Vermont (September 2018)

My spouse and I spent a 3-day weekend in Vermont in late September 2018 in order to attend a family member’s wedding. We flew from our hometown in Pennsylvania to Burlington, Vermont on American Airlines by way of Philadelphia. Although the flights were delayed in both directions, it was still preferable to making the 7-hour drive each way. We arrived in Burlington around 6:00 pm on Thursday afternoon, which gave us time to check into our hotel before dining at Hen of the Wood, a restaurant we had heard a lot about (and for which we were holding a birthday gift card). Dinner was awesome! The next morning, we were able to walk around Burlington, choosing a spot for lunch on pedestrian-only Church Street Marketplace. We also visited the harbor area, and the weather was fantastic on a sunny late September day. Then we drove to Smuggler’s Notch in time for the beautiful wedding ceremony and reception at Michael’s on the Hill. On Saturday, we and a group and friends and family rode the Stowe Gondola to the top of Mount Mansfield for some sightseeing and lunch at the Cliff House restaurant. We also visited the Stowe Resort before gathering in the evening to watch the Penn State-Ohio State game (PSU lost). On Sunday, we ate brunch at our resort before we drove back to Burlington to tour the outdoor Shelburne Museum. Afterward, we had time for lunch before we caught our flight home. Our visit went much too quickly; we wish we had more time for “leaf-peeping” and exploring the small charming towns of Vermont! 
 

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Burlington: Skinny Pancake (September 2018)

Skinny Pancake – Several Locations in Vermont and One in New Hampshire
My spouse and I visited two locations of the Skinny Pancake on a Sunday afternoon in late September 2018. We were departing on a flight from Burlington International Airport, and because we arrived a bit early, we first had drinks at the location outside of security (landside), then later enjoyed drinks in the gate area (airside). In addition to the two Burlington Airport locations, you can also find the Skinny Pancake locations at the Burlington Waterfront, University of Vermont, Montpelier, Shelburne Museum, Stowe Resort, Sugarbush Resort, and in Hanover NH. The owners of the Skinny Pancake also operate Burlington’s sister restaurant the Chubby Muffin. (It sounds as if there once was, or may still be, a Chubby Muffin at the Burlington Airport.)
The airport location landside has semi-counter service and a bright, light-filled area in which to dine, either at a small drinks bar, a small dining counter adjacent to the windows, or at a table. The airside location has semi-counter service/bar service at an L-shaped drinks bar that adjoins the take-away food ordering counter. The drinks bar offers bar-height seating as well as an area with table-height (or wheelchair-height) seating. Guests can also sit at additional tables in an adjacent dining area.
The Skinny Pancake gets its name from its main menu item (crepes), both the sweet variety as well as the savory kind. Before opening its brick-and-mortar flagship Burlington Waterfront location, the business operated as a mobile festival caterer for several years. Besides crepes, the Skinny Pancake also serves poutine, fried cheese curds, burgers, paninis, and breakfast burritos. The two Burlington Airport locations also serve alcohol.







Burlington: Barnyard Wood Fired Pizza (September 2018)

Barnyard Wood Crafted Pizzeria – Great Pizza in Casual Comfortable Environment
My spouse and I dined at Barnyard Wood Crafted Pizzeria for lunch on a Sunday in late September 2018. Barnyard is open daily from 11:00 am until 10:00 pm (with extended hours on weekends and reduced hours on Sundays). We found Barnyard as we drove from Shelburne to the Burlington Airport, and the restaurant/bar provided the perfect place for a leisurely meal until it was time to check-in for our flight.
Barnyard Wood Crafted Pizzeria opened in late 2015 in the space formerly occupied by the Vermont Sports Grill (and prior to that, Hooters; however, extensive renovations have occurred, so there are no vestiges of the former establishment.) The owners of Barnyard also operate other commercial ventures, including the Vermont Tap House in Rutland and Grazers in St. Albans. In 2016, Barnyard Pizzeria was called “Best New Restaurant” by Seven Days Vermont.
The focal point of the open-concept restaurant is the huge gleaming brass wood-fired pizza oven, angled so that customers can see right into its fiery interior from the moment they enter through the front door. A multi-sided rectangular bar occupies one side of the restaurant, surrounded by booths of varying sizes. A high-top communal table divides the bar area from the other half of the restaurant, which has both table and booth seating. In warmer months, a private cozy rear deck offers al fresco dining.
As its name implies, Barnyard Pizzeria serves mostly (but not only) traditional tomato and also white garlic sauce pizzas, available in two sizes. The restaurant also sells salads, sandwiches, burgers, mac-and-cheese, and calzones. A full bar is available so that you can have beer, wine, and cocktails with your meal. Barnyard also allows online ordering and takeout. To start, we shared the calamari (both rings and “critters”), breaded to order and served with marinara and Sriracha aioli sauces. Next, we shared the 16-inch “Sweet Pig” (a white pizza topped with sausage, bacon, caramelized onions, and corn, which was a delicious combination of ingredients); in fact, we took a few leftover slices along with us for an evening snack on our flight. Although we were fairly full, we couldn’t resist ordering the home-made apple cobbler for dessert, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
We enjoyed our lunch at Barnyard Pizzeria; we wish we had a similar restaurant in the town where we live.









