Thailand and Cambodia (February 2009)

Bangkok-Siem Reap-Phnom Penh Trip Report

 

 

 

Wednesday, February 11, 2009: Departing New York/JFK

We chose to stay at the JFK Marriott Fairfield Inn on the night prior to our flight because of its Park ‘n Fly rate.

Link to My Review of the JFK Marriott Fairfield Inn

Thursday, February 12, 2009: Cathay Pacific from JFK to Bangkok via Hong Kong

Friday, February 13, 2009: One Night in Bangkok

Suvarnabhumi Bangkok International Airport is a large, well-equipped airport with lots of shopping and food options. It is necessary to pass all food and shopping en route to your gates, which occurs just after immigration and passport control, but before any actual security screening. It is easy to forget that you haven’t been through security while shopping and dining and using the airline clubs, which could mean a crunch at boarding time. It is not possible to bring any liquid beverages on flights because you must pass through security after purchasing them. There are restrooms and smoking rooms in the departure gate areas, but no food or beverages available. There are shower rooms and spa services available at the airport. No visas are necessary for US citizens. You will pass a visa on arrival area when deplaning, but you do not need to stop there.

Link to My Review of the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel

Saturday, February 14, 2009: Bangkok to Siem Reap

Bangkok Air is a so-called boutique airline that allows all customers into its lounges, regardless of whether you’re flying economy or business/first. In my opinion, the lounge in Phnom Penh airport was better than the one in the Bangkok airport: smaller but more comfortable and located closer to the gates. We used this airline to fly from Bangkok to Siem Reap, then again from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, then finally, from Phnom Penh back to Bangkok. Food on the flights was plentiful, and there was some limited entertainment available. It looked like you needed to provide your own headsets, but I can’t say for sure because I didn’t watch the entertainment since my flights were so short. We were NOT able to use the online check-in for ANY of our flights; I think this a new feature and not yet available for all flights/airports. It didn’t matter whether the flight was domestic or international, we still could not use the online check-in.

Siem Reap Angkor International Airport: The international terminal is new as compared to the domestic terminal. I only saw the arrivals area of the international terminal, not the departures area, since I was flying domestic when leaving Siem Reap. We used the e-Visa service, which definitely saved us time and was worth the extra $5 per visa (so we paid $25 in advance instead of $20 on arrival). Baggage claim was easy; I didn’t see any shops or restaurants in the international arrivals area (but as I said, I can’t comment on the departures are).

Link to My Review of the Hotel de la Paix (HDLP)

Frangipani Spa is an affordable option instead of the hotel spas. We had a couples massage and couples facial, and the total bill was about $120. This spa is located near the central market and the Hotel de la Paix. The building is pretty, with several water features in the lobby area and multiple levels for treatments. The couples room was on the top floor, and had two massage tables, a large soaking bathtub, and rooftop relaxation garden with outdoor shower. I’m not sure whether I liked the Thai massage--it was odd to have someone crawling over me while I was lying (undressed but covered with a cloth) on the table. The facial was similar to others I’ve had in the US, but without the heated mittens/booties that I’ve sometimes had on during the treatment.
We took a balloon flight to see Angkor Wat, but it was quite hazy and visibility wasn’t good. We were told that the sunrise and sunset times were the most popular, but then were told by someone else later that the 3pm time slot is the clearest, not sunrise and sunset. (I had also heard that the best spot to stand was near the balloon operator, which turned out to the worst spot to stand. Move as far away from the operator as possible, and you’ll be facing Angkor Wat.) I would take the balloon again if the weather was crystal clear, because you could definitely get some good photos of the temples from a unique vantage point. If it’s a clear day, it’s $15 per person well spent.

