Front Royal: Inn at Little Washington (May 2011)

My spouse and I ate dinner at the Inn at Little Washington over the Memorial Day weekend in late May 2011. We had a good meal here, but it wasn't fantastic and certainly didn't “wow” us. (For background, meals that have “wowed” us in the past have been The French Laundry, Per Se, Le Bernardin, wd-50, and Momofuku Ko.) We were seated in the main dining room, which was attractive except for the red, fringed, bordello-like lights hanging above each table. We could see into a sunroom-type dining space, and we also observed a bar area near the restrooms (however, when we peeked into the bar area, we were made to feel like we were intruding, so I'm not sure whether it was for all dinner guests or just for the hotel guests). To our dismay and surprise, some diners were attired in shorts, sneakers, and polo shirts! Although I think requiring a jacket and tie is a bit much, the dress code is far too relaxed as it currently stands. We did not order the gastronaut’s menu, instead choosing the four-course prix-fixe menu. From what I saw online prior to my visit, it seemed to me that both menus were the same price - $165 on a Sunday evening, but when we were handed our menus, the prix-fixe was $185 and the gastronaut's menu was $225 (perhaps they raised the prices on the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend?). Our biggest regret is that we didn't splurge on the more extensive eight-course menu - perhaps there would have been more opportunity for the restaurant to impress us. We received an amuse-bouche of four serving spoons (Asian-looking), each with a different concoction atop. These looked interesting, however, we had to "fight" over the ones that we wanted - both my spouse and I wanted the spoon topped with pork belly, and we each wanted the one topped with a miniature deviled egg. (Clearly, we weren't that interested in the other two, because I can't recall what they were.) It's difficult to discuss your food experience when the other person wants what you have! Our first courses were tasty: my spouse had oysters and I had the beet fantasia (probably the most impressive-looking dish of the evening). Our second courses were fine although not at all memorable; I can’t even recall what they were (the hallmark of a literally and figuratively forgettable course, in my opinion, but I think my spouse had foie gras and I had a scallop). The blunder of the evening came when our entrees were served; my spouse's lamb loin was placed in front of me, and my veal loin was placed in front of him. We began eating, and I wondered what was in the small bowl on my plate containing a light-colored substance flecked with herbs. Sampling it, I tasted mint and jelly, which are puzzling accompaniments for veal, but not for lamb! We were absolutely astounded that the wrong plates were delivered - made worse by the fact that nothing was announced as it was delivered - we’ve grown accustomed to the wait person saying, "Here is the veal for the lady and the lamb for the gentleman", usually accompanied by an extensive description of the preparations and ingredients composing the dish. (To be fair, we usually order a blind tasting menu, so it is absolutely necessary to explain what is being served, and describing the dishes is surely a bit easier when both parties are enjoying the same menu.) To make up for such a huge error, they offered us a cheese course after we had finished our desserts. (For dessert, my spouse chose an after-dinner drink and I chose the “seven deadly sins”, so the cheese was a good addition. We haven’t ever been offered a cordial or brandy in place of dessert, so that was something my spouse [not a real dessert-lover] appreciated about this restaurant.) The young gentleman who served our cheeses had real knowledge of what he was serving, as well as an entertaining personality, and Faira the cow is an amusing diversion. To sum up our experience, if you find yourself in Washington, Virginia, this is certainly a good restaurant choice, but I wouldn't go at all out of my way to eat there (and trust me, no matter where you are, it is out of the way for this sleepy little location!).

Hudson River Valley: Blue Hill at Stone Barn (May 2010)

Although I haven't eaten at the location in Manhattan, I did eat at the one in Pocantico Hills (Hudson River Valley near Tarrytown) last weekend. I'm not sure how similar or different they are--the one outside the city is on a farm, so you have the advantage of touring the pastures, gardens, and greenhouses to really see where your food is coming from, but I would imagine the menu selections and format are similar. Both my spouse and I agreed that it was the most unique meal we've ever had, although not the best meal we've ever had (those accolades would go to either Per Se or The French Laundry). Blue Hill was half the price, though, so it's hard to be disappointed, and if I had to say anything negative, it would be that they are serving a larger number of people per day/night, so the service is just a tad lacking, or inconsistent perhaps (sometimes we had several servers at our table, and at other times they were nonexistent). You have your choice of a 5-course tasting menu or an 8-course menu, so plan on a lengthy dinner. My other somewhat negative comment is that the servers didn't describe each dish adequately--they mentioned the main ingredient, but not the minor components, and I wanted to know everything since the tastings were completely blind.

