New York City: Pierre Au Tunnel (March 2005)

Pierre Au Tunnel is located in Midtown Manhattan and serves bistro and French cuisine. Pierre Au Tunnel accepts advance reservations and serves alcohol.  Owned by Jacqueline and Jean-Claude Lincy, 41-year-old Pierre au Tunnel has a warm, inviting aura. You pass through the spacious bar with several tables along one wall en route to the dining room, which has brick walls on one side, stucco on another, timbered beams overhead, red banquettes and a fireplace adorned with a giant stag's head. The small French women waitresses who seem to have been here since the Eisenhower Administration appear timeless. They go about their ministrations with alacrity, although the pace can be slow sometimes at dinner. This restaurant has an attractive, low-key setting with banquettes and bar in the  smaller front room and well-spaced tables in the back A restaurant as old as Pierre au Tunnel presumably has had time to stock a varied wine cellar. Pierre au Tunnel, while occasionally inconsistent in its food, is unfailingly consistent in its nostalgic charms. The ships may no longer come to the West Side, but restaurants like this still fly the flag.

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