Siem Reap: Meric (February 2009)

Sunday, February 15, 2009:Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom (Bayon, Terrace of Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King) with Ponheary Ly

I can’t rave enough about Ponheary! She is really knowledgeable, personable, and hard-working, and she knows just the right places for you to stand to take great photos! Ponheary was our guide, but she also has her own van/driver, which worked out well, allowing her to concentrate on telling us about the area while someone else took care of the transportation. You can just tell that she’s a kind and caring person who is dedicated to making her part of the world a better place. We booked her for three days: the first day to see Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the second day to see Banteay Srei and Ta Phrom, and the third day to see the Floating Village and artisan factory (later on the last day, we could have gone back to one of the temples for sunset, but we had a flight to catch). We loved that we toured in the morning from about 8 to 12, then went back to the hotel from 12 to 3 for lunch/naps/poolside relaxing, then back out to tour from 3 to 6. This was the first time that we’ve gotten such a lunchtime respite in our travels, and it’s really the way to do it, especially in the Cambodian heat. I won’t go on and on about how amazing the temples are; you just have to see them to believe them. I will say that while we travelled all that way to see Angkor Wat, I think that I found Angkor Thom even more impressive (I loved all those “face” carvings.) 

We had lunch at Cafe Indochine near our hotel on this day, which was excellent (but popular with tour groups), and dinner at Le Malraux, which was also good.

Siem Reap: Cafe Indochine (February 2009)

Siem Reap: Le Malraux (February 2009)

 Monday, February 16, 2009:Bateay Srei and Ta Phrom with Ponheary Ly

These temples are farther out of town that Angkor Wat and Thom, but the drive is interesting because you get to see the local countryside and life. We passed two groups of monks receiving alms from local women, which were great photo ops. Banteay Srei had neat carvings, and Ta Phrom is a must see for the way the trees have grown in through the temples (part of Angelina Jolie’s Tomb Raider movie was filmed here).
We had lunch at the Red Piano near our hotel, which was good and dinner nearby at AHA on Pub Street, which my favorite dinner of the whole trip, serving a Khmer tapas menu (highly recommended!); the Meric dinner at HDLP was a close second for my favorite meal.

Siem Reap: AHA (February 2009)

Siem Reap: Red Piano (February 2009)

 
Tuesday, February 17, 2009:Floating Village and Artisans d’Angkor workshop with Ponheary Ly, Then Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

Originally, we had planned to take the Izabella speedboat to travel from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (run by Compagnie de Fluviale), but one month before our trip, they announced that they were discontinuing their 1-day runs from REP to PNP and back. So we quickly booked two one way tickets to Phnom Penh on Bangkok Air as Plan B. (The Izabella was the only luxury boat option available; all other boats were more “local” or “commuter” types.) We also booked Ponheary for the third day to the floating village. Having seen it previously on TV’s Amazing Race, I really wasn’t that impressed by what we saw. But in all fairness, the weather was not good on this day; it was the only rain we had during our trip, and even though it only lasted an hour, it was a cold trip out to the village. We stopped at a Cambodian handicraft factory on the way back to town, which I would normally avoid. (We just aren’t interested in shopping.) But it turned out to be very interesting and informative. It was good to see people actually making the kinds of souvenirs that we had seen; to attach a living and breathing person to the object for sale. We had lunch at the Soup Dragon, enjoying the overhead vantage point of Pub Street. We hung out at the hotel in the afternoon, both at the pool and then in the cool lobby (we had a late checkout). Then it was time to leave for Phnom Penh. 

The domestic terminal of the Siem Reap Angkor International Airport is tiny, but it does have an outlet of the Blue Pumpkin in the departure area, as well as a small souvenir shop and bookstore. Don’t arrive at the domestic airport too early: the check-in counters won’t be open, and there’s not much to do while you’re waiting. You can only smoke outside of the terminal. I’ve been in smaller and worse airports, so I thought it was cute and serviceable. Domestic arrivals at the Phnom Penh Pochentong Airport are sort of in an open-air area, where you can smoke while waiting for your baggage. I also saw a shop or two in the immediate vicinity of domestic baggage claim. 

Siem Reap: Soup Dragon (February 2009)

 Link to My Review of the Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh: Elephant Bar (February 2009)

Wednesday, February 1, 2009:Phnom Penh City Tour

The Raffles hotel arranged a guide and driver for a tour of the city, including the Tuol Sleng and Genocide Museum (Killing Fields) at a cost of approximately $100 per day ($50 for the guide and $50 for the driver). We had a great guide and felt that the price was worth it, and having a separate driver who can drop you off in one location and then pick you up in another when you are finished touring a sight is really invaluable. We visited the following: Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, Wat Phnom, Tuol Sleng Museum (Museum of Genocide), and Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields).

