Detroit: Republic Tavern (July 2017)




My spouse and I dined at Republic Tavern for dinner on a Saturday evening in early July 2017. The restaurant serves dinner on Tuesdays through Sundays (closed on Mondays). You can reserve a table using the online Open Table reservation system. The owners of Republic also operate sister restaurant Parks and Rec. In 2015, the Detroit Free Press named Republic Tavern as its “Best New Restaurant”.
Since early 2015, Republic Tavern has occupied the street level of the Grand Army of the Republic (GAR) Building on a triangular lot in Downtown Detroit. The GAR was built as a tribute to the soldiers of the Civil War (members of the Union Army, Navy, Marines, and Coast Guard), and it resembles a fortress or castle with turrets and stone exterior. The building was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. Originally, the building was home to 12+ shops and a bank on the street level, with offices on the second and third floors, and an auditorium on the fourth floor. Neighbor Parks and Rec Diner, under the same ownership as Republic, occupies the other street-level space.

Inside, you can sit in the bar area (on a high metal chair at the unusually shaped marble-topped bar, at a high-top table, or at a regular-height table), or you can sit in the dining room on a fancy grey-blue armchair at a reclaimed wood table. A black-and-white mural on one wall is reflected in the antique mirrors that hang on the opposite side of the room. Tile accents and lamps encased in chicken-wire offer a rustic yet chic feel. The position of the building allows windows on three sides, so the space feels light and bright against the loud contemporary music. A model of the building sits outside the restrooms in the hallway that leads between the kitchen and the dining room.

Republic Tavern serves American cuisine. Our server mentioned that the food was served family style and meant to be shared; however, we did not find most dishes to be easily divided. As starter options, we ordered the duck liver mousse topped with fruit sauce and cashew nuts and served with toasted bread slices (shareable) and the fingerling potato salad (not really shareable). As entrees, we ordered the beef heart Bolognese, and the beef tenderloin with asparagus spears and tomatoes (the menu stated that the tomatoes were blistered, but they were not roasted/cooked long enough to be so). Although plentiful, it was difficult to apportion the pasta entrée. We could more easily divvy up the tenderloin; however, with the vegetable components, it appeared to be a composed entrée plated for one diner. Before we ordered entrees, we asked our server for her opinion between two of meat-based dishes, and she steered us toward the tenderloin because she said it was unique, as opposed to the standard pork belly that we passed over, so we were disappointed when the dish arrived simply plated with some sliced beef, three asparagus spears, and three grape tomatoes – not at all unusual in terms of ingredients, preparation, or presentation. For dessert, we ordered the easily shareable nut and fruit torte, served warm in a tiny cast-iron skillet. Republic offers a full bar, including beer, wine, and cocktails.

We enjoyed our dinner at Republic Tavern –the atmosphere was bustling and the food was good, but staff should not promote the menu as shareable. (As we understand it, earlier this year, the restaurant parted ways with its former executive chef; perhaps the shared plates concept was better suited under her helm.)















No comments: