguilla, is primarily open-air, with tables positioned on the deck under a roof as well as out in the open beneath palm trees (the exposed tables use umbrellas for shade during the daytime). The restaurant also keeps a few tables “indoors” near the small bar. If you dine at the restaurant, you are invited to use their complimentary beach chairs and umbrellas (however, restaurant guests may NOT use the lovely beachside pool at Frangipani). Chandeliers that utilize straw hats as shades are an adorable decorative touch, in keeping with the name of the restaurant, and some of the servers wear large straw hats as well. The restaurant must be even more attractive at night, lit by candles and white string lights.

Straw Hat serves Caribbean and American cuisine, and it is delicious! We had some of our tastiest food of our entire 9-day Caribbean trip during our lunch at Straw Hat. (In fact, our food was so good that we debated returning on another day, although we did not because we wanted to try a variety of restaurants instead.) We shared the delicious conch fritters as a starter, which the chef served with tomato jam/relish. As main dishes, we ordered the shrimp/lobster taco starter (which was fantastic; the tacos were topped with mango crème fraiche and aioli, as well as herbs and shredded veggies) and the curried goat entrée (Straw Hat was the only restaurant on Anguilla that offered goat on the menu, so we there was no question that we would order it; the delectable dish was served with rice and peas). For dessert, we shared the yummy Kahlua ice cream pie (with a chocolate cookie crust and toasted almonds).

Our lunch at Straw Hat was one of our favorite meals on Anguilla – gorgeous scenery, great food, and attentive staff.















Anguilla: Cafe Mediterraneo at CuisinArt (April 2016)

My spouse and I dined at Café Mediterraneo at Cuisinart Resort on three mornings of our 4-night stay at the resort in late April 2016. (We dined on the terrace of our suite on our last morning.) Café Med is open for breakfast and lunch daily.

Café Med is located at the center of the resort, and it enjoys a poolside view. Tables are arranged under a white tensioned awning, with sides that staff can roll down in inclement weather (they are also rolled down overnight, after the tables are set for the next morning’s breakfast and the staff goes home). Tables are royal blue wrought iron, which are heavy so they are less likely to blow away in strong winds. Chair cushions are yellow, in keeping with the blue-and-yellow color scheme that is present throughout the public spaces and the accommodations of the hotel. Overhead fans keep the air circulating in the open-air Café Med. An old restored rowboat called the “Miss Med” is positioned outside the restaurant and provides a nice photo op. Because all room packages include complimentary daily breakfast, the hotel can accurately predict how many customers to expect for breakfast; it seems that the staff sets just the right number of tables with exactly the right configurations and number of places the evening before.

For packages that include continental breakfast, guests help themselves from buffet tables set up beneath the center of the awning. Wait staff delivers coffee and tea, however. You can also order the meat-and-cheese plate from the wait staff, although you must know to ask for it – the restaurant does not advertise that it comes complimentary with the buffet. Even when we did order it along with our coffee, we always had to remind the waiter/waitress before we received it. (The plate contained two different kinds of cheeses and two kinds of meat, with two slices of each item.) The buffet items are set up on three tables: one table contains cold juices (two kinds) and ice water. A second table contains various pastries (we loved the johnnycakes and the little French crown rolls [possibly called a kouign-amann], as well as the banana bread; also included were croissants, pan au chocolat, mini muffins, carrot bread) as well as sliced tomatoes and cucumbers grown in the resort’s hydroponic garden, yogurt, granola, tiny boxes of pre-packaged American cereal, and milk. The third table held fresh-cut fruit (six different varieties, including orange, grapefruit, cantaloupe, honeydew, and pineapple) and whole fruits (like bananas, apples, and oranges). The restaurant serves the cut fruits in ceramic tagines, so you must remove the cover to make your selections; however, there is nowhere to place the cover while you are balance your plate while trying to use a utensil to serve yourself. (There are some glass vases/sleeves on this same table that occupy valuable space; if the hotel moved these decorative objects elsewhere, it would make the fruit table much more user-friendly.)

Service at Café Med was appalling, which is difficult because it is a buffet and there is not much for the wait staff to do other than bring hot beverages, non-complimentary menu items (like eggs, omelets, waffles and pancakes priced at about $20 each, and smoothies priced around $10 each), and clear dirty dishes. The male workers tried to be personable, but the women working the breakfast at Café Med displayed some of the most unfriendly, unsmiling faces that we encountered during our 9-day trip to the Caribbean. The women truly made breakfast unpleasant with their sour expressions. We had difficulty receiving the meat and cheese plate every time that we ordered it, having to re-order it a second, third, and fourth time on some days.