Burlington: Shelburne Museum (September 2018)

Shelburne Museum –Non-Traditional Indoor-Outdoor Museum
My spouse and I visited the Shelburne Museum on a Sunday afternoon in late September 2018. The museum is open daily from 10:00 am until 5:00 pm. Adult admission costs $25 in season and $10 out of season (fall and winter) because not all structures are open year-round; ideally, you should visit this museum from May 1 to October 31. Discounts are available, including for AAA, teenagers, children, and Vermont residents; in addition, some local hotels provide coupons (disappointingly, the Hilton Garden Inn Downtown Burlington where we stayed did not). A museum shop with quality gifts, a cafe, restroom facilities, and an exhibition and learning center are onsite. For those with mobility challenges, a small shuttle transports guests from location to location.
The museum opened in 1952 to showcase the collections of founder Electra Havemeyer Webb, including folk art, fine art, decorative arts, textiles, and architecture. The museum campus covers 45 acres and includes 39 historic buildings (25 of which illustrate historic New England architecture) that house the collections and 20 gardens that create a beautiful landscape. Some of the most notable buildings are the Ticonderoga (a 1906 220-foot steamboat), the Round Barn, 1890 railway station with a 1914 steam locomotive and 1890 private rail car (which wasn’t open the day we visited), 19th-century covered bridge with two lanes and a footpath, 1840 one-room schoolhouse, lighthouse, 1890 slate jail, and a 1840 general store. The museum’s Electra Havemeyer Webb Memorial Building contains six period rooms relocated from the Webb family’s 1930s New York apartment at 740 Park Avenue that showcase art by Monet, Manet, Degas, Cassatt, and Wyeth. On certain days, craftspeople showcase the trades of blacksmithing, printing, spinning, and weaving.
The collections we liked most were centered on the circus (including 50 restored carousel animals, 600 posters, a hard-carved 3500-piece miniature circus, and a 112-piece circus parade in a specially designed 525-foot U-shaped building), 1400 waterfowl decoys, dolls and dollhouses (over 1,000 dolls made of wax, wood, cloth, china, bisque, and papier mache, 27 dollhouses, and 1,200 doll accessories), toys, and 225 horse-drawn carriages (including sleighs, stagecoaches, and commercial wagons displayed in the 1901 round barn and elsewhere).
You can also visit nearby Shelburne Farms, the former estate of Webb’s in-laws that today offers accommodations, dining, and tours.
We enjoyed our visit to this interesting non-traditional indoor-outdoor museum. (Some guests compare the Shelburne Museum to a smaller-scale version of Henry Ford’s Greenfield Village in Michigan, and having visited that site in July 2017, we can see some similarities.)








































Smuggler’s Notch: Morse Mountain Grill (September 2018)

