Hyannis Harbor Hotel Link to my review
September 1
Atlantic Motel Link to my review
September 2
MGM at Foxwoods Link to my review
Cape Cod: Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket (September 2008)
August 29-September 1
Hyannis Harbor Hotel Link to my review
September 1
Atlantic Motel Link to my review
September 2
MGM at Foxwoods Link to my review
Hyannis Harbor Hotel Link to my review
September 1
Atlantic Motel Link to my review
September 2
MGM at Foxwoods Link to my review
Cape Cod: MGM at Foxwoods (September 2008)
We spent a great (unplanned) night here. The rooms are in a tower of at least 28 floors (we were on the 25th). Rooms were very comfortable, with a king bed, chair/ottoman, desk, etc. Flat screen TVs, rainfall shower heads, deluxe toiletries (although the conditioner bottle left a little to be desired), nice towels, robes, and bedding. Mini-bars are weighted, so don't even touch if you don't plan to buy. The outdoor pool is lovely, with several cabanas for rent ($199 on weekdays, $299 on weekends) and include deluxe seating areas, TV, mister/chiller unit, refrigerator. Plenty of chairs by the pool, and well-staffed. Quite a few restaurants surrounding the casino floor, Shrine (Asian), Alta Strada (Italian), Juniors (NY deli/cheesecake), Tom Coliccio's CraftSteak, plus a food court and other take-out options. A few higher-end stores, also a gift shop/sundries shop. Concierge service, valet parking available. Connected to the original Foxwoods Resort/Casino by indoor moving walkways/escalators. As far as amenities/shopping, I liked the "old" Foxwoods area better than the MGM area, but I really prefer the Mohegan Sun to both of those.
Cape Cod: Hyannis Harbor Hotel (September 2008)
As the name states, it is RIGHT on the harbor, so if access to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket is in order, this is the place! Hy-Line Ferry is right across the street, with Steamship Authority just steps further. We felt really unfortunate in the room that we were assigned--directly over the laundry room and also next to the rear entrance, so it was VERY loud at all hours of the day and night, without any privacy. We did not book the most expensive room, and it was obvious that there were much nicer accommodations than we were given (even within our own room category). Rooms had a DVD player, TV, refrigerator, clock radio, hairdryer, safe. Some (decent) toiletries provided. Linens acceptable and modern, but not luxurious. The owners have done much to update what looked to be an older property. In addition to adding a new lobby area, they added a great outdoor patio, with comfy chairs and couches and an open firepit. The indoor and outdoor pools looked adequate, with two additional baby pools as well. The bar/restaurant area looked fine as well, but there were better options (in our opinion) steps away. We ate at the Black Cat and Spanky's Clam Shack, which were both good. There is a breakfast/cafe across the street adjacent to the ferry, as well as an evening Raw Bar. (The hotel breakfast was either $7 for continental or $11 for a pitiful buffet; the selections and prices across the street were much better.) Parking is free, which saves you about $15 to $17 per day.
Cape Cod: Atlantic Wareham Motel (September 2008)
We spent one unplanned night here when our car broke down on the way home from a weekend in Cape Cod. While I wouldn't have stayed here otherwise, the motel was perfectly acceptable. Our room was clean, with a king-size bed and small table and chairs (more comfortable club chairs than simple dining chairs). Decor seemed a bit different for every room, but was modern and up-to-date. Not the finest mattresses or linens, but more than adequate. There is a small outdoor pool, but you must request access because the owners keep it padlocked. The motel is two story, with all non-smoking rooms (but you can smoke outside on the porch/upper walkway). TV, phone, iron/board, hairdryer provided, but very limited/basic toiletries. Without a car, we were still able to walk to a number of places, including a convenience store, pizza shop, and Chinese food restaurant right around the corner. Also close by are a Chili's and a Ninety-Nine Steakhouse, and a strip mall with a Wal-Mart, grocery store, Blockbuster (although there is no DVD or VCR in the room), TJ Maxx, liquor store, fast food outlets, and a water park (seasonal). Look for this hotel’s website online at www dot atlanticmotel dot net--for such a small property, they have an extensive website with good links. AAA discount available.
Wareham: Ninety-Nine Steakhouse (September 2008)
At Wareham's Ninety Nine Restaurant, you can snack away on tasty pub grub. Whether you have something to celebrate or just need something to take the edge off, the drink menu at this restaurant won't disappoint. The restaurant's founder, Charlie Doe, had an idea to create a restaurant that was more than a place that served great food. Charlie wanted to give locals a place where they'd always feel at home. A place where they could get no-nonsense food at down-to-earth prices, and where they'd be treated right by people who had a passion to serve. The culture at the Ninety Nine Restaurants was instilled by Charlie Doe long before a mission statement was ever written down on paper and is still evident today. At the Ninety Nine, guests, team members, community and stakeholders are all treated with respect. Our inviting, comfortable dining room is the perfect place to enjoy a great meal. Or, grab a seat at our neighborhood pub-like bar. The Ninety Nine Restaurant & Pub is headquartered in Woburn, MA and is proud to serve more than 20 million guests a year in over 100 restaurants throughout the Northeast. They treat people right, and that's what makes new guests feel welcome, and regulars feel right at home.