We expected great food and service from the Cuisinart resort, and our breakfasts at Café Med did not deliver. (However, our breakfasts at Café Med provided a sharp contrast to our phenomenal dinner at Tokyo Bay on our last evening, which was exceptionally good in every way; see our separate review.)







Anguilla: Restaurant at Malliouhana (April 2016)

My spouse and I dined for dinner at The Restaurant at Malliouhana on a weekday night in late April 2016. The hotel’s main restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We drove to Malliouhana from our hotel (Cuisinart), but when we arrived, there was no valet to park the car, so we drove past the lobby and up an incredibly dark hill to find our own parking spot, which was not a welcoming arrival. We made a reservation for dinner via email, although when we arrived at the restaurant, we were disappointed that they did not have our booking, despite having an email confirmation. The restaurant was empty and remained rather empty during our dinner, so the missing reservation was not a problem, but it was a poor beginning to our dining experience.

The open-air restaurant is perched on a cliff-side that overlooks Meads Bay and the Caribbean Sea, providing a beautiful vantage point from which to dine. At night, you can see the lights from other Meads Bay restaurants and hotels like Blanchard’s, Jacala, Straw Hat, and the Viceroy. The entire Malliouhana resort reopened in 2014 after a three-year closure and total renovation. (The lobby and public spaces that lead to the restaurant are dazzling and unique in their décor and architecture.) In the restaurant, dark wood floors, blue pendant lights, shaded chandeliers, white columns, and ropes strung along the ceiling and handrails lend an attractive nautical feel to this open-air chic space. The white wicker/rattan chairs sport blue-and-white striped cushions; however, the chairs themselves are a bit narrow (they were tighter than the standard economy airline seat, for example). It looks like there is additional uncovered terrace space on which one could dine, although we did not notice any tables and chairs there. The menus are backlit so that you can see more clearly in the dimly candlelit restaurant. (Neat! We have not seen those menus in person before!) Restrooms are located a bit far from the restaurant, but in a convenient midway point between the restaurant, the Sunset Bar, and the swimming pools. A guitar player provided entertainment during part of our meal, but sadly, his shift ended before we were finished eating.

The restaurant serves upscale American cuisine with an emphasis on seafood. We received an amuse bouche from the chef; although we cannot recall what it was, we do remember that it was beautifully presented and set a good tone for the quality of our meal. We did not order a starter on the evening that we dined; however, most starters were seafood-based: sardines, lobster, crayfish, calamari, octopus, plus soups and salads. For our main courses, we ordered the organic chicken (served “Hainanese” style, which meant that it came accompanied by little bowls of scallions, broth, and white rice, but without instructions on how to actually eat the dish) and the yellowtail snapper (served with shrimp, mussels, clams, and calamari). For dessert, we shared the vanilla panna cotta with sangria topping.

Wait staff was friendly, but they did not seem overly confident in what they were doing. (The service at Malliouhana is a bit more formal than other restaurants on the island, so perhaps with time the comfort level will change.) Overall, even with a few baubles, we enjoyed our time at The Restaurant at Malliouhana.
















Anguilla: Sunshine Shack (April 2016)

My spouse and I enjoyed drinks at Garvey's Sunshine Shack several times during our 4-night stay at nearby Cuisinart Resort, both of which are located in Rendezvous Bay. The Sunshine Shack is a short walk on the beach from CuisinArt (and a much longer walk by paved road). Opened in 2008, the Shack features rustic wooden and plastic chairs and tables (some of which are wooden picnic tables with benches) that are arranged under and surrounding the covered bar area. The bar contains only a service window; there are not any stools on which to sit while drinking and dining as you would at a traditional bar. Good Caribbean/reggae music plays throughout the small, wooden, white-painted shack that is decorated with red, green, and gold, the posts and ceiling of which are graffitied with guest messages. If you plan to eat or drink at the Sunshine Shack, you can use their complimentary beach chairs and umbrellas. We were impressed with the fantastic condition of the colorful beach umbrellas (in comparison with the tattered umbrellas at our resort Cuisinart), as well as the nicely maintained beach in front of the Sunshine Shack that was free of seaweed (again, in comparison to the Cuisinart resort, which had piles of ugly seaweed on what should have been a beautiful beach). While we were at Sunshine Shack, two of its employees raked the beach free of seaweed and buried it in deep holes on the beach, showing true pride of ownership and employment (which is what the employees of Cuisinart should also try to demonstrate). Garvey himself always seems to be present, offering a handshake and a smile and friendly service.

