We
stayed for four nights from February 8 to 12, 2012 at the Copacabana
Palace (an Orient-Express Hotel), located on Avenida Atlantica, across
the street from Copacabana Beach (there are no hotels directly ON the
beach in Rio). We booked a Superior City View Room through the American
Express Platinum Fine Hotels & Resorts Program. The rate
included an upgrade upon availability, a 12:00 early check-in, a 4:00 pm
late check-out, buffet breakfast daily for 2 people, and a US$100 spa
credit. (We would have preferred a US$100 food and beverage credit, but
that was not offered.) We debated between the Copacabana Palace, the JW
Marriott, and the Sofitel, which were all similarly priced, but decided
on the Copacabana Palace because it is one of the most iconic hotels in
South America. The hotel is modeled on the Negresco in Nice and the
Carlton in Cannes, so it’s a big, classic property. The hotel has two
parts - the original main palace building and an annex called the tower
wing. Our room was located in the annex. We were upgraded to an Avenue
City View Corner Suite (room 954), which had a large living room with
two balconies, a nice-size bedroom, a large bathroom, and a large foyer.
One of the balconies overlooked Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana,
and the other balcony overlooked the fitness center/spa with a slight
view of the Atlantic Ocean (if we stood on our tip-toes and leaned over a
bit). When we checked in, the desk agent explained the various rooms
from which we could choose, so we knew that we were sacrificing a
pool/ocean view for a larger suite, a decision that we would repeat.
Neither balcony was outfitted with any patio furniture, which was a real
shame! Anytime we went out on the balcony, we carried out chairs from
the living room. It seems odd to have such nice outdoor spaces and then
not encourage guests to use them. It would probably promote consumption
from the mini-bar as well, because guests would want to enjoy a cold
refreshment while they sat on the terrace. The living room had a sofa
and two chairs, along with a coffee table and two end tables. It also
had a desk and chair and two other small chairs (which we used on the
balconies). Wi-Fi service was included with the room rate. Coffee
service was provided (it looked like a single-cup Keurig-type machine),
although we do not remember it being complimentary (we did not use it).
Evening turndown occurred late (between 21:00 and 23:00), and as part of
the turndown, a bottle of water and a yummy chocolate was provided on
each bedside table, and a starched bedside mat was laid on each side of
the bed, with a pair of Havaianas flip-flops atop. The air-conditioning
worked tremendously well, which is always impressive in an international
hotel of a certain age, and especially in such a warm climate. The
bathroom featured dual sinks, which helps when two people need to share,
and a bathtub separate from the shower. The toiletries were made by
Granado in possibly the Castanha do Brasil scent, according to what we
see on their website. Shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, and body wash
were provided, as were some cotton swabs and cotton balls, but that was
the extent of the toiletries. (Granado was once the official pharmacy of
the Portuguese royal family.) We had some issues with our toilet - one
of the parts inside the tank responsible for the flushing mechanism
broke several times, and each time we called maintenance, someone would
arrive with a plunger, thinking that the toilet was clogged. It was
difficult communicating the real issue to the staff - we are not sure if
it was a language barrier or they did not have the correct parts to
replace the broken ones. Umbrellas, robes, and slippers (actually black
Havaianas flip-flops, which you can take with you when you leave; just
ask the housekeeper or reception desk for a specific size if what they
provided does not fit) are provided, as is a nice-size electronic safe.
The night before our departure, we were unable to open the safe, and it
was discovered that the batteries needed to be replaced. But this repair
was handled with the utmost professionalism, with two persons - one
person of whom seemed managerial - coming to address the issue. No iron
or ironing board is available, but of course, the hotel offers pressing
services for a fee. The closet area in the bedroom was huge, sort of a
walk-in type with plenty of storage. We really enjoyed the spaciousness
and comfort of our room!