Thursday, February 19, 2009: Phnom Penh to Bangkok

The Phnom Penh Pochentong Airport International Airport departure area was smallish but nice, with a few shops and restaurants. There is a smoking room located in back of the Pub. Bangkok Air has a club lounge for all classes of passengers, which is a comfortable place to wait and have complimentary non-alcoholic drinks and snacks. Don’t forget to pay your $25 international departure tax after checking in for your flight but before going through security.
 
Link to My Review of the Peninsula Bangkok

We had two activities planned for the night of our arrival through Tour With Tong: muay thai boxing and the Patpong night market. For the muay thai boxing, our guide was Charlie. We paid for the boxing tickets ourselves (not through Ton), and sat ringside. As it turns out, it was the right move, since that’s where all the tourists were sitting, with the locals above us in the stands. It was not the best seating for viewing the match and taking photos, though. An upper position would have afforded a better view, in my opinion. (I’ve never thought that front row was the best seats at any venue--put me a few rows back and I’m much happier.) The fights were interesting. We then took a quick walk through Patpong with Charlie. It wasn’t as seedy as I had imagined.

Friday, February 20: Tour with Tong to Kanchanaburi (Floating Village and Temple Tiger)

High praise for Tour with Tong! We had a tiny problem upon arrival, which she went out of her way to correct with not only an e-mail, but also two phone calls. She truly cares about her customers and the reputation of her business, which isn’t always the case with other companies. I also commend Tong for teaching her employees to always be early! Whether by design or just by hiring conscientious people, our guides and/or drivers were always at least 15 minutes early for our meeting time, which was greatly appreciated by two people who always make it a point to be early as well. We took a full-day tour to Kanchanaburi to see the Floating Market and Temple Tiger, followed by a day tour of the city. Even though we didn’t choose all the options available of the Kanchanaburi tour (for example, we didn’t take the train ride, or the elephant walk/bath, or the monkey feeding), it was difficult to finish in less than 12 hours (and only 8 hours are included in the day rate, so some overtime was necessary; affordable certainly, but necessary). We did spend an extra hour at Temple Tiger feeding and playing with the 6-week old cubs. That cost an extra 1500 Thai Baht per person but was one of the highlights of our entire trip. I guess it’s not always available, though, because there aren’t always cubs. We had the greatest guide for our two full-day trips: Kung. She is so friendly and personable; it is evident that she really cares about her clients and gets enjoyment from seeing them having a good time. She was invaluable to us at the Temple Tiger; knowing just the right places to stand to be first in line to walk with the tigers to the canyon. She was also a gem at the Floating Market; I think it is Tong’s policy to use only non-motorized boats on the waterways there, and Kong reserved a boat for us before we even arrived. Definitely check out this company when you are looking for a Bangkok guide. Tong is very responsive to e-mail and was extremely patient with dealing with my many questions. She takes PayPal as a deposit on the tours, but the balance is paid in Thai Baht on the day of the tour (and the amount can’t be calculated exactly because there might be overtime). We visited Maeklong Market (where a train goes right through the market several times a day, and vendors pack/unpack their awnings and move their wares to let it pass), Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a local teak factory, Temple Tiger, and the Bridge Over the RIver Kwai. We also had a quick but delicious lunch nearby Temple Tiger.

Link to my review of Tiptara

Saturday, February 21: Tour with Tong of Bangkok City

Kung led us on a tour of Wat Phra Keo (Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Vinamnek Palace (teak mansion), Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) reached by crossing the river on a local ferry boat, had lunch at Rub Ar Roon Cafe (across from Wat Po; yummy and really inexpensive; sit on the sidewalk if there’s a table available), Wat Po, Reclining Buddha, and had some foot reflexology done. We tried to visit Jim Thompson’s house in the late afternoon, but traffic prevented us from getting there, so we got some extra pool time instead, which was well deserved on the last day of our trip. We passed on the option to take an hour-long khlong tour, since we felt like we saw a lot of the river staying at the Peninsula and also rode the local ferry across the river to Wat Arun.

