Cusco: Inka Grill (August 2005)

While Inka Grill isn't as revolutionary as it was when it first opened in 1998, back when Cusco had no nice restaurants whatsoever, it remains a dependable option. The two-level space, right on the plaza, is filled with antiques and candle sculptures, which have spent a decade piling up one on top of the other. Few dishes are overly exotic, as the menu tries to present Andean ingredients in familiar ways. Quinoa is served as a risotto, with chunks of chicken breast spiced with ají panca. A traditional ayaviri lamb stew comes with mashed potatoes. There are also pizzas, sandwiches, pastas, and salads, all with just the slightest touch of the Andes.