Brushstroke, which opened in 2011, is located in TriBeCa at
the corner of Hudson and Duane Streets. This location previously housed
restaurants such as Danube and Secession, which were also created by chef owner
David Bouley. Namesake restaurant Bouley is located just across the street.
David Bouley trained great chefs like Dan Barber, Anita Lo, and Eric Ripert.
David Bouley currently operates Brushstroke, Bouley, and private event spaces Bouley Botanical and Bouley Test Kitchen.
The Brushstroke space is elegant, decorated in steel, stone,
and wood, reminiscent of a Shinto shrine, with rice paper curtains on the
bottom half of the windows, so that light can still enter but gawkers on the
street cannot observe. A large chef’s counter (where we sat) dominates the
dining room, and if you choose to sit here, you can observe the workings of the
kitchen. Many tables of different sizes and shapes are available if you choose
to dine traditionally.
Brushstroke features Japanese kaiseki cuisine, which serves
a series of focused, intricately composed dishes. Instructors from the Tsuji
Culinary Institute in Osaka, Japan, prepare the food. Two tasting menus are
available along with an a la carte sushi menu for the bar. Brushstroke has a
full bar, and we ordered a Japanese beer and a non-alcoholic elderflower drink
to start.
We ordered the lunch kaiseki menu, which included four
courses for $45. First, we received an interesting divided plate that contained
a 3-item amuse bouche. Next, for our Zensai course, we ordered the scallop
(with orange clam, trout caviar, green apple foam, and served in a clear
dessert-type glass) and the sashimi assortment (which was worth the $35
supplement). For our shusai (main dishes), we ordered the Chilean sea bass
(with tomato yuan-yaki and brown shrimp), and the octopus (with squid ink sauce
and leek vinegar). Our main rice entrees were the beef cheek (with egg-don) and
the sasanoha sushi (with smoked salmon, and red miso kobia wrapped in banana
leaves). Brushstroke serves desserts a la carte; they are not part of the
tasting menu. We could not decide between the pudding and the green tea ice
cream. Although we ordered one, the restaurant delivered both because we were
celebrating a birthday.
Our kaiseki lunch at Brushstroke was superb! It
was an amazing presentation of unique ingredients and dishes in a beautiful
atmosphere.
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