Friday, August 28: Flying New York to Kayseri
JFK Airport: We parked at AirPark near the JFK Airport; with a coupon, parking is $11.77 per day, with the seventh day free. The transfer was quick and easy. Turkish Air is in Terminal 1 at JFK. There is a Martini Bar, Panini Express, Turkish cafe, and sports bar in the terminal. The terminal has a Duty Free shop, two Hudson News bookstores and a Thomas Cook money exchange (without Turkish lira, however). Also some high-end stores like Bulgari, Cartier, Clinique, Estee Lauder, Hermes, L’Occitaine, Mont Blanc, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Tumi.
International Flight: We flew Turkish Air non-stop from New York JFK to Istanbul, then had a four-hour layover before our flight to Kayseri. There was an earlier connection, but it would have left us with less than one hour layover between our international to domestic flights, and it didn’t seem likely that we would make it. As it turns out, in hindsight, it would have worked just fine. We did NOT need to claim our bags in Istanbul and recheck them, even though there was NO transit area. It takes about 10 minutes to walk (indoors) from the international terminal to the domestic terminal. While the bags were checked straight through, we did have to claim them in a special international arrivals area in Kayseri. If you are making this international-to-domestic connection, turn right after deplaning (on the runway--there’s no jetway). Do not follow the majority of passengers to the left through the domestic arrivals doorway (also don’t go through the middle doorway marked international departures). Internationally, we flew an Airbus A340 both over and back: six rows of business class, with economy class starting at row seven. The bulkhead (row seven) was primarily reserved for parents with infants, since it had the bassinet setup on the bulkhead. There was decent pitch between the seats, and the width was fine as well. Food was fine; service was better outbound than on the return. The personal video system left a bit to be desired. It was even worse on the return flight, when although it was seven days into the next month, they were still showing the previous month’s movies, despite the updated entertainment guide provided. I really can’t complain too much--for economy class, the flights went surprisingly well. You can reserve seats up to 90 days prior to departure for international flights. We were never able to reserve seats for our domestic flights, even though the website said that you could beginning at seven days prior. We were able to use online check-in for all flights to confirm seats; we got our domestic seat assignments during the online check-in process. You can get Star Alliance (e.g., United, US Airways) miles for your Turkish Air flight--just choose your airline program when checking in online. We called the New York offices of Turkish Air several times for various reasons--finding someone English-speaking was a chore.
Istanbul Ataturk Domestic Airport: There are several shops and restaurants and an ATM machine inside the initial security area, and several more within the departures area. (You need to go through security just to enter the airport and check in, then you must go through another security check before entering the boarding area.) Since July 2009, there is no smoking allowed anywhere inside public buildings in Turkey; therefore, no smoking inside the airport. It’s not a bad domestic terminal. You CAN go through the second set of security before they call your flight to the boarding area; the shops and restaurants are better inside the secure area.
Saturday, August 29: Cappadocia
Domestic Flight: Turkish Air from Istanbul to Kayseri. Even on a flight of an hour’s duration, we were served a snack-type meal (sandwich, etc.) and drinks, and there was general entertainment.
Airport Transfer: We were picked up at the Kayseri Airport and driven approximately 45 minutes to the Sacred House Hotel. Our transfer was arranged by Argeus Tourism through the hotel, which provided complementary airport pick-up for guests staying three nights or more. The arrival transfer was included in our room rate, but the return transfer was $17 YTL per person. It was a group transfer by van, not a private transfer, and we made several stops at other hotels along the way en route to the Sacred House.
Link to My Review of the Sacred House
Restaurant: We ate dinner at Kervan Restaurant in the town center in Urgup, just a short walk from the Sacred House. They took credit cards. This restaurant provided a nice (free) selection of appetizers (e.g., dips, olives, bread, nuts) because it was Ramadan, which was a really nice touch.
Sunday, August 30: More Cappadocia
Balloon Ride: We rose at 4:00 am for a hot-air balloon flight with Kapadokya Balloons in Goreme. We paid cash in order to get a 10% discount, but the price was still $330 USD per person for the longer deluxe flight. It was well worth it! Our balloon held about 12 people, so everyone had a great view. Our pilot Kaili, one of the previous owners of the company, was very skilled and adept at raising and lowering the balloon among the tufa chimneys. Champagne and cake is served upon touchdown, and you are awarded a flight certificate. The ground crew for the company was friendly, as was Pixie, Kaili’s dog!
Cappadocia Tour: After the balloon flight, we took a private tour with Lirita Tours, located in the town center in Urgup. We made our tour arrangements via the internet before leaving for Turkey; Zafer patiently answered each of my many questions. They take credit cards as payment. Our guide was Sami, a married father of three daughters, presumably in his early 50s; we also had a driver. On our first day of Cappadocia touring, we saw the Goreme open air museum, Avanos potters, Sarihan Caravanserai (where the whirling dervishes show takes place at night), Pigeon Valley, and the famous Fairy Chimneys. Our (included) lunch was at Uranos cave restaurant--a touristy spot that catered to buses and large groups. While it was not the type of place that we would have chosen, we were happy that we tried the local dish (Testi kabob) prepared in an earthenware pot that is broken open to spill its food contents onto individual plates (drinks were not included). Sami is a smoker and likes to take several breaks throughout the day; that would be my only complaint. I don’t think that smoking on the job is professional. I didn’t mind it at break times (and the breaks became something we looked forward to), but not while one is guiding, even if it is outdoors. Sami is very knowledgeable, though, so overall we were satisfied. We paid $115 USD per person per day for a private tour, not including tips. This was an interesting and enjoyable day.
Restaurant: We ate lunch at Uranos cave restaurant near Avanos and dinner at Somine Cafe and Restaurant in Urgup, just a short walk from Sacred House. We sat on the rooftop terrace. They take credit cards. This restaurant gets great reviews, but we felt the food and service was adequate but not outstanding.
Monday, August 31: Kayseri to Istanbul
Cappadocia Tour: Again, we toured with Lirita Tours and Sami for the day. We visited Kaymakli underground city, Sognali village, Sobesos (a newly-discovered ruin/site), and Mustafapasa Greek village. Our (included) lunch was at Sognali Restaurant, which was good--local food, outdoor seating, with opportunities for a little shopping after lunch (drinks were not included). Note that it is difficult to find the restrooms at Sognali Restaurant, so be sure to ask. Again, we paid $115 USD per person per day for a private tour, not including tips. A great day/well worth it!
Kayseri Airport: We arranged a transfer by Argeus Tours (seemingly in connection with Turkish Air) through the Sacred House. It took approximately 45 minutes to reach the airport from Urgup, and cost $17 YTL per person (cash only). It is necessary to go through a security check before even entering the airport to check-in, then a second check before entering the domestic boarding area. There is only one very small shop in the Erkilet Airport, which sells drinks, snacks, and souvenirs. It looked like there was a full-service restaurant inside the airport at one time; although we were at the airport later in the evening, the restaurant seemed closed-for-good rather than closed-for-the-day. There are decent restrooms. No smoking is allowed inside. Once you pass through the second security check to the domestic waiting area, there are NO restrooms and NO food/drink (but you can carry liquids inside with you), so don’t enter too early (you can come back out, though, if necessary). On the other hand, seating is limited, so be sure you don’t mind standing if you enter late. You board the planes on the tarmac--there are no jetways. This airport has international departures as well as domestic.
Istanbul Airport: Domestic arrivals is quick and easy, as is baggage claim. Taxis are plentiful. We were going to the Courtyard by Marriott Istanbul Airport, which offers a free shuttle every hour from 6:00 am to 11:00 pm, but it only stops at the international terminal rather than the domestic. Instead of walking 10 minutes from one terminal to the other, we hailed a cab, which cost about $12 YTL to reach the hotel. It was a quick 15-minute ride. We were travelling to a newly opened hotel (July 2009), so the cab driver had to ask another driver where to go. This problem should go away as the hotel becomes more publicized.
Link to My Review of the Courtyard by Marriott Istanbul Airport
Restaurants: Sognali Restaurant in Sognali for lunch, no dinner (because of the lack of service at the Courtyard Marriott Istanbul Airport)
Tuesday, September 1: Istanbul to Kusadasi
Airport Transfer: We took a cab from the Courtyard Marriott to the Ataturk Domestic Airport for about $15 YTL. Two cabs seemed to stay on-site at the hotel, so there was no waiting. We never actually saw the hotel shuttle at the hotel, but we did pass it at the international airport. The shuttle doesn’t begin running in the morning until 6:00 am, which was too late for our 7:00 am flight. It took about 15 minutes to reach the airport; a quick and easy drive.
Ataturk Domestic Airport: Food and drinks are expensive if you choose to sit down at a full-service restaurant (inside the second security). We paid about 50 YTL for two breakfast cheese sandwiches and two rounds of sodas at an Irish-looking pub.
Domestic Flight: We flew Atlas Jet from Istanbul to Izmir. The planes were less comfortable than Turkish Air domestic--there was less pitch between the seats. We were served a meal, and there was general entertainment.
Izmir Airport: No problems with arrivals; there are only three or so baggage claim belts, which is surprising for the airport serving Turkey’s third-largest city.
Ephesus Tour: We were picked up at the airport by our guide and driver from Ekol Travel. Ms. Nur Koray from Ekol patiently answered all our questions via e-mail. We paid with a credit card, which necessitated going to the Ekol office on our last day, which wasn’t a problem since we were in the area. A bit strange, though, since we paid a 20% deposit upon booking, so they had my credit card information. Our guide was Rabia, a 30-year old married woman, and Ali was our driver (a man of approximately the same age, having a young daughter). Rabia was probably the best guide we have ever had--friendly, personable, and knowledgeable--and excited about her job and her country. Our meals were not included during our three day tours in the Kusadasi area, but we ate (and paid for) lunch with Rabia and Ali each day, which was the greatest experience. Even paying for four people, our bill was always less than $50. On our first day in the Kusadasi area, we visited the Virgin Mary’s House (in hindsight, not being particularly religious, this wasn’t a must-see for us), Ephesus (not to be missed; definitely pay the extra money to see the Terrace Houses), and Sirince village. Lunch at Sirince Restaurant was excellent (possibly our favorite meal in Turkey), with Rabia and Ali ordering a variety of dishes that we could all share.
Link to My Review of the Korumar DeLuxe
Restaurants: We ate at Sirince Restaurant in Sirince for lunch, and at Manzara (seafood, alfresco) at the Korumar for dinner.
Wednesday, September 2: Pamukkale
Pamukkale Tour: Rabia and Ali from Ekol accompanied us to Pamukkale. It was a 3.5 hour drive each way, but worth it. We stopped halfway there at a rest area for a short break, along with the hordes of tour buses going our way for the day. We stopped at an old Greek village with a dilapidated church on the way, which was interesting, and we had breakfast in a nearby tea shop after stopping to pick up a variety of breakfast pastries (another great culinary experience with our guide and driver!) The limestone cliffs are being preserved by UNESCO, so it’s not guaranteed which ones wills be filled when you are there. They fill certain parts of the cliffs on certain days, but we were there on a lucky day and were able to take great photos of the white cliffs and the aqua pools. The Cleopatra Pool was a real letdown, however--very touristy and manufactured. We did not pay to swim there; instead, we rolled up our pant legs and waded through the natural pools. The Hierapolis ruins were an interesting addition to this day. The theatre is well preserved, as are the grave sites. We did not visit the museum (it was closed for a lunch break), but it looked well-maintained from the outside. We ate an excellent lunch near the bottom of the ruins at a Pide-Pizza place. Again, Rabia and Ali ordered a variety of delicious and interesting pide dishes for us to share.
Restaurants: We ate at Pide-Pizza in Pamukkale for lunch, and at Sedir (international, indoors) at the Korumar for dinner
Thursday, September 3: Priene, Miletus, and Didyma
Priene, Miletus, and Didyma Tour: Again, Rabia and Ali from Ekol drove us to all three of these sights. After seeing Ephesus and Hierapolis, we wondered whether we would be “ruined out”, and whether we would see a repetition of the things we had already seen. The answer is no--all three of these sights were interesting and different from each other and from our previous days. Priene had a small theatre and a very interesting field of broken columns/pillars from a temple. Miletus had a great theatre and well-preserved Roman baths. Didyma had the Temple of Apollo, which is a must-see in my book. We ate lunch at a touristy seafood restaurant in Didyma which we did not like. It had a main buffet of starters and accompaniments, and you chose the fish that you wanted prepared especially for you. If it hadn’t been for the resident cats in and around the restaurant, this meal would have been highly disappointing, compared with what we ate on the previous two days. To end the day, we walked around the Kusadasi port, the Caravanserai hotel, and peeked into a Turkish haman and mosque.
Restaurants: We had lunch in a fish restaurant in Didyma, and dinner at Sedir at the Korumar.
Friday, September 4: Kusadasi to Istanbul
Domestic Air: We flew Atlas Air from Izmir to Istanbul. As I said previously, I am surprised at the small size of the Izmir Airport. It took about 45 minutes to travel from Kusadasi to the airport. Check-in was easy, although we encountered the longest security line of our trip at this airport. Once through the second security, there are restrooms and two cafes within the boarding area. Seating space is a bit limited.
Airport Transfer: Our hotel, the Celal Sultan, provided complementary airport pick-up for guests staying three nights or more. The hotel has a large, comfortable van, and it took 30 minutes to reach the hotel from the airport.