Nantucket: Arnos Main Street Grill (September 2008)
My spouse and I ate lunch at Arnos Main Street Grill in early September 2008. While our food was good, the entire dining experience was tainted by our non-existent server. We arrive for a very early dinner (5:00 pm) due to having to catch a ferry, so we were one of only a handful of tables at that time. Two servers waited on approximately five tables. Our server took our multi-course order, then proceeded to deliver one course directly after another, setting the next courses plates on the table along with the previous courses plates, which we were still eating. After delivering all those courses, he promptly disappear. Actually, disappeared would mean that we couldn't see him, when that was not the case. He stood out on the street and watched traffic and people go by for nearly an hour, never returning inside to check on us again. (We had plenty of food, but no drinks, never having been offered a refill.) We finally had to wave down the manager to get our check, but she handled the situation equally poorly, without even an apology. Unbelievable! I would spend my money elsewhere. I had high hopes due to the Wine Spectator and Zagat's association, but this was truly a waste of a good day on Nantucket. There are so many other options available--no one deserves to be absolutely IGNORED--not only by their server, but by other servers, the idle bartender, and the management.
Milpitas CA: Larkspur Landing Milpitas (August 2008)
I enjoyed my 3-night stay at the Larkspur Landing Milipitas for business reasons.
It's definitely a step above other "residential" hotels that I've stayed
in (e.g., Residence Inn, Extended Stay). I think part of its appeal is
the colors and decor chosen for the hotel--its more homey than the usual
off-white walls, etc. There is a breakfast buffet and evening munchies
(minus the alcoholic beverages), plus round-the-clock lemonade and
cookies on the front desk. Staff was more helpful here than other places
that I've stayed. There is a TINY exercise room (one treadmill, one
elliptical trainer, a few free weights), and a TINY outdoor jacuzzi. The
lobby/breakfast/cocktail area is pleasant, with a fireplace and comfy
furniture. The business/computer center is easily accessible, there's
free wireless access, and it's simple to print from your room right to
the business center computers (great for printing your boarding pass,
directions, etc.). There is a Hilton Garden Inn right across the parking
lot, along with an In-and-Out Burger, sushi restaurant, Starbucks,
McDonalds, Carabbas, On-the-Border (Mexican restaurant), Black Angus
Steakhouse, strip mall (with Borders bookstore, office supply store,
Ross Dress-for-Less)--a good location to stay and that has a little to
do/places to eat without having to drive anywhere. The hotel is located
about 10 minutes from the San Jose Airport and right near several
freeways. I wish there were more locations of this hotel brand available
in the US. While I wouldn't have booked this hotel for myself (I
probably would have chosen the aforementioned Hilton Garden), I'm glad
that my corporate travel department chose this for me instead, because I
found a new favorite economical brand when I'm near/on the Pacific
Coast.
Alaska (August 2008)
Hotels:
Alaska Trip Report (Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali, Fairbanks, Barrow, Copper River, McCarthy/Kennicott, Homer, Seward, Whittier, and Girdwood)
Summary: Below is a report from my trip to Alaska in August of 2008. My husband and I (late 30s) spent 10 days driving (and flying) throughout Alaska, with stops in Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali, Fairbanks, Barrow, Copper River, McCarthy/Kennicott, Homer, Seward, Whittier, and Girdwood. Activities included an ice falls trek, Mt. McKinley flightseeing/glacier landing, trip above the Arctic Circle to Barrow, historic mine tour, brown bear safari, glacier kayaking, and glacier dogsledding. The popular Inside Passage cruise was NOT part of our itinerary, but we would like to return to Alaska someday to see that area of the state. Regarding lodging, even though we felt we stayed in the best hotels possible in each location, the accomodations were 3 star at best (the Alyeska Resort was the exception). We were disappointed with the food; we expected to have lots of fresh seafood, and it just didn’t seem to be available (most seafood was breaded/deep-fried, despite eating in what we felt were “better” restaurants). We had fairly decent weather, despite it being one of the rainiest summers in Alaskan history. We had an equal number of sunny, cloudy, and rainy days. Fortunately, two of our rainy days happened when we had long drives planned, but one did happen on the day we went glacier kayaking, making the day less enjoyable than it could have been. With all that said, Alaska is beautiful, the people are friendly, it’s easy to navigate/drive, and the opportunities for unique activites are endless. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
August 6: Newark to Eagle River (Anchorage)
Flight: Newark to Anchorage (with a stop in Seattle) on Continental.