The Sunshine Shack drink called a BBC was delicious (frozen Baileys, banana, and coconut)! One afternoon for lunch, we shared a combination meal of barbecued chicken and ribs, served alongside rice with peas, cole slaw, and a small salad. The Sunshine Shack serves simple yet tasty meals, and you cannot find a more beautiful location and view.

So put your feet in the sand at one of their eclectic tables, gaze out across the water to neighboring St Martin, and enjoy the good food and yummy drinks. This beach shack is a real winner, in our opinion!






Anguilla: Trattoria Tramonto (April 2016)

My spouse and I dined for lunch at Trattoria Tramonto on a weekday afternoon in late April 2016. The restaurant is located on the far West End of the island at Shoal Bay, near CoveCastles and adjacent to Blue Waters Apartments. Trattoria Tramonto is open daily for lunch and dinner except Mondays. The restaurant offers complimentary parking in a dedicated parking lot.

The beach at Trattoria Tramonto had the most beautiful sand and water that we saw on all of Anguilla; in addition, the views of neighboring islands St Martin and Saba are fantastic! As with most beachside restaurants on Anguilla, Trattoria Tramonto allows its restaurant guests to use their complimentary beach chairs and umbrellas, some of which are set beneath swaying palm trees. If you need a drink but you cannot tear yourself away from the beach, you can grab a cold one at Trattoria Tramonto’s Oasis Beach bar, located near the main building.

The restaurant interior of Trattoria Tramonto is white, with décor in shades of aqua, teal, and blue. The effect is crisp, clean, and beautiful! Vaulted white wood ceilings feature hanging paper lanterns in tones of white, aqua, and blue, and large windows with blue shades complete the look. Near the front door, the restaurant boasts a wall of fame, including previous guests such as Liam Neeson, Bridget Moynahan, Bill Clinton, Robert DeNiro, and so on. More celebrity photos are posted on their website; in fact, their website seems to promote their famous clientele even more than it promotes their restaurant and their food. The restaurant offers seating in the main building, where the dining room is open-air on the sides (but still protected by a roof), in the bar area, or in two oases on the sand (one that features a large table for a big group of diners, and the other that contains the outdoor beach bar).

The Trattoria Tramonto menu features Italian and Caribbean-inspired cuisine. The restaurant serves delicious bread and dipping oil while you peruse the menu. We ordered the wild boar panini, pasta Bolognese, and three rounds of drinks and two bottles of water, and our bill totaled $80, which we thought was a fair price (and comparable to what we would spend for a similar lunch back in the United States).

We enjoyed our lunch at Trattoria Tramonto – the restaurant was attractive, the beach and ocean panorama were gorgeous, the service was thoughtful and attentive, and the food was good!















St Barth: Le Sereno (April 2016)

My spouse and I stayed at Le Sereno Hotel, Villas, and Spa for four nights in late April 2016. We booked our reservation online through the hotel’s website; however, we could have also reserved our stay through the Leading Hotels of the World website. The hotel required pre-payment for 75% of our stay (3 of 4 nights); if you need to cancel, you must do so 30 days in advance. (Other St Barths and Anguilla, we have never encountered such a strict cancellation policy before!)

Located within the protected reserves of Grand Cul-de-Sac, Marigot Bay, and Marechal Beach (three of the five zones that comprise the island’s 2,500-acre Reserve Naturelle Marine Park), Le Sereno enjoys a cove location that is usually breezy. The hotel property is located approximately 15 minutes from the airport, and 20 minutes from Gustavia (Gustavia is about 5 minutes further west than the airport). The hotel features a freshwater swimming pool, a sundeck, a gourmet restaurant (serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner), a bar/lounge area within the restaurant, and two spa rooms (by Sothys). French designer Christian Liaigre, who is famous for his architecture and interior and furniture design, redecorated the entire Le Sereno property during its most recent renovation. (Liaigre has designed residences for Calvin Klein and Karl Lagerfeld as well as hotels and restaurants including the Mercer Hotel and Buddakan restaurant in New York). For Le Sereno, he designed all of the furniture, lighting fixtures, and accessories. (The designer has a shop in Gustavia.)

