Peru (August 2005)

(including Lima, Cusco, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley)

• Day 1: Newark to Lima on Continental Airlines (Business/First)
  www.continental.com
• Day 2: Lima to Cusco
  Monasterio Hotel (Orient-Express Hotels)
• Day 3: Cusco to Aguas Calientes
  Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (Orient-Express Hotels)
• Day 4: Aguas Calientes to Cusco
  Novotel Cusco (Accor Hotels)
• Day 5: Sacred Valley Tour (Chincheros, Ollantaytambo, Pisac)
  Novotel Cusco (Accor Hotels)
  
  
  
  
• Day 6: Cusco Tour (Sacsayhuaman, Quenko, Koricancha)
  Novotel Cusco (Accor Hotels)
   
• Day 7: Cusco Sightseeing
  Lunch at Baghdad Cafe
  Novotel Cusco (Accor Hotels)
• Day 8: Cusco to Lima
  JW Marriott Lima (Marriott Hotels
  
  
  
  
• Day 9: Lima Sightseeing
  JW Marriott Lima (Marriott Hotels)
• Day 10: Lima to Newark on Continental Airlines (Business/First)

Restaurants:

• Link to my review of Blueberry Lounge
• Link to my review of Inka Grill
• Link to my review of MAP Cafe
• Link to my review of Pachacutec Grill and Bar
• Link to my review of Vivaldino

Hotels:

• Link to My Review of the JW Marriott Lima
• Link to My Review of the Novotel Cusco
• Link to My Review of the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge
• Link to My Review of the Hotel Monasterio

I completely agree with lifelist: it will take you a minimum of 3 days due to the early flights into Cuzco arriving too late to make the train to MP and the train from MP arriving back too late to Cuzco to fly back to Lima.

I believe the entrance fee to MP has risen to $25 per person per day. I think the backpacker now costs about $85 from Cusco, with the Vistadome costing $102 and the Hiram Bingham $435 (which includes meals and entrance fees).

 We used Taca to fly one way and Lan Peru to fly the other. Taca was a lot cheaper, but only had one flight per day, whereas Lan had many. I believe that we paid about $65 per person one-way on Taca and $95 per person one-way on Lan.

 It's very inexpensive to eat in both Aguas Calientes and Cusco, so you won't need to budget a lot for food.

Sweaters are everywhere, it just depends on the quality that you want. I got a great lesson on the differences in quality of llama, baby llama, alpaca, baby alpaca, vicunya, with samples of each shown. You can really tell the difference. For a 100% baby alpaca sweater (plain, one color, V-neck or crew neck), plan on spending about $75. Sweaters with unique designs were selling for $120. (They were giving about a $5 discount for paying cash versus using credit cards.) For lesser quality, there were tons of sweaters sold on the streets and at the markets in Pisac and Chinchero, but they were acrylic blends that were machine made. Those could be purchased for about $20. But once you see how nice the handmade ones are, it´s tough to settle for something cheaper.

I just returned at the end of August from Peru, including Lima, Cusco, and Machu Picchu. Definitely take the Machu Picchu trip! The Hiram Bingham train looked really luxurious sitting in the station. We took the Vistadome train on Peru Rail instead because the HB didn't run on Sundays, and that was the only night that we could get a reservation at the Sanctuary Lodge. The Orient-Express hotels in Peru are beautiful. You might be staying at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge if the trip is organized by Orient-Express, although it only has 33 rooms and is often booked a year in advance. The only other hotel of that quality is down the hill in Aguas Calientes and is called the Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. It is larger than the MPSL, and many people say they like it better except for the fact that it isn't right onsite at the ruins. On second thought, you will probably do a day trip to MP on the HB. I think it leaves Cusco about 9:00 am and returns about 9:00 pm. In that case, you might be staying at the Orient-Express hotel in Cusco called the Monasterio, which someone mentioned previously. We stayed there, too, and it was fabulous. Orient-Express is really pricey, though, as I'm sure you are aware. The HB train was $421 per person (that included 2 meals and admission to the ruins), 1 night at the MPSL was $567 (although that included 3 meals per person), and the Monasterio was $385 per night. Still, it is an experience that you will never forget and will be worth the money (which must be running you about $600 per person for train and hotel). As for Lima, I liked it more than I thought I would (I had heard the horror stories, too), but we didn't do any museums there (we ARE museum people, but are primarily interested in French Impressionist art which wasn't found there). There's no contest, however. Lima is like any big city anywhere in the world, while Cusco and MP are from another era. You can check out the www.orient-express.com or www.perurail.com websites for more information on the hotels and trains.

 They stored luggage at the entrance when I visited last August. We stayed at the Sanctuary Lodge, so we didn't actually USE the storage facilities, but they seemed secure and well-organized.

We had trouble exchanging several $100 bills in Peru last August. We went to several national banks, as well as local cambios, without any luck. Apparently, we had a series of new bills that was recently put into circulation, and the serial numbers didn't appear on any valid list of numbers that they had. We had no problem using them once we got back to the US, but it did leave us a bit short on cash while vacationing. I guess I should ask for older bills next time.