Link to My Review of the Eagle River Microtel
August 7: Eagle River (Anchorage) to Talkeetna, Including an Ice Falls Trek
Activity: MICA Guides Ice Falls Trek on the Matanuska Glacier: We chose the 3-hour tour, which may have been a bit too long/repetitive, but the alternate 1.5 hour tour would have been too short, I think. We paid $70 per person, plus a $15 per person glacier access fee (all paid right to MICA using a credit card). They outfitted us with helmets and crampons, which were easy to use and not at all clumsy. (There were times later in my trip that I wish I still had them with me.) The trek was very easy; nothing too taxing physically. Although we began at ground level and ended up a good deal above sea level, I never felt as though we were climbing at any significant rate. We saw lots of ice formations and crevasses that were very interesting. Our guide, Andreas, took lots of photos of us. We had some light rain/drizzle, but I wore a "Deadliest Catch" Red Ledge rain suit that worked tremendously. Sun glasses would be a must on a bright day because of the glare. I would recommend at least the 1.5 hour tour for an interesting peek at the glacier.
Link to My Review of the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge (Alaska Heritage Tours Group)
Link to My Review of the West Rib Cafe (Talkeetna)
August 8: Talkeetna to Fairbanks, Including a Glacier Landing Flight and a Drive Through Denali
Activity: Talkeetna Aero Taxi/Fly Denali: We chose the Circle Denali tour with a glacier landing. We used a five seater plane, so there were four passengers and the pilot sitting in a 2, 2, 1 configuration. We wore headsets to speak to each other while flying. The sightseeing was amazing, and the landing on Pica Glacier was a great experience. We had a perfectly sunny day, so we caught that rare glimpse of Denali along with many other surrounding mountains. I would highly recommend this tour.
Talkeetna Airport Info: Each airline seems to have its own building.
Link to My Review of the Nenana Grill (at the McKinley Chalet Resort near Denali)
Link to My Review of the Princess Fairbanks
Link to My Review of Pike’s Waterfront Lodge
August 9 Fairbanks to Barrow to Fairbanks: Traveling Above the Arctic Circle
Activity: Barrow Trip: We used Northern Alaska Tour Company to arrange our trip. It was less expensive than going directly through Alaska Air. We still flew on Alaska Air, and ended up on the same Tundra Tour that their guests booked. Our flight left Fairbanks around 7:30, arriving in Barrow around 10:15 (we had a 1-hour stop in Prudhoe Bay, but could not deplane). We were met at the Barrow Airport by Eli from Tundra Tours. He drove our group around in a big, white school bus (which was more comfortable than it first seemed that it would be). Our tour included stops at the Will Rogers/Wiley Post Memorial, where there’s also a directional signpost with mileage to other US/world cities (good for photos). There’s also a large circular Welcome to Barrow sign for additional photos, along with a (really) small welcome center with excellent photographs (available online). We stopped at the Inupiat sign with the snowy owl and looked out on the cliffs where the original sod houses were built. We had a few stops to see the Arctic Ocean and whaling boats. We visited the Inupiat Heritage Center, which is much more expansive than I had seen online. There is a great whaling exhibit and other artifacts, a stuffed bird display, and the main attraction, the live cultural presentation, where native people sing, dance, and do the blanket toss. We visited Point Barrow, a large supermarket, the whalebone arch, and the Top of the World sign. The last stop was the Polar Bear Club swim, where to be certified, you actually have to completely immerse yourself in the water. Even though we were there on what I felt to be a beautiful “summer” day, there’s no way you could have paid me to take that icy dip! Lunch was not included, but choices were Osaka Japanese (where we ate), Pepe’s North of the Border, and Arctic Pizza. Note that if you want the promised “I crossed the Arctic Circle” certificate, you MUST eat at Pepe’s. This was not specified in the tour description; it sounded as if everyone who went on the tour automatically got the certificate, but that’s not true. You had to buy something food-wise from Pepe’s to get the certificate. If you bought an entire meal, the certificate was nicer than if you just bought a dessert or something “to go”. That was the only real rip-off of the whole tour. While not an inexpensive trip, I would recommend it and am glad we decided to go. I’m also glad that we did not choose the overnight option: there would have been nothing additional to do or anywhere else to eat other than what we saw during the day.) We returned to Fairbanks at approximately 9:20 pm. (The plane originated and continued to Anchorage for people taking the trip from there.)
Fairbanks Airport Info: Smallish but well-appointed. At least two shops, bar, coffee shop, restaurant. Parking is reasonable. Some flights are boarded without jetways, and it may be necessary to descend/climb steps to get to the tarmac.
Barrow Airport Info: Very small and basic; no bar, restaurant, or shop. There is a soda machine and a snack machine. Some seating. You go through security right before boarding, not after checking in or before the waiting area. No jetways.
Link to My Review of Osaka Restaurant (Barrow)
Restaurant: Trackers Lounge (Fairbanks Princess)
Hotel: Fairbanks Princess again (one of our few 2-night stays)
August 10 Fairbanks to McCarthy/Kennicott (Driving Day)
Activity: Flew Wrangell Mountain Air from Chitina to McCarthy/Kennicott
Chitina Airport Info: No facilities whatsoever. There is a building which serves as a ticket office, but it wasn’t open when we flew to/from there. We just waited in our car until we saw our plane land. No security check-in.
