Atera, which opened in 2012, is located on Worth Street in
Tribeca. The restaurant offers no glaring signage from the street; just a
low-key entry shared with a few other businesses. Our confirmation email said
that there is no sign for Atera – yet there is a small sign – and to look for
the blue awning – but there was no awning, blue or otherwise – when we visited.
A basement cocktail bar is open to dinner guests only. (At one time in previous
years, the bar was open to the public, but no longer.) The chic space features wood paneling and potted foliage
(one wall contains an arrangement of potted plants to resemble a forest).
Guests dine at a U-shaped slate-colored concrete counter open to the kitchen
without the traditional finery of tablecloths, menus, and sometimes even
without utensils. Frosted windows prevent passersby from gazing in. Even the
restroom is spotlessly maintained, with a staff member freshening it between
each guest’s use.
Atera describes itself as an immersive sensory
dining experience. The Danish chef trained at El Bulli,
Mugaritz, and Noma, and he serves modern American cuisine. Their
18-bite (“blind” so you do not make any choices) tasting menu (the only menu
option) costs $235 per person, which includes gratuity but not tax or
beverages. We ordered one nonalcoholic “temperance” cocktail pairing, which was
amazing in both the creativity and complexity of drinks, and in the flair and
flourish with which they were prepared and delivered. Atera holds two Michelin
stars.
Our tasting menu courses included the following dishes:
8.
Lobster with
celeriac, tomato, yuzu
9.
Whole wheat batard
with butter and cheese
10. Summer vegetables with quail egg yolk and cheddar
11. Squab with chanterelle, cherry, and black currant
leather
12. Beef with zucchini and garlic scape
13. Toasted hay with raspberry and elderflower
Chocolate-covered
rhubarb ice cream popsicle
15. chocolate, blueberry tart, miso
caramel, orange flower, and flodeboller
Extra dessert: mini-chocolate birthday cake
Our
temperance pairing included the following drinks:
1.
Cham”pine” with
douglas fir
2.
Grapefruit “martini”
with lemon verbena
3.
Cucumber fizz with
lime, seaweed
4.
“No”groni with
juniper gin, quinine “Campari”, sultana “vermouth”
5.
Cote de “beet”
with black currant, thyme
6.
Milkshake with
yuzu, green almond
We enjoyed our dinner at Atera; in particular,
we loved sitting at the counter to observe the chefs plating dishes, and the
amazingly inventive non-alcoholic pairing. Also, everyone at the restaurant
repeatedly wished us a Happy Birthday, which made the evening even more
memorable.
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