In spring of 2004, Blue Hill at Stone Barns opened at Stone Barns. The restaurant sources many ingredients from Stone Barns fields and pastures. Its executive chef and co-owner is Dan Barber, who also owns Blue Hill in New York City. Stone Barns' property was once part of Pocantico, the Rockefeller estate. The stone barns themselves were commissioned by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. to be a dairy farm. The complex fell into disuse during the 1950s and was mainly used for storage. In the 1970s, agricultural activity resumed when David Rockefeller's wife Peggy began a successful cattle breeding operation. Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture was created by David Rockefeller, his daughter Peggy Dulany, and their associate James Ford as a memorial for Peggy Rockefeller, who died in 1996. Stone Barns opened to the public in May 2004. The farm at Stone Barns Center is a four-season operation with approximately 6 acres used for vegetable production. It uses a six-year rotation schedule in the field and greenhouse beds. The farm grows 200 varieties of produce year-round, both in the outdoor fields and gardens and in the 22,000-square-foot minimally heated greenhouse that capitalizes on each season’s available sunlight. Among the crops suitable for the local soil and climate are rare varieties such as celtuce, suiho, hakurei turnips, New England Eight-Row Flint seed corn and finale fennel. The farm uses no pesticides, herbicides or chemical additives, although compost is added to the soil for enrichment. The farm has a six-month composting cycle using manure, hay, and scraps from Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Stone Barns Center raises chickens, turkeys, geese, sheep, pigs and bees suited to the local ecosystem. The livestock farmers try to raise animals in a manner consistent with the animals' evolutionary instincts. The chickens, turkeys, sheep and geese are raised on pastures kept healthy and productive through carefully managed rotational grazing. The sheep and pigs’ bedding packs are regularly turned and composted. Farmers who raise animals in this fashion are frequently called "grass farmers" because there is so much emphasis on the health of the pastures. Strategies for maintaining the pastures include intensive paddock management so the grazed area has ample time to recover and provide a natural refuge for birds and other wildlife, essential for the maintenance of ecological balance.

New York City: Per Se (December 2009)

ONE OF THE BEST MEALS EVER!  We recommend vegetable-based tasting menu, priced at about $275 p/p (includes gratiuity and nonalcoholic beveverage), as well as the 9-course lunch or dinner also priced at $275 p/p (includes gratiuity and nonalcoholic beveverage). Chances are you'll only visit Thomas Keller's lauded
establishment to celebrate a once-in-a-lifetime occasion, say, an engagement or an organ transplant! This restaurant has held 3 Michelin stars since it opened. Per Se is a New American and French restaurant located on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center at 10 Columbus Circle (at West 60th Street and Broadway). In
2011, it was called the best restaurant in New York City by the New York Times. The chef is Eli Kaimeh. Per Se is currently the third most expensive restaurant in the world after Sublimotion and Urasawa with an average guest spending approximately $851. The owner of Per Se is Thomas Keller, who is also involved in the
restaurants French Laundry and Ad Hoc in Napa Valley; Bouchon in Napa Valley, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles; Bouchon Bakery in Napa Valley; and the Time Warner Center and Rockefeller Center in New York. Per Se opened in February 2004. Keller chose restaurant/hotel designer Adam Tihany to draw together subtle
references to The French Laundry and elements from both his and Keller's pasts; for example, the decorative blue door to the right of the main entrance is modeled after the blue door at The French Laundry.The restaurant features a salon, bar, and wine cellar. Like Keller's previous project, The French Laundry, Per Se
features two daily prix fixe menus, one of which is vegetarian. Menus frequently include up-charges for luxury ingredients such as foie gras and truffles. The private room can accommodate approximately 10 people, while the west room can accommodate 62 – the same number of seats as the French Laundry.

San Francisco: The French Laundry (May 2009)

My spouse and I dined at The French Laundry for lunch on a Friday in late May 2009. We were so lucky to get this reservation! At first, we were placed on a waitlist because of lack of availability, but several days before we departed for California, we received a call that a spot had opened up! This meal began a culinary quest that would last for years to come!

Chef Thomas Keller visited Yountville, California, in the early 1990s to find a space to fulfill a longtime culinary dream: to establish a destination for fine French cuisine in the Napa Valley. In his travels, he came across a rustic two-story stone cottage. As he walked into the restaurant’s quaint courtyard, he knew it was where he had been headed throughout his career. The French Laundry, a 1,600 square-foot structure constructed of river rock and timbers, was built as a saloon in 1900 by a Scottish stonemason. The building later served as a residence, and during the 1920s operated as a French steam laundry. In 1978, town mayor Don Schmitt and his wife Sally renovated the structure into a restaurant, which Keller then purchased in 1994. The French Laundry has received numerous honors and accolades. Most recently, the Michelin Guide San Francisco awarded The French Laundry their highest rating of three stars for the sixth year in a row, making Thomas Keller the only American-born chef to have two three-starred Michelin restaurants. In 2006, the James Beard Foundation gave The French Laundry the highly coveted “Outstanding Restaurant Award” and awarded Chef Thomas Keller “Outstanding Restaurateur” in 2007. The French Laundry is a member of French-based Relais and Chateaux, Relais Gourmands, and Traditions and Qualite; organizations recognized for their dedication to maintaining the highest international standards for hospitality and culinary excellence. Through The French Laundry’s menu, which changes daily, the restaurant commits itself to creating classic French cuisine with the finest quality ingredients, along with a similarly intense focus on impeccable guest service. In 2007, the Michelin Guide came to San Francisco and The French Laundry received its first 3-star rating, which it has maintained every year since 2007. Chef Keller received the "Outstanding Restaurateur" award from the James Beard Foundation. Since 2003, The French Laundry has remained on "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" "Best in the Americas”.