I travelled by train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes in August of 2005. I seem to recall that if you are picking up the train tickets at the station (which isn't the actual station that the train leaves from, by the way), that you must go the day before your trip, not the day of. We flew from Lima to Cusco on a Saturday, I believe, which was the day before our train trip to Machu Picchu. I think that the ticket office closed at noon on Saturdays, before we even arrived in Cusco, making it impossible for us to pick up our tickets. Our only option was for the hotel to arrange the tickets, which they did, and we were also able to charge them to our room, which was nice. We stayed at the Monasterio, which may have helped, since both the hotel, and the train to MP are owned by Orient-Express, and we were also staying at the Sanctuary Lodge once we arrived in MP--another O-E property. On the other hand, we stayed at the Novotel in Cusco upon our return, and I feel confident that they, too, could have arranged the train tickets for us. I think that I tried to do just what you are asking--find a local agency to get the tickets--but I didn't have any luck (but that was nearly a year ago). Just please verify everything beforehand--you wouldn't want anything to negatively impact what will be an absolutely incredible trip!

Lima: Restaurant Vista al Mar (August 2005)

In the heart of Miraflores is Restaurant Vista Mar. The restaurant offers more than 100 different dishes, as well as an option to enjoy a visit and experience the flavors of the sea. The dishes here are prepared with seafood and fish from the region accompanied by vegetables and salads of different flavors and colors. A signature dish is the shrimp risotto, to be savored with a glass of wine. Because of its location and design, this restaurant is perfect to celebrate special occasions, with its spacious lounges and tables for two, four, and eight people and gastronomic menu. Each dish has a special presentation, which highlight the colors of each of the preparations and mixtures. Shellfish can be seen either with coconut sauce, rice, salad, and plantains. One of the most requested dishes is the sole ceviche with onions and chili ariquipeña. A place where the food, service, and decor are the perfect sett ingfor dinner any day.

Lima: La Vaca Loca (August 2005)

La Vaca Loca (which means "The Crazy Cow") is located in Miraflores, Larcomar, and boasts beautiful panoramic views of Lima and its beaches, shopping areas, and entertainment. The restaurant seats 60 diners, and features a bar to enjoy cocktails, snacks, and dishes of your choice.

Lima: Cafe Haiti (August 2005)

While there are many cafés in Lima, perhaps none is as emblematic as the Cafe Haiti, which first opened its doors in 1962. Overlooking the main park in Miraflores, the Cafe Haiti has welcomed politicians, writers, artists, tourists, and local residents who have been flocking there for almost half a century in search of quality coffee and good food and drinks served in a welcoming atmosphere. The Cafe Haiti might not be the cheapest place in town, nor the most trendy or fashionable cafe, yet there is something familiar and inviting about the place. The service is always impeccable. The location is superb. Simply put, the Cafe Haiti is the grande dame of Lima cafes.

Lima: JW Marriott Lima (August 2005)

My spouse and I stayed at the JW Marriott Lima for one night in late August 2005. The hotel offers guests superior service, luxury accommodations, and an unbeatable location. Located in Lima's distinctive Miraflores district, the hotel is near top fine dining restaurants, notable historic sites, and picturesque public spaces. The 300 stylish guest rooms and suites feature spectacular ocean views and include amenities like marble bathrooms and designer bedding. Savor fine Peruvian dining at one of our two acclaimed restaurants, book a spa treatment at our health club, or work out in the state-of-the-art fitness center. Just 20 miles from the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, the hotel is located in the city's beautiful oceanside Miraflores neighborhood, near the city’s top shopping and entertainment at Larcomar.

Lima: Vivaldino (August 2005)

My spouse and I ate dinner at Vivaldino in late September 2005. Wrought-iron tables covered with crisp white linens distinguish this classic eatery. Tall windows let you gaze down at the ocean; for an even better view, sit outside. The menu tends toward Mediterranean-style fare. Try the solomillo caprese (bits of steak with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese) or the corvina princesa (grilled sea bass and scallops with potato mousseline and fried artichoke hearts). If the dessert cart includes a mousse made with lucuma, a local fruit, snap one up immediately.

Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge: August 2005

I liked this hotel and felt very privileged to stay here. I read some bad reviews beforehand but was pleasantly surprised. I think many improvements were made in the years since it opened. It didn't remind me of the pre-fab shed that someone described. The restaurants were pretty, particularly the a la carte one reserved for guests only (glass sunspace, fireplace, cozy chairs in the bar), and the food was great. We had a standard room in the main building, which although small, was very attractively decorated (king bed, small table and chairs, TV, minibar, bathroom (shower only). The linens and toiletries were nice, and I loved both the afternoon snack and the burning candle that was left at the evening turndown. Perhaps the upgraded rooms in the new building at the back of property were larger, and they had direct access to the patio and garden with teak tables/chairs and 2-person cushioned loungers. I felt that it was worth every penny to be right onsite, although the hours for visiting MP (and the prices) aren't any different for hotel guests than for the general public. The room rates are expensive, but consider that it includes three meals and all taxes (in 2005 anyway). And the food was really good! They rose to the occasion and presented wonderful multi-course meals. I didn't feel isolated or "stuck" like others had mentioned, although I did only stay for one night (two would have been ideal, but only one was available). One thing I wish I knew beforehand: there are Lodge porters just after exiting the train station who transfer your luggage to the hotel. Conversely, they also deliver it back to the exact train car that you travel home on so that you can spend some unencumbered time in Aguas Calientes without dragging your bags around. If I ever return to MP, I would love to stay again.