Bangkok: Tiptara (February 2009)

My spouse and I ate dinner at Tiptara at the Peninsula Hotel Bangkok in February 2009. Thiptara is a Thai feast for all the senses. Surrounded by majestic banyan trees and lush tropical gardens, this restaurant offers a unique dining experience by the riverside. The legendary Thai lifestyle of days gone by is restored in all its glory at Thiptara, not only through its elegant decor but also in its cuisine.

Bangkok: Peninsula Bangkok (February 2009)

Much to my surprise, I was underwhelmed by the service! Sad, but true. From all the glowing reviews that I’ve read, I just expected to be bowled over, so I was disappointed that the service at this hotel wasn’t as good as either at the Hotel de la Paix or Raffles Le Royal in Cambodia. A German family sitting next to us at dinner one night at Thiptara was absolutely ignored during their entire meal, despite their many polite attempts to get service. There are several restaurant options at the Peninsula: Jesters, Thiptara (the setting of which was lovely, and it was surprisingly inexpensive), the Bar, the Lobby, the River Cafe and Terrace (where the buffet breakfast is held if it is included in your room rate, as well as a dinner buffet. I’m not sure what either one costs, since both were included for us, but these buffets are the nicest that I’ve ever seen anywhere), Mei Jiang, and the Pool Bar. I did not see the spa or fitness center, but the spa is in it’s own two- or three-story building, so I suspect it’s lovely. The pool is gorgeous with plenty of chairs and a few salas (cabanas) that are first-come, first-served. The bar along the river is a great place to have a drink; it is part of the River Cafe and Terrace. There is no smoking inside the hotel, and only at a few places outside (the River Cafe bar and the Thiptara relaxation/waiting area and one small section near the pool). There are 37 stories in this hotel, but amazingly, there was never a wait for an elevator. Rooms were large and comfortable with every possible amenity including the less-often-seen automatic curtains, daily newspaper box with light, TV above the bathtub, and twin his-and-hers sinks. I didn’t mind the Thonburi location: I liked having a good view of both the river traffic and the city itself, and it was easy to walk to local mini-markets with ATM machines nearby the hotel. There weren’t many off-site tourist restaurants nearby, but there were plenty of local sidewalk food stands if you were so inclined. We booked our airport/hotel transfers with Tour with Tong for $25 per way, which was more than it would have cost for a regular taxi, but much less than the $75 per way charged by the hotel.

Siem Reap: Hotel de la Paix (February 2009)

Hotel de la Paix (HDLP) was my favorite hotel during my trip to Cambodia and Thailand! We debated between HDLP, the Raffles, La Residence, the Sofitel, and the Le Meridien, but felt that we had made the right choice for us with HDLP. True, all those other named hotels were probably closer to the actual temple sights, but we were “in town”, making is simple, easy, and safe to walk to many restaurants and shops, as well as mini-marts to stock up on beverages rather than buying from the hotel and mini-bar (but those prices weren’t that exorbitant anyway). Service at the HDLP was outstanding! Even when we had a minor issue with our community trip to the local orphanage (which wasn’t even the hotel’s fault), they went above and beyond what was expected to make things right. I wish that we could get such acknowledgement and correction at home! The hotel is hip and stylish, with lots of lounging beds in the lobby/bar area as well as outdoors in the courtyard (which also has a neat water feature as well as the swinging bed at Meric) and by the pool. The pool area is lovely, but not overly large. While we didn’t have any trouble finding seats, the number of seats in the sun are limited and I could see this being a tiny problem when the hotel is at capacity. We were upgraded to a garden suite, which had an exterior courtyard area containing a large soaking tub. What a unique appointment! There are nightly turndown treats, as well as treats on arrival. Toiletries, robes, slippers are provided. The included breakfast was quite nice, with a cold buffet as well as hot, made-to-order items. Mimosas and Bloody Marys are included on the cold buffet. We had the 7-course Khmer tasting dinner at Meric one night, which was an interesting experience because we got to try a variety of Cambodian dishes (if there’s something that you just can’t eat--like me with the stir-fried eels--they will make a substitution). Each course was presented in an interesting manner with unique serving utensils/plates. We didn’t use the spa, but peeked inside when using the fitness center (which was small, with just a few pieces of equipment). The small cafe/deli at the hotel offers free wireless, which is also available in the rooms and public areas. It’s a good place for a quick, inexpensive lunch. Included in our “connect” package at the HDLP was a trip to the Sunshine Village orphanage to deliver food (rice and fish sauces). Unfortunately upon arriving, the orphanage was closed to visitors. This was not the fault of the HDLP, and they offered another trip to a different orphanage on another day, but we were unavailable to take it. Also included in our package was a trip to the local market with the hotel staff, which we found enjoyable. The types of food available for sale (and lack of refrigeration) was indeed interesting. I’m glad that I saw the local market, but I’m also glad that I’ve recently had my hep A and B shots! 