Morse Mountain Grille - All-Day Dining at Smuggs

My spouse and I dined at the Morse Mountain Grille two times during our two-night stay at the Smuggler’s Notch Resort in late September 2018. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, and drinks from 8:00 am until 9:00 pm. The interconnected pub is open daily from 11:00 am until 9:00 pm.
Morse Mountain Grille is located at the Smuggler’s Notch Resort near the Village Center (where guests register and where they can visit the Hearth & Candle restaurant and the Country Store). Guests enter Morse Mountain Grille from the ground level near the main parking lot, then climb a long flight of stairs to reach the host stand/bar room level, followed by a short climb of stairs to reach the dining room. A handicapped entrance is located around the rear of the building, with doors that lead to both the bar room and dining room levels. The bar room offers seating a regular-height tables, high-top tables, and at the small bar. High ceilings and a fieldstone fireplace create a spacious yet cozy feel. The main dining room is located a few steps up from the bar room and has both booth and table seating. Sometimes the main dining room is reserved for private parties, and the restaurant has some clever ways of using room dividers in order to camouflage the booths that line two of the perimeter walls.
Our first visit was only for drinks and a light snack, so we sat in the bar room at a high-top table. We shared the Vermonter flatbread (with apple chutney, spinach, red onion, cheese, and bacon); however, the base flatbread seemed pre-packaged. Afterwards, we ordered the cinnamon bun bread pudding, which was neither warm enough nor moist enough.
Our second meal was breakfast in the dining room, where we sat at a table with several friends. We enjoyed the veggie omelet (which included Cabot cheddar cheese, a red bell pepper strip, green bell pepper strip, and portabella mushroom strip), served with a choice of toast or English muffin, and a side of breakfast potatoes (which were well seasoned and tasty). Our Bloody Mary cocktail was a bit disappointing, delivered without the black pepper-and-salt rim that was described on the menu.
Our experiences at the Morse Mountain Grille were acceptable, but next time, we’ll try the Hearth & Candle instead.







Smuggler’s Notch: Smuggler’s Notch Resort (September 2018)

Smuggler’s Notch Resort – Widely Variable Accommodations
My spouse and I stayed at Smuggler’s Notch Resort for two nights over a weekend in late September 2018 in order to attend a wedding nearby. We booked our stay online using the resort website; however, we were required to book it as part of a fall package rather than a la carte, even though our stay didn’t seem to include any extras.
The Smuggler’s Notch Ski Resort first opened in 1956 on Sterling Mountain in Jeffersonville/Cambridge Vermont, close to Stowe Mountain and an hour’s drive from the Burlington Airport. In the early 1960s, an additional owner began developing a European-style village by incorporating Madonna and Morse Mountains. Besides skiing and snowboarding in the winter, “Smuggs” (as it is affectionately nicknamed), offers year-round adventures including indoor and outdoor swimming, zip-lining, hiking, volleyball, miniature golf, disc golf, canoeing and kayaking, and more. The name “Smuggler’s Notch” dates back to Prohibition days, when smugglers used the forest, caverns, and caves along the narrow mountain pass (or “notch”) to transport goods across borders.
Because we had a large group of family and friends staying at the resort, we were able to see several different accommodation types and locations, and we were stunned by the variability of the lodging. Although our Liftside unit had a great location near the guests services building (including its two shops), several restaurants (like the Hearth and Candle and the Morse Mountain Grill), and one of the chairlifts, it was older. We did benefit from a corner unit, so our dining room area had an additional side window that middle units would not have. Although our unit was on the first floor, we still needed to climb a short flight of stairs to reach that level. In Liftside, several units are semi-below ground, which we learned was the most preferable floor because their occupants can walk and ski in and out) from their patios. The Liftside condos also have units on the second floor (some with an additional loft space above); the upper units require occupants to climb even more steps, and there is no elevator when loading in/out with lots of bags and equipment.
Although we booked a standard 1-bedroom condo (no upgraded units were available when we booked), upon check-in, we were assigned a 2-bedroom unit (#5). We think that we were “upgraded” because it was the only unit available at the early-ish hour that we needed to check in (standard check-in time at the resort is 5:00 pm, but because we were attending a wedding that started at that same time, guests for our event were permitted an earlier check-in time). Our unit’s main combination living/dining area was in an acceptable updated state. It had a door that led to a balcony (filthy with spider webs and other natural dirt), a corner gas fireplace, a comfy sofa and loveseat (with a coffee table and a side table to use for drinks/snacks), and a large dining table (with six chairs); the adjacent kitchen was connected via an open counter area (but without any bar stools) and contained a fully outfitted cooking space. Although the countertop was only Formica and the appliances weren’t top-notch, the kitchen was clean and functional and reasonably modern. The quality of doors in the unit (two bathroom doors, two bedroom doors, all three closet doors, kitchen pantry door, entry door, and the door to the connecting unit) really cheapened its overall look; in our opinion, if the owners replaced the inexpensive flat plywood doors with some newer fiberglass panel doors, the general appearance of the unit would improve greatly. Having never stayed at a condo-type hotel before, we were surprised that every closet we opened was so filled with extra blankets, fans, clothes-drying racks, and other items that we had difficulty finding a place to hang our clothes. (We were attending a wedding, so we had many longer garments that we didn’t want to get wrinkled.) Although there were several pegboard hooks/shelves positioned around the unit, the hangers from the closets could not be removed, so there was no way to provide structure for our hanging items. One bedroom contained a king-size bed flanked by two nightstands, a dresser, and a sofa (presumably pull-out) and side table. We won’t “ding” the owners for their quality and choice of bedding, but we will say that the curtains in the entire unit were the old-style pulley type, which we haven’t seen in years. The second bedroom had two twin/single beds and a daybed, along with a dresser and one nightstand. The bathrooms were really where the unit showed its age, and the feature that we most strongly disliked. The smaller bathroom outside the second bedroom was an old-fashioned blue color, very cramped and unappealing, but with the only bathtub in the condo. The bathroom outside of the master bedroom was a little larger overall, but it had room for only a narrow stand-up shower. The vanities in both bathrooms needed a refresh as well.
As a contrast, one group of guests in our party were assigned a 3-bedroom unit in the Eagles section, which offered stellar accommodations: their building even had a large outdoor hot tub on a covered porch that guests could share! Their unit had two fireplaces, a balcony, a large enclosed sunroom, upgraded appliances, an open kitchen with Corian countertops, and a master bathroom with a steam shower and separate soaking Jacuzzi tub! Both bathrooms were huge, with upgraded countertops and fixtures. It made our Liftside unit seem even shabbier than it had before we saw the Eagles, and we hated having to return to Liftside to sleep and shower after seeing where our friends were staying.
As previously mentioned, we have not stayed in this type of condo-hotel accommodation before, so having to supply our own shampoo, take out our own trash, make our own beds, and wash our own sheets and towels just isn’t what we look for when we vacation. Neighboring higher-end Stowe Resort seemed much more our style!
 