Le Sereno offers 36 suites and 3 large four-bedroom villas, each of which has a private terrace and/or garden. The suites and villas are positioned along 600 feet of beach at Grand Cul-de-Sac, and most units offer a view of the water. The hotel offers a beach with attendants, water sports equipment (two person kayaks and stand-up paddleboards), fitness center (a small facility located in a former guestroom with about five pieces of equipment, towels, and bottled water), private airport transfers, and VIP reception and assistance with customs at the Sint Maarten Airport. The hotel loans beach chairs, umbrellas, and coolers (which they fill with ice and Evian water) if you want to visit alternate beaches on the island. Attendants at the pool bar will set up your lounge chairs by spreading towels and bringing a clear plastic bag filled with ice and bottled water (which is NOT complimentary, FYI, so be sure to sign your bar bill for the water). Le Sereno offers Porthault sheets, towels, and robes, and Ex Voto Paris toiletries.

Breakfast is included with your room rate, which includes fresh-squeezed orange or grapefruit juice, coffee and tea, fresh fruit salad, pastry basket (with two croissants, two pain au chocolat, two pastries, and two rolls), yogurt (either plain, vanilla, or coconut, which comes in little glass bottles – how very cute and French!), granola cereal, and a choice of two eggs any way you like, including omelets. (We ordered only cheese omeletes, but you can add other ingredients; however, we are not sure if there is a charge for additional ingredients, because there is a charge for some menu items, although for the most part, it is clear which items are not complimentary because you are offered a menu with prices.) You can order breakfast to your room at no charge, which we did on the morning of our departure; the girls who delivered it set it up nicely on our back terrace table, including placemats and all appropriate utensils. The evening turndown service leaves a menu on your bed so that you can order breakfast.

We booked a Villa Vue Mer suite, one of only two such suites at Le Sereno. Note that the two Villa Vue Mer suites are located almost as far as possible from the main public areas of the hotel, and also require you to walk up a small hill, so they are not the best choice for a guest who is mobility impaired.

We could have lived in our 900-square foot Villa Vue Mer cottage forever! You enter into the suite in the living room; next to the front door is a half-bathroom (powder room) and a small closet (with a large umbrella, which we never needed) and another closet that holds the electronic safe (large enough to hold a small laptop) and the bar area, which also features a bookshelf filled with books (in many different languages),the minibar, and some additional shelf/counter/drawer space. The minibar was refilled daily with two bottles of juice (apple and orange), two sparkling waters, two regular Evian waters, two soft drinks (one Coke and one Sprite), and two beers. The champagne in the fridge was not complimentary, and three additional “pay” alcohol options were on the shelf above, along with three (non-complimentary) snack items (such as potato crisps and candy). A menu with prices (including the complimentary items) is provided, so you know what is gratis and what is not. The hotel also provides a flashlight (torch), matches, insect repellant, and a battery-operated insect swatter in this sundry closet. (Note that we had no issue with mosquitos, not in our room nor anywhere else on the island while we were there in late April.) A Nespresso/coffee machine was available upon request. Internet was complimentary, and the connection worked fairly well most (but not all) of the time.

The living room held a very long comfortable stuffed sofa and chair, and a desk and chair was built along one wall. (The desk chair was interesting because it seemed to be made of twigs, but its back was too high to fit under the desk, so it had to remain pulled out and angled into the room.) A large floor-standing mirror, side table, coffee table, and assorted lights completed the look, which was done in whites and grays like everything else in the hotel. (Only the floors of our suite were a darker wood.) The ceilings in the suite were vaulted and painted white, so it was restful and relaxing. Both the living room and the bedroom had their own air-conditioning units and ceiling fans, so the temperature was always deliciously cool.

The separate bedroom features a four-poster mosquito-netted canopy bed. (The evening turndown service released the netting, and the morning maid service secured it again.) The bedroom contained two closets: one closet in which you could hang longer items (like a maxi-dress), and the other closet that held shorter items (like a skirt or shirt). The “shorter” closet was built into the wall recess, and held the second TV (with seven English channels and seven French stations) as well as a DVD player and some drawer space. A nightstand on either side of the king-size bed held a lamp; one bedside table also held a cordless phone (a second corded phone was on the desk in the living room). The bed had individual reading lamps on mounted each side. The hotel website mentions that iPods and docking stations are in the rooms (with iPads and iPad docking stations available upon request), but we did not have an iPod docking station in our suite (fortunately we travel with our own portable speaker). Thick curtains (which housekeeping drew at night) kept light from entering the bedroom (and living room) when we were sleeping.