The location of the hotel is great, with
Copacabana Beach across busy Avenida Atlantica, and Sugar Loaf mountain
less than a 10-minute drive away. A cross-walk exists near the corner
of the hotel, and the traffic lights have those buttons that pedestrians
can push to make the light change more frequently. Avenida Atlantica
sometimes has two-way traffic, and at other times, the traffic runs only
one way, but the direction changes depending on the time of day. (It
made us glad that we did not rent a car and drive ourselves!) It does
not appear that there’s any parking at the hotel; some on-street parking
exists, but you could not leave a car there for any significant amount
of time, and certainly not overnight. A doorman is stationed at the
hotel entrance to hail taxi cabs for the guests, although we did not use
that service.
To reach the fitness center and spa, which are
part of the tower annex, you must walk through the Cipriani Bar and
Restaurant. If you try to access the fitness center or the spa in the
late afternoon or early evening, you feel a bit conspicuous in your
workout gear or hotel robe as you pass elegantly attired diners. Even
returning to your room after a late afternoon at the beach or pool makes
one feel a bit out of place as you walk through Cipriani. Although we
do not normally partake of spa services while on vacation (our feeling
is that we’re already relaxed, so why not save the pampering for a
boring day at home?), I booked a 30-minute jet lag massage to spend our
US$100 spa credit from American Express. The cost for the service ended
up being about US$85, but I remitted the entire check in addition to
leaving a separate tip for the therapist. The spa area is attractive,
with a lovely relaxation room on both the main level and the upper
level. You can use the area on the main level at any time, whereas it
seems that the room on the upper level is reserved for patrons after
their services. Outside of the relaxation room on the main floor is the
entrance to the men’s and women’s saunas, as well as a small table
outfitted with cold water (with real glasses and ice) and mixed nuts.
The fitness center is large and well equipped, including towels and
bottled water. Changing rooms include lockers, showers, and so on. A
beauty salon is also on site at the hotel.
The pool is grand, but
not as large as we had expected from other reviews. (Perhaps it IS huge
in comparison to the pools of other hotels, most of which are on
rooftops). The pool is on the ground level, the same level as the
restaurants, the beach, and the lobby. Many lounge chairs surround the
pool, and the pool staff does a good job of managing the chairs when
they turn over. You can order food and drinks to your loungers, and they
set up a little pool bar during the day that serves buckets of Veuve
Clicquot champagne and other high-end drinks. I believe the formal pool
hours are 8:00 to 20:00, but it seemed that you could swim at any time
if you were discrete.
For anyone with mobility issues, this hotel
features a number of steps The smallish lobby area is located on the
ground level, but it is necessary to climb at least 10 stairs to reach
another small lobby area and the elevator bank for the main building of
the hotel. To reach the pool, gift shop, and restaurants, you must then
walk down two sets of stairs, with each set being 3 or so steps. If your
room is in the tower annex, it requires a step up from the pool area
and opening a very heavy door to enter the lobby area of Cipriani, then
up another 3 or 4 stairs up to access the tower annex elevator bank.
It’s not a big deal for most travelers, but if anyone has physical
limitations, it would present a problem. We do not think that someone in
a wheelchair could even stay in this hotel - one would need to be able
to transfer oneself up and down those stairs. If you think you might
tote your own bag to your room (even one of those small roll-aboard
suitcases), think again! It’s hard to manage more than a handbag or
small carry-on bag with all those steps.
The hotel offers beach
service, where they provide you with complimentary chairs, umbrellas,
towels, cold sealed containers of water, and fresh fruit. The chairs
were arranged closer to the sidewalk promenade than to the water,
separating hotel guests from the masses of local people. If you wanted
to take your Copacabana Palace lounge chair down by the water, the
attendants would probably move it for you. Another option is to rent a
chair and sit by the water. Many vendors set up on the sand who rent
chairs and umbrellas and that also sell drinks and food. It seems that
each stand also sets up a portable shower for use by its guests. (The
hotel does not have its own shower, which would have been a nice perk.)