Link to My Review of the Celal Sultan
Tour: We arranged via e-mail for Yavuz Odenz to be our private guide for three days in Istanbul. On our first day there, he had a family issue to attend to, so he arranged for his friend, Kutay, to accompany us to the Topkapi Palace and the Yerebatan Cistern. Yavuz felt badly about having to make the substitution, even offering us that day for free. We ended up paying anyway, since he was going to have to pay Kutay out of his own pocket, and also because Kutay was a good guide (not nearly as good as Yavuz, but I think he will get there someday as he gains more experience). I’m mentioning it so that you can appreciate how conscientious Yavuz is. At the Topkapi, pay the extra money for the Harem section; I thought it was worthwhile. The Topkapi is a must-see, and I thought the same of the Cistern. The colorful arches reminded us somewhat of the Mezquita in Cordoba, Spain, but underground. We were meant to see the Grand Bazaar as the ending to this day, but since we are not into shopping, we decided to forgo the visit and call it an early day for sightseeing.
Restaurants: We ate at Altin Kupa for happy hour (great meze plate) in Istanbul, and a restaurant on the corner of Incili Cavus Sokak and Selfali Sokak) in Sultanahmet for dinner.
Saturday, September 5: More Istanbul
Tour: Our big sights today were the Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. While we were bowled over by the inside of the Haghia Sophia, we were less so by the inside of the Blue Mosque. Both buildings are gorgeous from the outside and have many similarities, but inside is where they truly differ. It is necessary to remove your shoes inside the blue mosque, and also for women to cover their heads (shawls are provided). It is also important to dress conservatively to enter the Blue Mosque; again, the shawls can be wrapped around shoulders or waists if your dress is too skimpy. We saw the Spice Market (highly recommended), which also included a “pet shop” section, as Yavuz called it (it was more of an animal market for house pets, and quite interesting). From the Spice Market, we boarded a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul, which is much more modern. The ferry itself was the big draw so that we could see the major Istanbul sights from the water. We also took a Bosphorus Cruise later on this day, where we traveled upriver to view the towns along the coast (good views of the Kempinski Ciragan Palace and Four Seasons Bosphorus hotels), other Ottoman palaces, Rumelli Fortress, bridges, etc.
Restaurants: We went to Kybele Hotel in Sultanahmet for happy hour, Enjoyer Sultanahmet for dinner, and the Pudding Shop in Sultanahmet for dessert. We stopped at the Pudding Shop earlier in the day for some tea, and the owner was so friendly and (cafeteria-style) food looked so fresh and good (particularly a cake-like dessert that our guide called “poor man’s baklava”) that we decided to return for dessert.
Sunday, September 6: Even More Istanbul
Tour: We toured with Yavuz again, but this time by car. (Our previous two days were all done with walking, the ferry, and the cruise.) We drove around the old city walls of Istanbul, crossed to the Asian side (great photo ops of signs that say “Welcome to Asia” and “Welcome to Europe” on the return), Chora Church (great mosaics), Camlica Hill (good views), Pierre Loti Hill (good views, reached by gondola), Eyup Mosque and cemetery, and the Dolmabahce Palace (beautiful). I wondered whether three days was too much for touring in Istanbul, and it turned out to be just right. The third driving day wasn’t an absolute necessity, but it surely added more interest to our visit of the city.
Restaurants: We went to the Barbecue House in Sultanahmet for happy hour, and Mozaik in Sultanahmet for dinner.
Monday, September 7: Flying Istanbul to New York
The Celal Sultan hotel arranged our transportation back to the Istanbul airport for our international flight at a cost of 40 YTL, which they added to our hotel bill. I thought that price was more than fair. Even though a travel company was offering shared-van rides at 10 YTL per person, it was great to go straight to the airport at whatever time we wanted rather than having to accommodate other guests. Transportation was quick and easy; there was no traffic before 7 am on a Monday morning.
Istanbul Ataturk International Airport: Check-in at the airport was relatively easy, although our passports and e-tickets were examined at least three times before even reaching the Turkish Air check-in counter. There are shops, bars, restaurants inside the secure area. It is necessary to enter another security area to board the aircraft. Security to enter this area was rather strict; no liquids allowed, even those purchased inside security within the greater airport area. Many people who had bought coffee, water, drinks to bring onboard had them confiscated. There were drink and snack machines within this second secure area, but it was necessary to have Turkish bills or coins, and we had spent them all outside the gate waiting area. There were also restrooms within this second secure area. Boarding was somewhat chaotic, but went quickly. Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential and star of No Reservations on the Travel Channel, was on our Turkish Air flight back to New York. He sat in business class, while his crew sat with us in coach. He seemed really down-to-earth, and no one bothered him for autographs or photos. I gave him credit for waiting for the flights with his crew, and not in the business class lounge like he was entitled too. He waited for his luggage when arriving in New York, just like all of us “regular folk”. I’m looking forward to his show on Turkey--on his website blog, he describes it as a “freakin’ foodie paradise”, and I would have to agree. It was an excellent trip!
Restaurants:
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