Summary: In February of 2008, my husband and I traveled to three cities in India (Delhi, Agra, Varanasi) and two in Nepal (Kathmandu and Pokhara). India was the most challenging country we’ve ever traveled, but we learned a lot and had some great experiences. (Nepal was much easier.) In hindsight, our itinerary was too ambitious, not allowing for things to go wrong, which they did!
February 20: Newark, New Jersey to Delhi on Continental
February 21: Arriving in Delhi and Spending the Night
Our trip began on the wrong foot. Our hotel was supposed to pick us up at the airport, but they never showed. We waited for over an hour after clearing customs and claiming our bags. We proceeded to take our own taxi, but the driver had a lot of difficulty locating the hotel. In our naivete, something we didn’t truly realize until this trip was how one can speak a language but not be able to read it. The drivers understood us and could communicate in English, but when we tried to show them the written address, they didn’t understand. (Think of it this way--you can repeat a Hindi word that you’ve heard, but do you know the characters that compose it? Could you pronounce the Hindi symbols?) International arrivals at the Delhi airport is an unforgettable experience--lots of drivers, taxis, etc. clamoring for your business the minute you step out of baggage claim. It’s a bit intimidating!
Link to My Review of the Hotel Palace Heights (New Delhi)
February 22: Delhi to Agra via Train; Visiting Fatehpur Sikhri
New Delhi Railway Station: A total zoo--inside and out! But what a great experience! If you purchase e-tickets online, you can go straight to your platform. Double-check your name (for seat assignments) on the papers plastered to the wall near the platform. We weren't prepared for this station, and got the runaround from supposedly official employees who told us we needed stamps on our tickets and ran us up/downstairs and across the parking lot like maniacs (unnecessarily). I'm not sure what the scam was--but it was worth the $5 we paid to have a porter carry our luggage on his head, wait on the platform with us, and stow our luggage overhead on the train (get there early, or they run out of space). Food, drinks, and newspapers served on the 2-hour ride between New Delhi and Agra. Fairly comfortable ride in air-conditioned chair class. Did not use the restrooms on the train, which was probably wise. No smoking. Not a bad way to travel a short distance, and quite inexpensive ($15 for 2 one-way tickets).
Activities: The travel desk at the ITC Mughal, International Leisure Travel, arranged two half-day tours for us, and also met us on arrival at the Agra Cantt train station and dropped us off at the Agra airport (very small, recently re-opened--I think-with just Kingfisher and Indian Air flying from there). The two tours and transfers totaled about $100 US, which I thought was a great bargain. One day, we traveled to Fatehpur Sikri (tour given by an English-speaking guide), and the other day we visited the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort (again, with an English-speaking guide). The hawkers in Fatehpur Sikri were the worst I've ever seen, making it difficult to walk without being forced to look at postcards and snow globes. Agra was slightly better; unfortunately the guides did not help the situation much. (On other trips, having a private guide has seemed to discourage this type of nuisance.)
Link to My Review of the ITC Mughal (Agra)
February 23: Agra to Delhi; Visiting the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort
Activity: Taj Mahal and Agra Fort (see review above)
Agra Airport Info: Small airport, with one shop, post office. There were spots for a bank and a restaurant, but neither was open when we were there. It seems that only Indian Air and Kingfisher fly to/from here. It's on a military base. Locals we spoke to even seemed surprised that it was open to commercial traffic (I think it may have been closed for awhile). You can't smoke inside, but it would be easy to pop back outside (not as much initial security here as at other airports, nor the crowds).
Link to My Review of The Manor (New Delhi)
February 24: Delhi to Varanasi; Visiting Sarnath and Seeing the Ganges
Activity: Sarnath and the Ganges: It was difficult to communicate via e-mail with the Gateway Hotel Ganges (at that time a Taj Hotel property); therefore, it was difficult to set up day tours through their travel desk. I had thought that I arranged an airport transfer, but no one met us on arrival.We arranged a quick-and-cheap pre-paid taxi, and a tour guide hopped into our car for the ride into town. He was able to arrange what we wanted: two half-day tours, one to Sarnath with an evening boat trip on the Ganges, and one morning boat trip on the Ganges. Definitely see the river at the two separate times--very different experiences. Don't shy away from seeing the cremations--it's more moving and life-changing than gruesome.