Bangkok: Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport (February 2009)

The Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel has an excellent location right on the airport property. (Please note that this is NOT a convenient hotel location for sightseeing in Bangkok, just for transit and travel.) Once the connecting walkway between the hotel and the terminal is finished, it will be simple to travel between the two. While the hotel looks boxy and nondescript from the outside, it is beautiful within. The lobby area is expansive, and there are six restaurant options as well as a little shopping and a spa. The pool area is lovely and relaxing, with food and drink service available and towels provided. Besides regular overnight stays, the hotel has a day rate and half-day rate, making it possible to spend a long connection time in peace and comfort. We had just a standard rooms, which was large and comfortable. The bathrooms are well-equipped, but with an odd blind-covered window between it and the room itself. Robes, slippers, hair dryers, and toiletries provided. Wireless cost the equivalent of about $10 for a few hours usage. Restaurants include Sala Thai (open 12:00—15:00/18:00—23:00), The Square (open 24 hours), Golden Village (open 12:00—15:00/18:00—23:00), Kinsen (open 12:00—15:00/18:00—23:00), Atrium Terrace (open 10:00—02:00), and the Splash Pool Bar (open 10:00—02:00). The Vous Wellness Spa even has special 30-minute travel treatments, such as a back or leg massage for about Baht 900 (about $33) or a skin rescue facial for about Baht 1400 baht ($52). Pool hours 6:00 am to 10:00 pm; spa hours 7:30 to 12:00 midnight. I liked this hotel and would definitely use it again before an early flight. We spent just a few hours in Bangkok before immediately departing to Siem Reap the next morning, and it would not have made any sense to travel into the city to stay there for such a short time. (We’ll return to Bangkok for 3 nights at the end of our trip.)

Siem Reap: Soup Dragon (February 2009)

My spouse and I ate lunch at the Soup Dragon on Pub Street in mid-February 2009. This three-level restaurant has a split personality: the ground floor serves up cheap, classic Asian breakfasts, while upstairs serves a diverse menu of Asian and international dishes, including Italian and Moroccan.

Siem Reap: Red Piano (February 2009)

My spouse and I ate lunch at the Red Piano in mid-February 2009. Opened in 2000, this restaurant serves Cambodian specialties and other Asian dishes, as well as Western favorites, Belgian specialties, and great drinks. (Unlike other local restaurants, they claim NOT to serve $1 dishes nor 50 cent beers because they strive to serve quality food and drinks!) Strikingly set in a restored colonial gem of a house, Red Piano has a big balcony for watching the action unfold below. Former celebrity guest Angelina Jolie has a cocktail named in her honor.

Siem Reap: Meric (February 2009)

My spouse and I ate dinner at Meric Restaurant in mid-February 2009. We were staying at the Hotel de la Paix at the time, and Meric is the hotel restaurant. Our nightly room rate included a tasting dinner at Meric, which was an impressive feast of several course. We had the 7-course Khmer tasting dinner at Meric one night, which was an interesting experience because we got to try a variety of Cambodian dishes (if there’s something that you just can’t eat--like me with the stir-fried eels--they will make a substitution). Each course was presented in an interesting manner with unique serving utensils/plates. This Art Deco-themed restaurant is stylish and trendy, offering both Khmer menu and a good selection of Western dishes. Meric is also known for changing its menu daily, as it depends on the produce available from local farmers and growers. Still, American chef Bryan Gardner and his team make sure that they offer off-the-beaten path specials and some other memorable dishes. A distinct feature of the restaurant are the outdoor dining swings set around the central water feature, which are perfect for romantic dates. Traditional dining tables and Japanese style wooden tables are also available indoors.