Keep in mind that the exhorbitant price for the Sanctuary Lodge does include three wonderful meals. Multi-course, anything on the menu (drinks--neither alcoholic nor nonalcoholic--are NOT included). I was really impressed with the quality of food in the restaurant reserved for guests only (not the lunch buffet restaurant where anyone can eat). I would value our meals for one day at $25 breakfast (combination cold buffet and hot served entree), $60 lunch (served, 3 courses if you wished), $120 dinner (served, 3/4 courses if you wished), so that brought the price of the room itself down to an acceptable level. I would definitely stay there again if I were lucky enough to go back for a second visit.

Cusco: Inka Grill (August 2005)

My spouse and I ate dinner at the Inka Grill in late September 2005. INKA Grill, the first restaurant of our chain, becomes the majestic Plaza de Armas of Cusco in 1998, was a pioneer of the culinary revolution in the city. We offer an international menu perfectly amalgamated with the Peruvian flavors and adapted to all tastes, which highlights the comforting ave and quinoa soup. The letter reinvents international dishes in its original concept, from pastas, pizzas and sandwiches to vegetarian dishes and unforgettable desserts. A privileged location in the heart of the city, a homely atmosphere and the commitment and dedication of our team, coupled with a recognized and powerful culinary quality, have kept existing Inka Grill for more than fifteen years as a gastronomic reference, a classic that can not fail to visit.

Cusco: Blueberry Lounge (August 2005)

My spouse and I ate lunch at Blueberry Lounge in late September 2005.
Located near the Cathedral of Cusco, Blueberry Lounge serves Thai cuisine and tapas. We strongly recommend you summer rolls Vietnamese stuffed chicken, tropical fruits, potatoes, and cheese cream in spicy soy sauce or the rolls of pork loin and peppers in soy sauce. Other interesting menu items are the chicken with the lemon verbena with chutney of papaya, ginger and pepper, served with Thai rice; and the classic homemade hamburger with cheese, mushrooms, bacon, avocado, and French fries (the favorite of the 'gringos').

Cusco: Pachacutec Grill and Bar (August 2005)

My spouse and I ate lunch at Pachacutec Grill and Bar in late September 2005.
In ancient Peru, the Inca Pachacutec constructed monumental buildings for his palace in Haukaypata. Today we can see part of this monumental building in the Wasi Qasana today in Pachacutec Grill and Bar located in the main square of Cusco.

Cusco: MAP Cafe (August 2005)

My spouse and I ate dinner at the MAP Cafe in late September 2005.
Located in the courtyard of the Museum of pre-Columbian art of Cusco, this crystal cube contrasts harmoniously with the colonial architecture of the House, space that you can not miss. The gastronomic delights the senses with an interesting reinvention of the traditional dishes of Peruvian cuisine, inspired cuisine that seeks to convey the highest expression of national culinary art. Our traditional capchi of mushrooms, our cannelloni of red and black quinoa to the aroma of white truffle or hot stone shrimp ceviche are just some of the delicacies of the coffee MAP. Bucket, with capacity for 50 people, creates an intimate space that allows diners to enjoy a unique experience that combines the elegance and warmth of the atmosphere; an exclusive selection of wines, with attentive and friendly service are the perfect ingredients for a memorable dining experience.

Cusco: Rosie O’Grady’s (August 2005)

Just around the corner of Plaza de Armas, Rosie O'Grady's is the second Irish bar in Cusco. It's a bit more expensive, but friendly, and provides TVs, Guinness, and good food. Rosie O 'Gradys offers live music (Thursdays traditional Irish live music) and other Irish related events or even festivals. Slainte!

Cusco: Hotel Monasterio: August 005

What a beautiful property! We were stunned to find that we were upgraded (free!) to a 2-story junior suite (probably because we only stayed for one night, and they could rent our standard room for a longer run to someone else). The public spaces are beautiful (bar, restaurants, outdoor courtyards). The concierge was able to arrange Peru Rail tickets to Machu Picchu for us, which was a lifesaver (we arrived too late to purchase them at the station and would have had to forgo our trip otherwise). Ilariy Restaurant was awesome--fantastic food and service. The evening turndown was the best I've ever had! Little linen mats next to each bedside with slippers, water bottles and glasses on each nightstand, fabric bag to hold the duvet, ironed/monogrammed sheets. The towels and linens were high-quality, as were the toiletries. It also seemed that every room had a welcome flower arrangement and fruit basket, along with a welcome note. Highly recommended!