We
stayed for three nights from February 12 to 15, 2012 in a Superior Room
at the Hotel das Cataratas (owned by Orient-Express) directly through
the Orient-Express website. Although this property is part of American
Express’s Fine Hotels & Resorts program (through who we booked
our stay at the Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro, the perks offered
as part of the program did not outweigh the lower price that we attained
by pre-paying/booking 21 days in advance. We did not need the early
check-in or late check-out, and breakfast was already included with all
room rates at this hotel. (We think the room rate includes breakfast
because there is not anywhere else to eat other than the hotel.) The
AmEx perk was a one-way airport-hotel transfer, and we figured that the
transfer would only apply to the Brazilian airport (not really worth the
extra money that we paid in the room rate over the pre-paid rate) but
not to the Argentinean airport (which would have been a deal); however,
we never actually inquired about it. In retrospect, we should have
booked through AmEx; even though the rate was higher, we might have had a
chance for a room upgrade, because we ended up receiving exactly the
room category that we booked - perfectly acceptable but not exceptional
like our room in Rio. This hotel is inside the Brazilian national park
adjacent to the falls. It was still necessary to purchase a ticket to
the national park in order to gain entrance to the hotel; however, the
pass was good for 3 days for a cost of R$40 per person (US$22). The
hotel is located a distance from the front gate of the park - several
miles at least - but there is a park shuttle that runs during the park’s
operating hours (about 9:00 to 17:00), so you can ride on that bus if
you want to reach the visitors center, and from there you can catch a
local bus to Foz do Iguacu. The town of Foz do Iguacu is located 18
miles from the hotel, which takes about 40 minutes by hotel car, and
reportedly costs R$200 round trip (US$100). (The town on the Argentinean
side is called Puerto Iguazu.) Because the hotel is located inside the
national park, you can hike around whenever you like, even outside of
normal operating hours. Take a hike before 9:30 or after 17:00, when the
park opens to the public and the large tour groups and buses overtake
the serenity.
We booked and received a
Superior Room, and pleasantly, our request for a balcony was honored.
Similarly to the Rio de Janeiro hotel that we had recently left, the
Copacabana Palace, this hotel offered no furniture on the terrace, which
was unfortunate. It was a nice-sized balcony with plenty of room for a
small table and two chairs, and yet it was completely empty. We pulled
chairs from the room onto the balcony when we wanted to sit out there.
Our room was located in the forest wing; we remember reading reviews
prior to our trip about guests complaining because this wing was located
so far from the lobby, but we did not feel that way at all. The walk
was pleasant, partially indoors and partially beneath a covered walkway
(adjacent to the shops). You are walking a lot in the park anyway, so
what’s a little more exercise on the way to the bar or restaurants? Our
room was a nice size, with a king-size bed, desk and chair, and table
and three chairs. Floors were hardwood, and the ceilings were high,
giving the room a more spacious feeling. The bathroom, however, was
small and cramped, but certainly not the smallest bathroom we’ve ever
seen (that honor goes to the Parker House Hilton in Chicago), although
the bathroom fortunately featured dual sinks next to the combination
tub/shower unit where we could both get ready simultaneously. Granado
toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, lotion, soap) were provided. The color
of the soap was a little off-putting, a dark green glycerin. (Granado
was once the official pharmacy of the Portuguese royal family.) Robes
are provided, and each guest receives a complimentary pair of Havaianas
(sort of an aqua color) that you can take home with you. If the correct
size is not in your room, either ask housekeeping or reception to change
them for you. Evening turndown occurs a little too early, in our
opinion, between 18:00 and 20:00, a time when most guests are showering
and dressing for dinner. Surprisingly, no bottled water is provided at
evening turndown, because they make a big deal of the turndown service,
placing chocolates and a weather forecast on the bed, and also arranging
starched mats adjacent to each bedside atop which they place a pair of
Havaianas flip-flops.
The hotel has an ATM
machine on-site and four small shops: a jewelry kiosk in the lobby, and
another larger jewelry store and two souvenir shops between the main
wing and the forest wing. The fitness center located in the forest wing
is very small - only about five pieces of equipment (one treadmill, one
elliptical trainer, one bike, and so on), but you’ll be getting your
exercise outdoors anyway. The hotel offers cold ice water flavored with
citrus in the lobby near the front desk at all times.
We spent
about US$550 on food and beverages over our 3-night stay at the Hotel
das Cataratas. The guests really are a captive audience because there is
nowhere else to eat or drink. We would have spent even more, except
that on our day of arrival, we walked to the park snack bar to buy
several bottles of water, thinking that they would be less expensive
there than in the hotel mini-bar; they were less expensive, although not
appreciably so. And we also bought a less-expensive 12-pack of water
and a 12-pack of beer one day when we visited the Argentinean side of
the falls. Drinking from the mini-bar or ordering room service at the
Cataratas was the same price as eating in the restaurants or drinking in
the bars. The snack bars inside the national park do not serve beer in
cans or bottles, however, so you are limited to making non-alcoholic
purchases only. The formal restaurant Porto das Canoas at the far
interior of the park, as well as the snack bar adjacent to it, serve
both draught beer, and although we saw bottled beer at the formal
restaurant Porto das Canoas, we do not know if they would permit you to
“carry out”.