McCarthy/Kennicott Airport Info: Outhouse/restrooms, and on a positive note, they were decently maintained. No building in which to wait. No security check-in.
Link to My Review of the Kennicott Glacier Lodge
Restaurant: Glacier View Grill (McCarthy): see review above
August 11 McCarthy/Kennicott to Copper River
Activity: Kennicott Mine Tour with St. Elias Guides: RECOMMENDED, see review above
Link to My Review of the Copper River Princess
Link to My Review of the Whistle Stop Bar and Grill (Copper River Princess)
August 12 Copper River to Homer via Anchorage (Driving Day)
Link to My Review of Orso (Anchorage)
Link to My Review of the Land’s End Hotel (Homer)
Link to My Review of Captain Pattie’s Fish House (Homer)
August 13 Homer to Seward, Including Bear Watching
Homer Airport Info: While we did not depart from the actual airport (but instead, a building on the opposite side of the runway), we did stop in to see it. There are tons of pamphlets/brochures on Homer, and counters for Era and Grant and car rentals. No bar, restaurant, or shop. No visible security to enter the building, so you must go through right before boarding.
Activity: Bear Viewing with Smokey Bay Air to the Alaska Homestead Lodge (AHL): The best excursion of our trip! (Not to mention the most expensive at nearly $600 per person for a full day). We left from a building opposite the Homer Airport around 8:00 am and returned at approximately 5:00 pm (times vary based on the tides, since you are landing on the beach in Lake Clark National Park). It was about a 30-40 minute flight each way (we took the long way there due to weather, but the short way back). We were in a “puddle-jumper” plane with just 5 people on the way out, and 6 people on the way back. We saw bears IMMEDIATELY upon landing at Lake Clark, and continued to see them for the next few hours. We chose Smokey Bay Air because they partnered with the Alaska Homestead Lodge, where we knew we could return for lunch and restroom breaks, etc. rather than being stranded with just the woods with what we brought with us (as the other more popular/more famous companies do). Our guide from AHL picked us up on the beach with an ATV pulling a wagon. While we were told that we could be with as many as 20 people on the ground, it was just my husband and I and one other couple (and 4 people would be the max to fit in the wagon, so even if there are 20 people, you would be in 5 wagons with 5 guides, I guess). Our guide was really sweet and knowledgeable, a young guy from Montana working his first summer in Alaska (but with bear experience from back home). We spotted lots of sows and cubs (so cute!) and had many opportunities to get out of the wagon and walk close to the bears to take photos, etc. (The bears are NOT scared by the sound of the ATVs, nor do they seem to be scared of people, as I had initially feared.) The bear viewing rivalled our East African safari experience last summer: not nearly the variety of animals, but we did see lots of bears, and I felt that we got even closer in the ATV and on foot than we did in the open Land Rovers in Africa. AHL is a nice place; they have a separate “game room” building where there’s a big-screen TV, dining table and kitchen where you are served lunch (or out on the deck in nice weather), two bathrooms (one with a shower), computer, gift cabinet, stuffed/mounted animals. This bear-viewing option really worked for us, and was well-worth the money.
Link to My Review of Trail Lake Lodge Restaurant (Moose Pass between Anchorage and Seward)
Link to My Review of the Holiday Inn Express (Seward)
August 14 Seward and Whittier
Activity: We were supposed to kayak today, but the trip was postponed until tomorrow due to rough seas. So we switched our plans for August 14 and 15, and drove to Whittier instead. Whittier was disappointing, and we felt it was a waste of our time. There’s not much to do/see in Seward, either, in my opinion. It’s a cute town, but it’s not a must-see. It is a convenient place to take a wildlife cruise or kayaking tour, though, so if that interests, you, then add Seward (or Whittier) to your itinerary. The Whittier tunnel is a snooze.
Restaurant: Inn at Whittier: We ate here in the bar area of the restaurant. We did not stay here, but it is the ONLY place to stay in Whittier (I don’t mean that literally; just that the other lodging that we saw was horrible). I can’t say the food was great, but again, it seemed to be the only option in Whittier. We debated upon staying in Whittier rather than just visiting, which would have been a mistake. Not much to see or do here, other than to take a day cruise. Parking in Whittier was difficult, and we were there on a rainy day when it wasn’t very busy. Not a pretty city at all. I would skip this city altogether, if at all possible, but the Inn itself looked fairly nice.
Link to My Review of Ray’s Waterfront (Seward)
August 15 Seward to Anchorage, Including Glacier Kayaking
Activity: Glacier Kayaking with Sunny Cove Sea Kayaking Company: RECOMMENDED. We were scheduled to do this on the previous (full) day in Seward, but the trip was postponed due to bad weather. The day we did go was very rainy and cold, and the weather was just plain nasty. We saw a little wildlife, but not as much as we had hoped or expected. We enjoyed the kayaking, but the weather was a real downer. Would love to do this again under sunny skies. I chose Sunny Cove because they had a boat with a head (restroom), unlike lots of other companies, and it seemed like too long a day not to have a bathroom break. It was a fairly comfortable ride in the cabin, a little crowded, though, because no one could be out on the deck because of the rain.