The master bathroom was located off the bedroom, but it was integrated into it by way of two sets of louvered doors that you could open or close as necessary. The louvered doors led directly to the large soaking bathtub, with the sink and separate glass-walled shower off to one side, and the enclosed water closet/toilet (with a separate door) off to the other side of the bathtub. Oddly, neither the toilet room nor the half-bathroom located off the living room had glass in the windows (just screens), so those two rooms remained quite hot and steamy while the rest of the (air-conditioned and glass-windowed) suite was cool. The bathroom was beautiful and spa-like, with the same dark wood floors as the rest of the suite, but with a granite/slate sink/vanity that held plenty of towels (including beach towels for our outdoor hot tub), as well as a selection of larger-than-average-sized toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion by Ex Voto Paris, body pouf). The hotel provides a hair dryer, as well bathrobes and better-than-average slippers.

Our Villa Vue Mer suite also featured about 300 feet of private outdoor space, including an area beneath a canopy (with a 2-person daybed and a small table with four chairs), an area exposed to the sky (with two reclining lounge chairs), and our own private redwood hot tub (which could have sat at least 6 people with its 6-foot diameter). The outdoor furniture was wooden with dark grey cushions. On occasion, the resort’s cat Cookie came to visit us on our terrace. (We are cat lovers who were missing our own pets, so Cookie was a welcomed visitor!) Cookie (who had sort of calico markings) was friendly and wanted human interaction, but another cat (black and white) who came to visit was very skittish and only observed us from a distance.

One of the only issues we had were the bed pillows – too few, and although they seemed to be good-quality feather pillows, they became too compressed during the night. (In retrospect, we should have just requested a few more pillows from housekeeping.) We also had tremendous difficulty locking our front door. The four sets of French doors (two sets in the living room and two sets in the bedroom) also had an odd way of locking where you had to hold the handle at an angle while twisting the knob, but we eventually figured that out; however, the front door lock continued to trouble us throughout our stay. We joked that when someone from the front desk gave us our initial tour of our suite, what we did not need her to point out was the minibar, but what we did need her to demonstrate was how to lock and unlock the doors and turn off the bedside reading lamps! Otherwise, our suite was just perfect!

Housekeeping service was attentive during the day and at night, and the evening turndown was actually performed while we were at dinner. So many times in the United States, the turndown knock comes at 6:00 pm, when we are showering and dressing, so we generally send them away in order to not be disturbed; the turndown in St Barths was done at exactly the right time – while we were out of the room!

The hotel offers a welcome gift with most rooms of a beach bag and white Havaianas flip flops. (We noticed that other hotels on St Barth also provide their guests with beach bags, so the gift offers free advertising.) We also received a chilled bottle of champagne in our suite to welcome us, along with a hand-written note.

In the surrounding area in Grand Cul-de-Sac near Le Sereno, restaurant O’Corail is located next door on the beach. Watersports operator Ouanalao Dive Center is located behind (and associated with) O’Corail. Walking up the beach, you will next encounter restaurant La Gloriette, then a smaller 6-room hotel (called Ondines Sur La Plage), and the (now shuttered) Le Club Lafayette before observing the construction at the new Le Barthelemy Hotel & Spa, which will be an amazing property when it is complete, although that does not seem to be anytime soon! (We think that this new hotel is on the site of the now defunct St Barth Beach Hotel [and Le Rivage restaurant]). Le Guanahani (with its restaurants/bars Bartolomeo, L’Indigo, and Bar’to) is located on the opposite side of Le Sereno; however, due to the rocky cliff between the two hotels on which rooms are perched, it is not possible to walk to Guanahani because the beach is non-existent. Nor is it suggested to walk to Guanahani on the road, because it is narrow, twisty, and without any sidewalk. The only other hotel/restaurant nearby is Yo Sushi Mani (at the Villa Lodge 4 Epices); we could see the sign pointing the way there from the main road, but we do not know how far up in elevation you would need to travel to reach it. Grand Cul-de-Sac offers just the sort of peace and serenity that we were looking for when we booked our room there.

We loved Le Sereno, and we especially loved our Villa Vue Mer suite. We will always remember the hotel and our room as one of our favorites in all our years of travel!