Chicago: Spiaggia (June 2003)

My spouse and I dined for lunch at Spiaggia in mid-June 2003 with several family members as part of a graduation luncheon celebration. With sweeping views of Lake Michigan, Spiaggia ushers in the next era of dining. Spirited Italian cuisine, prized wines, imaginative cocktails and a world-class model of hospitality define the next generation of this iconic restaurant experience. Spiaggia celebrates Sprezzatura, the Italian term for nonchalant elegance. Spiaggia sets the standard for creative Italian cuisine, earning four-star reviews, international praise and numerous awards, including a 2014 nomination for Outstanding Restaurant from the James Beard Foundation. With Chef-partner Tony Mantuano and Executive Chef Chris Marchino at the helm, Spiaggia takes guests on a culinary journey. It begins with a sense of Italy’s heritage and its finest ingredients, which then guide menus crafted with verve and imagination. Each visit is an occasion, marking a milestone or simply celebrating the everyday. The experience is always an evening to be remembered. As the only four-star Italian restaurant in Chicago, Spiaggia has become synonymous with celebrations. It was a vision realized 30 years ago when owner Larry Levy founded Spiaggia to be the crown jewel at 980 N. Michigan Ave. Over the years, Spiaggia has become a “must dine” destination for locals and visitors alike. The Hollywood elite, the biggest marquee musicians and the most renowned luminaries, from presidents to international leaders, have dined at Spiaggia. But it’s most indelible mark has been the founding premise—honoring the craft of modern Italian dining. The cuisine, innovative yet mindful of tradition, an equally splendid wine list and precise service have paved the way for numerous accolades and a dedicated following from one generation to the next. Celebrating its third decade, Spiaggia continues to evolve and modernize. The views of Lake Michigan still provide a setting unlike any other. In 2014, a complete redesign of the dining room and bar and the addition of the Spiaggia lounge united Spiaggia’s storied past with its modern present. James Beard Award winner Tony Mantuano is an influential culinary force, a chef who has been on the ground floor of defining true Italian cuisine in the United States. In addition to his role as chef-partner at Spiaggia, Mantuano is the chef-partner at River Roast, situated on the Chicago River; Bar Toma, an Italian neighborhood pizzeria and bar; Terzo Piano, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant at The Modern Wing of the Art Institute of Chicago; and he is the owner of Mangia Trattoria, a classic Italian restaurant in his hometown of Kenosha, Wisconsin. Mantuano is a recipient of the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef Midwest and the Chicago Tribune’s Good Eating Award, which honors achievement in the food and restaurant industry. Outside of the kitchen, Mantuano is often recognized for his participation on Season Two of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters. His other projects include cookbook collaborations with Cathy Mantuano, a wine expert and former manager of Spiaggia. The husband and wife team authored “The Spiaggia Cookbook” and “Wine Bar Food.”

Chicago: Topolobampo (August 2001)

My spouse and I dined for dinner at Topolobampo in mid-August 2001 with another couple. Topolobampo is located on Clark Street, just south of Illinois Avenue, in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. Rick and Deann Bayless opened Topolobampo in 1989, a few years after opening Frontera Grill. The two restaurants were designed to have the same front door, but that would be one of the few things they would share. If Frontera Grill rocks and claps, Topolobampo slinks. She is the quiet, sleek, classy sister. She’s also the more daring one. Topolobampo’s food has always been contemporary, and it becomes more so every year. Now almost 25 years old, our menu is divided not into appetizers and entrees but rather into categories like “soulful,” “vibrant” and “luxurious.” You can have all of those experiences, or you can choose just one. At Topolobampo, we don’t dictate what kind of experience you have, so long as you have a good one. Topolobampo’s dishes are organized under eight categories, such as “vibrant,” “soulful” and “enchanting.” Guests choose from these categories to create their own three-, five-, or seven-course tasting menus. A fourth option, The Perfect Seven, gives guests a seven-course meal chosen by the chefs.