Link to My Review of the Alyeska Resort (Girdwood, outside Anchorage)
Restaurant: Link to my review
August 16 Anchorage to Newark (with a stop in Seattle) on Continental, including Glacier Dog Sledding
Activity: Chugach Express Dog Sledding with Alpine Air Alaska Helicopters (Girdwood): RECOMMENDED.This company was more expensive than some others, but we dogsledded on actual ice/snow with an Iditarod team at their "summer camp", rather than on sand/ground. We traveled to the camp by helicopter. Appropriate attire was provided. We were the only participants, so we got a really private tour of the camp, spent time with the dogs (there was no litter of puppies, though; I was hoping for that), and then mushed with the dogs. Very exhilarating! We had dogsledded years before in Vermont, and it was nothing like that. Really professional and exciting!
Restaurant: Flying Machine/Fancy Moose (at Millennium Alaskan Hotel near the Anchorage airport): It was great to sit on the deck adjacent to the seaplane landing lake and enjoy some great weather and fresh air before heading to the airport for our evening flight. Food was nothing to rave about, but proximity to the airport and the outdoor seating area were appreciated.
Alaska Airports
- Eagle River Microtel Link to my review
- Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge Link to my review
- Fairbanks Princess Link to my review
- Kennicott Glacier Lodge Link to my review
- Copper River Princess Link to my review
- Land's End Resort Link to my review
- Holiday Inn Express Seward Link to my review
- Alyeska Resort Link to my review
- Osaka Restaurant Link to my review
- Trackers Lounge Link to my review
- Captain Pattie’s Fish House Link to my review
- Trail Lake Lodge Restaurant (Moose Pass) Link to my review
- Ray’s Waterfront Link to my review
- Jack Sprat Link to my review
- Orso Link to my review
Alaska Trip Report (Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali, Fairbanks, Barrow, Copper River, McCarthy/Kennicott, Homer, Seward, Whittier, and Girdwood)
Summary: Below is a report from my trip to Alaska in August of 2008. My husband and I (late 30s) spent 10 days driving (and flying) throughout Alaska, with stops in Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali, Fairbanks, Barrow, Copper River, McCarthy/Kennicott, Homer, Seward, Whittier, and Girdwood. Activities included an ice falls trek, Mt. McKinley flightseeing/glacier landing, trip above the Arctic Circle to Barrow, historic mine tour, brown bear safari, glacier kayaking, and glacier dogsledding. The popular Inside Passage cruise was NOT part of our itinerary, but we would like to return to Alaska someday to see that area of the state. Regarding lodging, even though we felt we stayed in the best hotels possible in each location, the accomodations were 3 star at best (the Alyeska Resort was the exception). We were disappointed with the food; we expected to have lots of fresh seafood, and it just didn’t seem to be available (most seafood was breaded/deep-fried, despite eating in what we felt were “better” restaurants). We had fairly decent weather, despite it being one of the rainiest summers in Alaskan history. We had an equal number of sunny, cloudy, and rainy days. Fortunately, two of our rainy days happened when we had long drives planned, but one did happen on the day we went glacier kayaking, making the day less enjoyable than it could have been. With all that said, Alaska is beautiful, the people are friendly, it’s easy to navigate/drive, and the opportunities for unique activites are endless. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
August 6: Newark to Eagle River (Anchorage)
Flight: Newark to Anchorage (with a stop in Seattle) on Continental.
Link to My Review of the Eagle River Microtel
August 7: Eagle River (Anchorage) to Talkeetna, Including an Ice Falls Trek
Activity: MICA Guides Ice Falls Trek on the Matanuska Glacier: We chose the 3-hour tour, which may have been a bit too long/repetitive, but the alternate 1.5 hour tour would have been too short, I think. We paid $70 per person, plus a $15 per person glacier access fee (all paid right to MICA using a credit card). They outfitted us with helmets and crampons, which were easy to use and not at all clumsy. (There were times later in my trip that I wish I still had them with me.) The trek was very easy; nothing too taxing physically. Although we began at ground level and ended up a good deal above sea level, I never felt as though we were climbing at any significant rate. We saw lots of ice formations and crevasses that were very interesting. Our guide, Andreas, took lots of photos of us. We had some light rain/drizzle, but I wore a "Deadliest Catch" Red Ledge rain suit that worked tremendously. Sun glasses would be a must on a bright day because of the glare. I would recommend at least the 1.5 hour tour for an interesting peek at the glacier.