 






Stowe: Cliff House (September 2018)

Cliff House Restaurant at Stowe – Be Wary of Sold Out Items and Group Menus
My spouse and I and a group of eight friends and family dined at Stowe’s Cliff House restaurant for lunch on a Saturday afternoon in late September 2018. The restaurant is open daily from 11:00 am until 3:00 pm for lunch and drinks. On a few select Saturday evenings year-round, the restaurant offers special event multi-course candlelit dinners. The Cliff House only accepts lunch reservations for large parties. Weekday gondola and lunch packages are also available.
We rode the Stowe Gondola Skyride (see our separate review) to reach the Cliff House atop Mount Mansfield. The restaurant occupies the top floor of a two-story Bavarian chalet. A coat room and a single restroom are located at the main entrance to the restaurant near the host station. Inside, the main dining room has high vaulted ceilings and lots of wood and windows. A semi-open kitchen and small drinks bar (perhaps only six seats) are located in the spacious main area, with a smaller side room that offers even better views of the valley. A huge outdoor side deck provides additional seating at wrought-iron tables and chairs, although on the day that we visited, the deck wasn’t being used and seemed under-utilized (it held only a few tables for such a large deck).
As the hostess seated us, she presented us with a “large party” menu, which we were not forewarned about when we telephoned to make our reservation. Unfortunately, our guests had perused the regular menu online and were displeased to find that items they had planned to order were not actually available to them. In addition, two hours after opening time on a fall Saturday, the restaurant had already run out of both of its soup options (chili and butternut squash), which were the only likely appetizer candidates on the group menu. To further complicate matters, one member of our group who keeps Kosher inquired as to whether she could order the poke bowl that she saw on the regular menu, and she was informed that she could (because it was a religious reason); however, they had also run out of that menu item. Since our choices were so limited, our group ordered several of the same items: the curried chicken salad, the grilled chicken pesto sandwich (served with choice of side salad or fries), and the hamburger (also served with salad or fries). When we finished our meal, the only dessert available was packaged Ben & Jerry’s pint slices. At least they were a semi-local (if mass-marketed) item; however, when a restaurant’s website quotes “… mouth-watering dish and sinful dessert…”, guests probably have different expectations than what they receive.
Our lunch at the Cliff House was acceptable, but we wouldn’t return because of the limited menu and provisioning problems.