The hotel features
several dining options. The more formal Restaurante Itaipu is open for
dinner only from 19:30 to 23:00, but is closed Sunday and Monday.
Unfortunately, those were two of the three nights that we stayed at the
Cataratas. We had e-mailed the hotel about operating hours of Itaipu
before we arrived so that we could make reservations, but they
discouraged us from doing that, stating that we needed to look at the
menu first before reserving. No one mentioned that the restaurant was
not open daily. Restaurante Itapiu offers indoor and outdoor seating. We
did not eat at this formal restaurant despite thinking prior to our
trip that we would be dining there every night. We enjoy good food,
unique ingredients, and interesting presentations, and generally avoid
buffets, so this restaurant seemed to be the place for us. But with the
restaurant closed two of the three nights we stayed, even after perusing
the menu, we decided to forgo it on the third night as well. Other
reviewers have said that the prices were high, but we did not find the
prices quoted to be much more than the buffet dinner in the Ipe Grill;
the difference was that you would be served a few courses rather than
all-that-you-cared-to-eat.
The Ipe Grill serves a buffet
breakfast from 6:30 to 10:00 (included in every room rate), and a buffet
dinner from 19:30 to 23:00. The Ipe Grill also serves a la carte
options for dinner in addition to the buffet, at least on Sunday and
Monday nights when the Itaipu Restaurant is closed. Although we ate
dinner at the Ipe Grill intending to order from the a la carte menu, the
menu options were a smaller sampling of what was offered in the Itaipu
Restaurant and at the same cost, yet in less formal surroundings. The
dinner buffet was extensive and nicely presented, but the cost was a bit
high at R$120 per person (US$65), not including drinks (the price did
not even include a glass of water). The Ipe Grill has both indoor and
outdoor seating, and reservations are essential if you want to dine
outdoors by the pool, which is very lovely under the starry sky. (We
made the mistake of not reserving a table for dinner in advance,
thinking that because we were visiting in the height of the summer that
it would be too hot and/or buggy to eat outside, which was not the case.
We also had no idea what time we would be ready to eat dinner, and had
we booked from home, we never would have expected to eat dinner as late
as we did on this trip. We had no problem eating outdoors at
breakfast-time, however.)
Bar Taroba serves drinks
and snacks from 17:00 to 23:30 daily. It supposedly features live music
from 19:00 to 23:00, although we saw live music only on one night of our
stay. Bar Taroba offers indoor and outdoor seating. Do not worry about
the section on the menu that states that sandwiches are available only
until 18:00; it is possible to order from that section of the menu
anytime that the bar is open. In Bar Taroba, we would not recommend the
tuna sandwiches; the tuna salad really was not good, nor was the
dark-brown bread on which it was served. It came with a “rocket salad”,
which was only one piece of romaine lettuce with a bit of dressing. We
also do not recommend the dumplings and empanadas, both of which were
fried beyond recognition and a few were disappointingly empty of
ingredients/fillings. The club sandwich and steak sandwich are better
choices. Sandwiches cost about US$25, which is a bit steep, but there is
no competition. Cans of beer and soda ran about US$7 each, whether from
the mini-bar or in one of the restaurants or the bar.
The pool
operates officially from 8:00 to 20:00 (but you can use it anytime if
you are quiet), and attendants provide towels and fresh fruit to the
guests (supposedly also cold water and cold towels, but we did not
experience those amenities); one review we read said that these items
were offered every 30 minutes or so, but we sat by the pool for about 4
hours one afternoon and they only came around once with fruit, and never
with water or cold towels, so it may depend on the day, how busy it is,
the weather and/or temperature. You can order drinks and food directly
to your pool lounge chair, or there is a small bar and a few tables set
up if you would prefer a more traditional place to eat. The pool is
large and well-maintained, and there are plenty of lounge chairs
available. Actually, the number of lounge chairs is not so many,
however, it never seemed that anyone was unable to be seated. Guests are
staying at the property to be close to the scenery, not necessarily to
swim in the pool, so the number of guests relaxing at any one time is
not overwhelming. The pool is large and nicely shaped, but the depth is a
bit odd. The bottom of the pool was designed in three varying depths,
but only the highest level is usable; the lower two levels are too deep
for anyone to stand (and we are tall people!).
The spa is open from 2:00
to 22:00 and provides a relaxing place for a massage or other
treatment. We did not have any services done at the hotel spa, but we
asked for a tour, and the steam rooms (they called them steam “tables”,
which made me think of a food buffet!) and relaxation areas were clean
and attractive. Prices for a 60-minute massage seemed reasonable for a
resort at R$200 (US$110.)
Iguassu Experiences is located off the
main lobby of the hotel, and is open primarily during daytime hours. You
can book several excursions with them, including the Macuco safari,
bird park, Itaipu hydroelectric plant, rafting, canopy tour/zip-line,
rappeling, trips to the Argentinean National Park, abseiling, rafting,
and rock/tree climbing. Several walking tours are also offered; if you
are visiting the hotel during the full moon, there is an evening walking
tour to see the lunar rainbow.