Link to My Review of the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge (Alaska Heritage Tours Group)
Link to My Review of the West Rib Cafe (Talkeetna)
August 8: Talkeetna to Fairbanks, Including a Glacier Landing Flight and a Drive Through Denali
Activity: Talkeetna Aero Taxi/Fly Denali: We chose the Circle Denali tour with a glacier landing. We used a five seater plane, so there were four passengers and the pilot sitting in a 2, 2, 1 configuration. We wore headsets to speak to each other while flying. The sightseeing was amazing, and the landing on Pica Glacier was a great experience. We had a perfectly sunny day, so we caught that rare glimpse of Denali along with many other surrounding mountains. I would highly recommend this tour.
Talkeetna Airport Info: Each airline seems to have its own building.
Link to My Review of the Nenana Grill (at the McKinley Chalet Resort near Denali)
Link to My Review of the Princess Fairbanks
Link to My Review of Pike’s Waterfront Lodge
August 9 Fairbanks to Barrow to Fairbanks: Traveling Above the Arctic Circle
Activity: Barrow Trip: We used Northern Alaska Tour Company to arrange our trip. It was less expensive than going directly through Alaska Air. We still flew on Alaska Air, and ended up on the same Tundra Tour that their guests booked. Our flight left Fairbanks around 7:30, arriving in Barrow around 10:15 (we had a 1-hour stop in Prudhoe Bay, but could not deplane). We were met at the Barrow Airport by Eli from Tundra Tours. He drove our group around in a big, white school bus (which was more comfortable than it first seemed that it would be). Our tour included stops at the Will Rogers/Wiley Post Memorial, where there’s also a directional signpost with mileage to other US/world cities (good for photos). There’s also a large circular Welcome to Barrow sign for additional photos, along with a (really) small welcome center with excellent photographs (available online). We stopped at the Inupiat sign with the snowy owl and looked out on the cliffs where the original sod houses were built. We had a few stops to see the Arctic Ocean and whaling boats. We visited the Inupiat Heritage Center, which is much more expansive than I had seen online. There is a great whaling exhibit and other artifacts, a stuffed bird display, and the main attraction, the live cultural presentation, where native people sing, dance, and do the blanket toss. We visited Point Barrow, a large supermarket, the whalebone arch, and the Top of the World sign. The last stop was the Polar Bear Club swim, where to be certified, you actually have to completely immerse yourself in the water. Even though we were there on what I felt to be a beautiful “summer” day, there’s no way you could have paid me to take that icy dip! Lunch was not included, but choices were Osaka Japanese (where we ate), Pepe’s North of the Border, and Arctic Pizza. Note that if you want the promised “I crossed the Arctic Circle” certificate, you MUST eat at Pepe’s. This was not specified in the tour description; it sounded as if everyone who went on the tour automatically got the certificate, but that’s not true. You had to buy something food-wise from Pepe’s to get the certificate. If you bought an entire meal, the certificate was nicer than if you just bought a dessert or something “to go”. That was the only real rip-off of the whole tour. While not an inexpensive trip, I would recommend it and am glad we decided to go. I’m also glad that we did not choose the overnight option: there would have been nothing additional to do or anywhere else to eat other than what we saw during the day.) We returned to Fairbanks at approximately 9:20 pm. (The plane originated and continued to Anchorage for people taking the trip from there.)
Fairbanks Airport Info: Smallish but well-appointed. At least two shops, bar, coffee shop, restaurant. Parking is reasonable. Some flights are boarded without jetways, and it may be necessary to descend/climb steps to get to the tarmac.
Barrow Airport Info: Very small and basic; no bar, restaurant, or shop. There is a soda machine and a snack machine. Some seating. You go through security right before boarding, not after checking in or before the waiting area. No jetways.
Link to My Review of Osaka Restaurant (Barrow)
Restaurant: Trackers Lounge (Fairbanks Princess)
Hotel: Fairbanks Princess again (one of our few 2-night stays)
August 10 Fairbanks to McCarthy/Kennicott (Driving Day)
Activity: Flew Wrangell Mountain Air from Chitina to McCarthy/Kennicott
Chitina Airport Info: No facilities whatsoever. There is a building which serves as a ticket office, but it wasn’t open when we flew to/from there. We just waited in our car until we saw our plane land. No security check-in.
McCarthy/Kennicott Airport Info: Outhouse/restrooms, and on a positive note, they were decently maintained. No building in which to wait. No security check-in.
Link to My Review of the Kennicott Glacier Lodge
Restaurant: Glacier View Grill (McCarthy): see review above
August 11 McCarthy/Kennicott to Copper River
Activity: Kennicott Mine Tour with St. Elias Guides: RECOMMENDED, see review above
Link to My Review of the Copper River Princess
Link to My Review of the Whistle Stop Bar and Grill (Copper River Princess)
August 12 Copper River to Homer via Anchorage (Driving Day)
Link to My Review of Orso (Anchorage)
Link to My Review of the Land’s End Hotel (Homer)
Link to My Review of Captain Pattie’s Fish House (Homer)
August 13 Homer to Seward, Including Bear Watching
Homer Airport Info: While we did not depart from the actual airport (but instead, a building on the opposite side of the runway), we did stop in to see it. There are tons of pamphlets/brochures on Homer, and counters for Era and Grant and car rentals. No bar, restaurant, or shop. No visible security to enter the building, so you must go through right before boarding.