Siem Reap: Le Malraux (February 2009)

My spouse and I ate dinner at Le Malraux in mid-February 2009. A good spot for gastronomes, this classy art-deco cafe-restaurant offers fine French food.  Located in the lively district of the old market in the heart of Siem Reap, the brasserie «Le Malraux» is a single framework to fully enjoy a break between two visits to the temples. Open in the morning for a hearty breakfast, the House also offers complete menus for lunch and dinner. Come and discover French and Khmer specialties in shaded terrace on the main avenue of Siem Reap, or take a seat on the comfortable seats in the brasserie decor "Art Nouveau" of the 1930s. During the day, indulge yourself at any time by the sundaes or a selection of homemade pastries. The chef uses the freshest products from the market that he selects with care. Alone, in couple or in a group, no doubt the unique ambiance of the Malraux and the smiles of the staff will make you want to extend your stay in the city of Angkor temples.

Siem Reap: Cafe Indochine (February 2009)

My spouse and I dined at Cafe Indochine in mid-February 2009. A genuinely tranquil hideaway offering authenticity, serenity and decor, the Café Indochine is situated in one of the few remaining traditional style, Khmer houses in Siem Reap. The site’s authenticity; tasteful and original decor, the quality of the cuisine and top-class service create a voyage in time to allow you to discover the Khmer people and their culture. The Cafe Indochine, operating for over 7 years, offers 180 places in the heart of Siem Reap – city of the Angkor Temples.

Siem Reap: AHA (February 2009)

My spouse and I dined at AHA Wine Bar for dinner in mid-February 2009. AHA Restaurant is located in "The Passage" or the Pub Street Alley opposite of Linga Bar in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Meaning "food" in Khmer, the AHA Restaurant has fast become one of the hottest tables in Asia. Nestled in The Passage between the bars and cafes of the thriving Old Market Area, AHA has joined forces with the stylish McDermott Gallery and the innovative One Hotel Collection to offer an eclectic blend of cuisine, art and contemporary space in what has become the coolest zone in town. Working with Asma, a local Khmer French design team Hotel de la Paix created AHA, a free flowing space featuring a 30-meter wooden wave wall, "floating" show kitchen and designer wine display. AHA showcases the latest in architectural design and is more reminiscent of dining experiences in Bangkok, Sydney, or other international hotspots. Inspired by the success of de la Paix's signature restaurant, Meric, the Executive Chef has shaped an array of small plates - taste sensations which are essentially Khmer, but also beyond. Bites include Green Mango and Dried Snake Salad, a favourite with adventurous visitors, to the more international Grilled Prawn and Radicchio with Duck Confit. For something sweet, savor the finale that includes Honeycomb Icecream, Jasmine Rice with Coconut Sorbet or delectable Sambucca Jelly.

Phnom Penh: Elephant Bar (February 2009)

My spouse and I dined twice for dinner at the Elephant Bar at the Raffles Hotel in mid-February 2009. We loved this hotel, and this bar! What a comfortable, cozy atmosphere! The Elephant Bar has happy hours from 4.00 pm to 9.00 pm, with a 50% discount on food and drinks. I tried a Singapore Sling that the bartender served in an interesting elephant-shaped glass, and we shared some dim sum dumplings that came stacked in several steamer baskets. The Elephant Bar is a magnificent and formidable lounge where guests can enjoy original cocktails in a sophisticated and charming atmosphere. Elephant Bar is Phnom Penh’s most famous historical bar, once visited by Jaqueline Kennedy. It also offers fine cigars and piano music. Few places are more atmospheric than this sophisticated bar at the Raffles. It has been drawing journalists, politicos, and the rich and famous for more than 80 years.