Link to My Review of the Gateway Hotel Ganges (Varanasi), previously called the Taj Ganges View
February 25: Varanasi to Delhi to Kathmandu (that was our plan, not what actually happened)
Varanasi Airport Info: Small airport, with a few small shops, post office, table-service restaurant (outside security). Inside security, there is nothing but seating and restrooms, although men carry around snacks and drinks for purchase. No smoking inside, but available in the table-service restaurant. You can only fly directly from Varanasi to Kathmandu on certain days of the week, which didn’t work for us, so we attempted to fly from Varanasi to Delhi and then Delhi to Kathmandu. Our flight from Varanasi to Delhi left late, so we missed our connection in Delhi. Again showing our naivete, we didn’t realize that there are two parts to the airport in Delhi, and international and a domestic part, only they are not located nearby and you must negotiate the crazy Delhi traffic to travel from one part to the other. In our original plan, we had several hours between flights, but with the late arrival of our incoming, the traffic getting to the other terminal, and the impossibly long lines for international security, we missed our connecting flight by minutes. So it looked like we would be spending the night in Delhi, only we quickly learned that every hotel in Delhi was fully booked for that evening, even $700 per night 5 star hotels like the Imperial, Shangri-La, Taj Mahal, Oberoi were fully booked. We weren’t able to cancel our hotel in Kathmandu, so we actually paid for nights in two separate hotels. Fortunately, we were able to reschedule our next morning’s activity, flightseeing for Mount Everest.
Link to My Review of the Best Western Resort Country Club (Gurgaon)
February 26: Delhi to Kathmandu (Finally!)
Activity: We missed sightseeing flight, so we postponed until tomorrow. We took a tour of Kathmandu and the Durbar Square area.
Link to My Review of the Yak and Yeti (Kathmandu)
Link to My Review of The Chimney Restaurant (at the Yak and Yeti)
February 27: Kathmandu to Pokhara; Trying to See Mount Everest (and failing!)
Activity: Flightseeing of Mount Everest was not to be. We missed our flight the day before, and this was our last chance to see it. All flights this morning were delayed by 4+ hours, so if we stayed to see Mount Everest, we would miss our flight to Pokhara.
Link to My Review of the Tiger Mountain Lodge (Pokhara)
February 28: Parahawking with Scott Mason
This is one of the most unusual things we've ever done! The paragliding itself would have been amazing, but to have Kevin and Brad respond on command to a whistle, and have them feed off our hands in mid-flight, was really indescribable! We feel like we've experience the beginning of something really great for Scott and his team--I can only hope that he achieves the success that he deserves! We checked in with Scott's company on the main street in Lakeside, Pokhara, getting a quick chance to meet the birds. We then traveled by car to the take-off point up in the mountains (Sarangkot, I think). Each passenger was attached to the front of a pilot, who worked the equipment. After a quick briefing, we took the plunge, and were soon soaring through the sky. Each time the pilot blows his whistle, one of the birds comes to feed from your hand; Kevin rests there for what seems like minutes while he eats, but Brad swoops in, plucks his treat, and is off before you know it. I even have a photo of Kevin resting on my hand in mid-air. Amazing!! The cost is currently 85 Euros for about a 30-minute flight, which is well worth the price for such a unique activity. You land in Maya Devi, which is where Scott lives and cares for the birds (several others are viewable in the aviary). We traveled to Pokhara exclusively for this activity, and we were completely satisfied! My only comment is that I would probably take two flights next time: one without the birds, then one with the birds.
March 1: Pokhara to Kathmandu
Pokhara Airport Info: Small airport, with table-service restaurant (outside security) and combination snack/souvenir shop inside security. No smoking inside.
Link to My Review of the Hyatt Regency (Kathmandu)
March 2: Kathmandu to Delhi then Home: A Day of Relaxation Before Our Flight
Kathmandu Airport Info: The international airport is decent, with several shops, including two duty-free. There is no sit-down restaurant inside security (or outside that I could see), but there is a counter serving sandwiches, etc. There is smoking inside--pretty much anywhere. There is a computer/internet café with several laptops, and some TVs to pass the time. The domestic airport is next door, but in a separate building (walkable). It also allowed smoking inside, and had three small shops, as well as TVs.
Link to My Review of the Trident (Gurgaon)