Activity: Bear Viewing with Smokey Bay Air to the Alaska Homestead Lodge (AHL): The best excursion of our trip! (Not to mention the most expensive at nearly $600 per person for a full day). We left from a building opposite the Homer Airport around 8:00 am and returned at approximately 5:00 pm (times vary based on the tides, since you are landing on the beach in Lake Clark National Park). It was about a 30-40 minute flight each way (we took the long way there due to weather, but the short way back). We were in a “puddle-jumper” plane with just 5 people on the way out, and 6 people on the way back. We saw bears IMMEDIATELY upon landing at Lake Clark, and continued to see them for the next few hours. We chose Smokey Bay Air because they partnered with the Alaska Homestead Lodge, where we knew we could return for lunch and restroom breaks, etc. rather than being stranded with just the woods with what we brought with us (as the other more popular/more famous companies do). Our guide from AHL picked us up on the beach with an ATV pulling a wagon. While we were told that we could be with as many as 20 people on the ground, it was just my husband and I and one other couple (and 4 people would be the max to fit in the wagon, so even if there are 20 people, you would be in 5 wagons with 5 guides, I guess). Our guide was really sweet and knowledgeable, a young guy from Montana working his first summer in Alaska (but with bear experience from back home). We spotted lots of sows and cubs (so cute!) and had many opportunities to get out of the wagon and walk close to the bears to take photos, etc. (The bears are NOT scared by the sound of the ATVs, nor do they seem to be scared of people, as I had initially feared.) The bear viewing rivalled our East African safari experience last summer: not nearly the variety of animals, but we did see lots of bears, and I felt that we got even closer in the ATV and on foot than we did in the open Land Rovers in Africa. AHL is a nice place; they have a separate “game room” building where there’s a big-screen TV, dining table and kitchen where you are served lunch (or out on the deck in nice weather), two bathrooms (one with a shower), computer, gift cabinet, stuffed/mounted animals. This bear-viewing option really worked for us, and was well-worth the money.
Link to My Review of Trail Lake Lodge Restaurant (Moose Pass between Anchorage and Seward)
Link to My Review of the Holiday Inn Express (Seward)
August 14 Seward and Whittier
Activity: We were supposed to kayak today, but the trip was postponed until tomorrow due to rough seas. So we switched our plans for August 14 and 15, and drove to Whittier instead. Whittier was disappointing, and we felt it was a waste of our time. There’s not much to do/see in Seward, either, in my opinion. It’s a cute town, but it’s not a must-see. It is a convenient place to take a wildlife cruise or kayaking tour, though, so if that interests, you, then add Seward (or Whittier) to your itinerary. The Whittier tunnel is a snooze.
Restaurant: Inn at Whittier: We ate here in the bar area of the restaurant. We did not stay here, but it is the ONLY place to stay in Whittier (I don’t mean that literally; just that the other lodging that we saw was horrible). I can’t say the food was great, but again, it seemed to be the only option in Whittier. We debated upon staying in Whittier rather than just visiting, which would have been a mistake. Not much to see or do here, other than to take a day cruise. Parking in Whittier was difficult, and we were there on a rainy day when it wasn’t very busy. Not a pretty city at all. I would skip this city altogether, if at all possible, but the Inn itself looked fairly nice.
Link to My Review of Ray’s Waterfront (Seward)
August 15 Seward to Anchorage, Including Glacier Kayaking
Activity: Glacier Kayaking with Sunny Cove Sea Kayaking Company: RECOMMENDED. We were scheduled to do this on the previous (full) day in Seward, but the trip was postponed due to bad weather. The day we did go was very rainy and cold, and the weather was just plain nasty. We saw a little wildlife, but not as much as we had hoped or expected. We enjoyed the kayaking, but the weather was a real downer. Would love to do this again under sunny skies. I chose Sunny Cove because they had a boat with a head (restroom), unlike lots of other companies, and it seemed like too long a day not to have a bathroom break. It was a fairly comfortable ride in the cabin, a little crowded, though, because no one could be out on the deck because of the rain.
Link to My Review of the Alyeska Resort (Girdwood, outside Anchorage)
Restaurant: Link to my review
August 16 Anchorage to Newark (with a stop in Seattle) on Continental, including Glacier Dog Sledding
Activity: Chugach Express Dog Sledding with Alpine Air Alaska Helicopters (Girdwood): RECOMMENDED.This company was more expensive than some others, but we dogsledded on actual ice/snow with an Iditarod team at their "summer camp", rather than on sand/ground. We traveled to the camp by helicopter. Appropriate attire was provided. We were the only participants, so we got a really private tour of the camp, spent time with the dogs (there was no litter of puppies, though; I was hoping for that), and then mushed with the dogs. Very exhilarating! We had dogsledded years before in Vermont, and it was nothing like that. Really professional and exciting!
