New York City: Maison (November 2010)

Maison Brasserie, with a model guillotine at the entrance, relies on round-the-clock service and a large outdoor patio with a smoking section. It attracts business people during the day, and theatergoers and out-of-towners for early dinners and late-night steaks. The main dining room works the textbook bistro decorative elements: ceramic roosters, reproduction vintage advertising posters, and deep banquettes. The menu also feels by-the-book, with familiar crowd-pleasers like onion soup, mussels, roast chicken, and salads with a nicely nutty vinaigrette.