More formal food and drink vendors are positioned along the paved
promenade that runs along Avenida Atlantica from one end to the other.
Many stands seem to focus on fresh fruit drinks, particularly drinks
including fresh coconut. All stands have some type of seating, whether
tables and chairs or something more hip and modern like beanbags. Take
your pick and enjoy the view! In the late afternoon and early evening,
food carts set up on the corner near the Copacabana Palace, selling
churros, empanadas, and other types of local food.
The hotel has
two restaurants, the formal Cipriani serving lunch and dinner, and the
more casual Pergula Restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Cipriani has a lovely bar area (and both bar and restaurant patrons are
treated to live music played on the grand piano), and a nightclub called
the Copa Bar is set up on weekend evenings with its entrance near the
beautiful pool. We at in the Pergula Restaurant every day for breakfast
(with both indoor and outdoor spaces), and the offerings were
well-tended and fairly complete. (We did not notice any pancakes or
French toast, though.) The variety of fruit displayed is astounding,
many with names that were completely unfamiliar to us. The variety of
pastries and breads was also impressive. A chef was available to prepare
eggs and omelets on request. We were provided with a breakfast bill
each day, even though it was included in our room rate, and we think we
were charged about US$50 per person per day - a bit pricey in our
opinion, because it was not the nicest or most extensive breakfast
buffet that we’ve ever seen (that honor goes to the Peninsula Bangkok).
We did not dine at Cipriani, partially because we felt that we did not
pack fancy enough clothing. Another reason is that we live near New York
City, where there are several branches of Cipriani, so we feel that we
can always try one of those properties at a later time. We ate dinner in
the Pergula Restaurant on our first night of arrival, hoping for
something light, quick, and inexpensive, but we found that our meal was
none of those (although it was atmospheric dining pool-side in the
moonlight)! I was not at all hungry, so I ordered nothing but a
non-alcoholic drink, and my spouse’s dish of penne Bolognese cost over
US$50 (for a single-serving size, not a large bowl like you would get in
the US from which you would have some leftovers to take home)! No
less-expensive options were available; appetizers/starters seemed to be
priced just as highly as the pasta, and certain tourist staples like the
ubiquitous club sandwich were not offered. Nearby less-costly
restaurant options included La Fiducia, Manuel and Joaquim, Maxim’s, and
Churrascaria Palace.
The main entrance to the hotel (which opens
onto the registration lobby) is the ONLY entrance and exit from the
hotel during most of the day. A sealed entrance/exit exists in the
annex; however, it is not used any more, probably for security reasons
(the door opens onto the street running parallel to Avenida Atlantica,
which is called Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana). We also saw the
door that leads into the Pergula Restaurant opened in the evening and
manned by a doorman ushering in patrons between velvet ropes, but
instead of the door admitting people to the restaurant, it provided easy
access to the Copa Bar that opens off the pool area on Thursday through
Sunday nights. Hotel guests have no cover charge on Thursday or Friday,
but do have to pay on Saturday and Sunday nights. (We cannot comment on
the amount of the cover charge because we are past the age of drinking
and dancing the night away!)
This hotel does not have an ATM
machine; however, they can convert foreign money to local currency at
the front desk or concierge desk. Front-of-house staff are very
professional, attired in regulation business suits, and are
knowledgeable about local restaurants and attractions.
In an
effort to save some cash, we visited a nearby store every afternoon that
sold beer (singles and by the case) as well as cases of water. We
bought a case of water and a half-case of beer each day for about R$30
(US$16), which was the price of one fancy drink at the hotel! There’s
sort of a “dollar store” called Lojas Americanas on Avenida Nossa
Senhora de Copacabana where you can buy snacks, non-alcoholic drinks,
suntan lotion, and other sundry items.
We made the right choice
for ourselves in staying at the Copacabana Palace - it was the favorite
hotel of our vacation, and we would jump at the chance to stay there
again - especially in one of the suites!