Restaurant: Flying Machine/Fancy Moose (at Millennium Alaskan Hotel near the Anchorage airport): It was great to sit on the deck adjacent to the seaplane landing lake and enjoy some great weather and fresh air before heading to the airport for our evening flight. Food was nothing to rave about, but proximity to the airport and the outdoor seating area were appreciated.
Alaska Airports
- Barrow: Very small and basic; no bar, restaurant, or shop. There is a soda machine and a snack machine. Some seating. You go through security right before boarding, not after checking in or before the waiting area. No jetways.
- Fairbanks: Smallish but well-appointed. At least two shops, bar, coffee shop, restaurant. Parking is reasonable. Some flights are boarded without jetways, and it may be necessary to descend/climb steps to get to the tarmac.
- Talkeetna: Each airline seems to have its own building.
- Chitina: No facilities whatsoever. There is a building which serves as a ticket office, but it wasn’t open when we flew to/from there. We just waited in our car until we saw our plane land. No security check-in.
- McCarthy: Outhouse/restrooms, and positively, they weren’t the worst I’ve ever seen. No building in which to wait. No security check-in.
- Homer: While we did not depart from the actual airport (but instead, a building on the opposite side of the runway), we did stop in to see it. There are tons of pamphlets/brochures on Homer, and counters for Era and Grant and car rentals. No bar, restaurant, or shop. No visible security to enter the building, so you must go through right before boarding.
Girdwood: Alyeska Resort (August 2008)
My favorite hotel of my 10-night stay in
Alaska! Definitely the most high-end property where we stayed, with
valet parking, room service, on-site spa, lovely indoor pool, outdoor
gardens, several dining options (although we ate elsewhere), several
shops, game room, fish pond, aerial tram access to the top of the
mountain. I wish that we had spent more than one night here--the
mattress/bedding was fantastic and the room layout was clever. We were
upgraded to a renovated room/floor, and the bedroom/sitting area could
be closed off with louvered doors from the sink/bathroom area. (My
husband didn't even hear me wake up and get ready as a result.) Rooms
had everything imaginable (hairdryer, luxurious toiletries, safe,
minibar, game unit, heated towel rack, robes/slippers, doorbell, ice
service) for a comfortable stay. Several restaurants are nearby, within a
very short drive (but probably not a quick walk): Jack Sprat (highly
recommended) and the well-known Doubly Musky (but we weren't feeling
Cajun/Creole that night). Would absolutely stay here again--this hotel
would be at home in any metropolitan US city.
Girdwood: Jack Sprat (August 2008)
Our best meal in Alaska.
Some natural/vegetarian options along with more standard fare. Nice
presentation for the food, and unique ingredients used. The restaurant
is in an A-frame building, which was unique. Service was good. Would
probably make a reservation; it was crowded on the night we were there.
Anchorage: Orso (August 2008)
We ate
lunch here while passing through Anchorage. The atmosphere was chic and
the restaurant seemed trendy; it would have been at home in New York or
Philadelphia. Prices were reasonable (as compared to those cities just
mentioned) and there was a unique twist to all the dishes (different
ingredients, etc.). Would definitely recommend and eat here again.
Anchorage: Flying Machine/Fancy Moose at Millennium Alaskan Hotel (August 2008)
It was great to sit on the deck adjacent to the seaplane landing lake and enjoy some great weather and fresh air before heading to the airport for our evening flight. Food was nothing to rave about, but proximity to the airport and the outdoor seating area were appreciated.
Anchorage: Eagle River Microtel (August 2008)
This was a fine hotel for one night, located about 20 minutes
from the Anchorage Airport and the downtown area. Since we were on our
way to Talkeetna the next day (by way of Matanuska Glacier), it made
sense for us. The hotel was as expected, maybe a bit worn around the
edges (for example, it was difficult to close our bathroom door without
performing some gymnastics). Plenty of towels, soap, and shampoo
provided. We had booked a standard (queen) room, but were upgraded to a
suite (but I use that term loosely). We arrived later in the evening
(after 10:00 pm, and the hotel was sold out). The room had a window
seat, ceiling fan (but no air-conditioning), and the window opened.
Bedding was fine, with the newer bedscarf-over-duvet setup rather than
an old-fashioned bedspread. We also had a pull-out sofa bed and coffee
table, along with a wet bar and a small refrigerator. The sink area was
within the bathroom, making it challenging for more than one person to
get ready at a time. Continental breakfast was provided, including hot
and cold beverages, bagels and other breads/muffins, and oatmeal. I
didn't see any fruit or really healthy options, though. Check-in and
check-out were easy. Parking was no problem. The hotel has a small
sundries/snack shop right in the lobby. The location is good, right in
"downtown" Eagle River, near a few restaurants (Haute Quarter Grill,
Jalapenos) and a large grocery store (I think it's called Carrs).
There's a liquor store nearby, as well as a movie theater, and several
strip malls. I would stay here again during transit to/from the airport.
Rates were reasonable when booked ahead--about $98 for the AAA rate on
the standard room.
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